Mike1711

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

An engine flush? No. Regularly changing your oil should be all that you need. Engine oil color is no way to diagnose a problem but it's a great way for an unscrupulous technician to scare you into paying for unneeded services. Oil gets dark with use... it's normal. If you're concerned, you can send an oil sample to be analyzed and get the true state of your engine.

BTW, you don't need to change your oil every 3,000 miles. It won't hurt to do so (except your wallet) but it's not necessary. The GM recommendation is to use the OIL CHANGE light on the dash which will go up to 7,500 miles depending on your driving conditions.

Brake flush? Yes, probably. Brake fluid absorbs a lot of moisture over time making it less effective. Manufacturer's recommendations vary widely but every three years is a good base to work with. Even with some longer recommendations, if you've gone six years since the last flush then you're due. However, I would recommend going someplace else that wasn't trying to sell you additional unnecessary services.

zachm89

iTrader: (14)

Brake flush probably couldn't hurt. Engine flush, not at all. I also would highly consider having someone else perform the brake service and not the shop that suggested the engine flush. Hell, I'd love to see what they'd say about the oil that comes out of my dmax after 5-7k miles

Mike1711

Hi thank you for reply back.

For the engine oil I wasnt aware that the oil can be changed upto 7500 miles. Does it usually notify on the dash with an oil change sign when an oil change is needed?

For the brake flush would it be okay if I stick to the old brakes and then just get the flush done? Does it make a difference having old brake pads but having the brake system flushed? Does it cause any issues?

Mike1711

Hi thank you so much for your reply back. I greatly appreciate it. Thank you

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Yes, there is an oil monitor system that calculates when an oil change is needed using various factors like mileage, drive cycles (short trips wear faster than longer ones), and driving temperatures. It doesn't actually test the oil, it just calculates intervals based on those factors and displays a CHANGE OIL light on the dash. If you drive in "severe" conditions like lots of dust which it can't detect then you should change your oil more frequently. The oil monitor system is reset at each oil change by turn on the ignition (don't start the car) and pressing the gas pedal all the way to the floor three times. The shop where you've been getting your oil changes has probably been doing that for you so you've never seen the CHANGE OIL light.

Yes, you can get the brake flush done without changing the pads although it's a good idea to at least check the pads when you do that. If they have life left in them then there is no need to replace them just to do a brake fluid flush.

coryforsenate

iTrader: (1)

Some oil manufacturers, like Amsoil and Mobil 1, claim their products can last over 10.000 miles, even 20,000 for the ultra premium oils they market. I'm sure they last a lot longer than a conventional oil but I'm little skeptical that the oil is working great up to 20.000 miles. I change my oil once during the summer and once during the winter. That's about 6,000 miles on the oil when I change it and I know I could go longer (I use Mobil 1 EP) but it's easy to remember to change it that way.

I second checking the pads while you're down there for the flush. They might be up for a new set. And if your brake fluid is black, it probably needs a change.

GMTECH4

98 camaro's do not have a oil life monitoring system, I agree with everyone do not waste money on engine flush, how ever a brake flush done properly will extend the life of a brake system. but the key is "done properly". if your brake pads are 3mm or more I would leave them alone.

Mike1711

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Good point! I was not aware of that difference in the '98 so I looked it up... you're absolutely right, the oil monitor system didn't appear until the '99 model.

The '98 owner's manual recommends changing your oil at 3,000 mile intervals for what they call the "short trip/city" maintenance schedule. That applies if most trips are less than 5-10 miles, most trips include a lot of idling (frequent stop-and-go) or most trips are in dusty area. Otherwise, the "long trip/highway" maintenance schedule calls for changing oil every 7,500 miles. So changing it every 6,000 - 7,000 miles should be fine as long as you don't fit into the short trip/city category. In any case, you should change it at least once per year regardless of mileage.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Brake flush - yes, I usually have that done every 5 years or so. Mas others mentioned brake fluid absorbs moisture.

Engine flush - no, wasted of money. A good synthetic oil like Mobile 1, Penzoil Ultra or Amsoil, etc will do an excellent job of keeping an engine clean.

Coolant flush - yes, this is often overlooked.

Power steering flush - yes, once to get all the nasty stuff out. Helps protect PS pump.

biketopia

iTrader: (5)

Another note to point out, there are vast differences in oil filter filtering and life expectation. You could use the most high dollar amsoil you want, but pair it with a **** $2.50 pro select filter from NAPA, better dump that oil at 3k miles. Need to use a quality filter, NAPA Gold (wix) or your choice of other quality filters (bosh, Mobil 1, Amsoil etc). I use napa golds & synthetic in my commuter cars and a Mobil 1 filter and rotella t6 in my d max. Change my oil at 5k, no sticker, no oil life monitor, 20k 25k 30k etc... Now I work in a shop and do all my own maintenance so it's just the cost of materials but its a good habit that's worked well for many years.

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

Any value to adding seafoam in crankcase for about 100 miles and then doing oil change?

gesto

I flush my engine at each oil change. After draining the oil I squirt some degreaser down the oil fill hole, let it sit and then flush it with my garden hose. Once the water runs clear out of the drain plug, I dry with compressed air and refill the oil. That way I know the crankcase is nice and clean. Engine makes a little racket but that's ok.

383z

iTrader: (2)

Heck no to an engine flush!
Take it somewhere else to change the brake fluid. To a good shop.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Never....ever....add any liquid to your engine oil......and then go drive the car. Only elt it idle for an engine flush. Adding liquids to your oil completely changes the viscosity of the oil and you are risking damaging your engine bearings if you drive it under high rpm's.

I did engine flushes at every oil change with my 436ci stroker, lasted 173,000 miles. When a piston got cocked in the cylinder on its way up a rod snapped, at 150mph during a race....I tore the engine down and it looked brand new inside, not a single spot of sludge or tarnishing. Every internal part looked new. Thats what clean oil does.

As far as running ANY oil beyond 3,000 miles....In my opinion is ridiculous. The only way to have a clean engine is to have VERY clean oil. NO WAY in hell is oil clean after 3,000-4,000 miles. Simply impossible. Why do you think it turns black......LOL
But lots of people do it.....just don't know why when an oil change cost so little........

Oh...and it went 173,000 miles with using off the shelf cheap *** Castrol GTX 20w50 its whole life of 12 years. ($2.99/qrt)....LOL.....and a Purolator filter. Absolutely no need for synthetics, they offer zero in extra protection compared to conventional oil.

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WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Because it's not the 1980s anymore. Engines and engine oils are orders of magnitude better than they were then and 3,000 mile oil changes are no longer necessary and frankly just throwing away money. I hope you're not still using floppy disks with your computer.

Now that is just wrong... synthetics offer many advantages over dino oil including better cleaning, more stable viscosity, and much higher shear resistance. It's not necessary to use synthetics because even modern conventional oils are easily capable of longer change intervals than in the past but synthetics offer even more. Denying that is like saying the earth is flat - it simply doesn't match the science.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I'm just going by the hundreds of people I know (or have known) over the past 15 years or so.....they all use synthetic oils. Nobody's stroker engine has ever done what mine did....actually I've never heard of anyone cracking 100,000 without being in serious need of a rebuild.

I do not believe in synthetic oils. I just believe in clean oil. And me, changing cheap *** conventional oil costs $20.00 a change. In the long run, the synthetic oil users will spend more money than me and get absolutely nothing more out of it. Longevity of an engine is the test of how well the oil worked out during its life.

If my current 390ci goes 150,000......its pretty much a closed case.

EDIT: And I have the best memory sticks money can buy.....LOL

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WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

You are certainly entitled to your beliefs even if they don't match with the facts. But your numbers are off... taking into account only the cost of the oil (assuming filter and labor cost/time is the same) then you are spending $20 every 3,000 miles while someone using synthetics would spend about $30 every 6,000 miles. For an average 12,000 mile year, you spend $80 while the synthetic user spent only $60. And you did four changes while they did only two... twice the labor costs and twice the number of filters. Even if you do your own oil changes, how much is your time worth? So using synthetics provides better protection as well as saving time and money.

It's your money and time to spend if it makes you feel more comfortable with your maintenance but making a general recommendation for others to avoid the advances in technology is not particularly helpful. And to get to the real heart of the matter... the color of the oil has very little to do with its effectiveness as a lubricant or cleaning agent. Thousands of tests have proven that.

biketopia

iTrader: (5)

Boom-Science!