Skip White LT1 383 Kit?
09-20-2018, 08:18 AM
#1
Staging Lane
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Skip White LT1 383 Kit? Anyone have any experience with this kit? The cast crank concerns me a little, but I’ve read good reviews on them. Looking for something that will live at 6400 rpm and handle about 425 hp at the wheels.
09-20-2018, 09:31 AM
#6
On The Tree
09-20-2018, 09:36 AM
#8
On The Tree
09-20-2018, 09:41 AM
#9
Stock crank is super strong but can't be used for a 383 stroker.
The only cast crank i would trust at 425rw is the scat 9000 series.
But like was stated, a 4340 forged crank is extra insurance. Esp if you plan on launching it hard at the dragstrip or one day adding forced induction.
The only cast crank i would trust at 425rw is the scat 9000 series.
But like was stated, a 4340 forged crank is extra insurance. Esp if you plan on launching it hard at the dragstrip or one day adding forced induction.
09-20-2018, 09:50 AM
#10
On The Tree
09-20-2018, 10:32 AM
#11
A scat 9000 cast crank can be trusted to about 500fwhp. This is what i have in my 383 right now. I have forged "I" beam rods, hyper pistons and a 4 bolt main with arp bolts.
Golen engines has a good reputation and they trust the scat 9000 crank in their 500hp engines. 550hp and above, and or rpms over 6500 it is rec to go forged.
Im at this crossroads myself. Im looking to make 525-550fwhp NA with a bigger cam and possibly spray a 150 shot. I know its time for a forged crank and pistons now.
Don't even look at eagle cast cranks. They have a bad rap for breaking. I wouldn't put one in my motor for free.
But if you are just doing a mild 383 that isn't going to be abused and raced constantly the scat 9000 is perfectly fine.
Golen engines has a good reputation and they trust the scat 9000 crank in their 500hp engines. 550hp and above, and or rpms over 6500 it is rec to go forged.
Im at this crossroads myself. Im looking to make 525-550fwhp NA with a bigger cam and possibly spray a 150 shot. I know its time for a forged crank and pistons now.
Don't even look at eagle cast cranks. They have a bad rap for breaking. I wouldn't put one in my motor for free.
But if you are just doing a mild 383 that isn't going to be abused and raced constantly the scat 9000 is perfectly fine.
Last edited by 350 groundpounder; 09-20-2018 at 10:35 AM. Reason: Grammar
09-20-2018, 10:45 AM
#12
425rwhp in a stick car is about 480fwhp
425rwhp in an auto car is about 510fwhp
imo, that’s getting close to the edge.....forged is just extra reassurance and if your going to the work and cost of stroking, spend the extra.
425rwhp in an auto car is about 510fwhp
imo, that’s getting close to the edge.....forged is just extra reassurance and if your going to the work and cost of stroking, spend the extra.
09-20-2018, 11:04 AM
#13
Staging Lane
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I’m running a t56. The motor I’m rebuilding was in my 95 z28. With 4.10 gears, I was launching at 5500 and shifting at 6000. Ran a best of 12.60 at 111 mph with LE2 heads and cam package. The Skip White kit comes with a Scat 9000 cast crank. They offer a forged crank upgrade for $460. I was planning on using the two bolt mains with ARP studs. I’ve read a few articles that state the two bolt mains will handle a good amount of power.
09-20-2018, 11:15 AM
#14
On The Tree
that is what i have gleaned as well from the two bolt. as long as youre not launching it at every stop light then it should be fine with ARP studs. but im kinda with Parmy on this. im already in there, puttin all this effort, id just pay the $460 for bulletproofing.
09-20-2018, 11:24 AM
#15
Me personally, I’d also add splayed 4 bolt main caps....it all boils down to added strength....you never know when you’ll get bored of the power level you have and decide to up your game....I’d rather over build than under build....build it once, build it right!
09-20-2018, 12:17 PM
#19
Staging Lane
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True on the crank. I’m going to price out the parts tonight. The shop I talked to about the block machine work doesn’t align hone main bearing bores. I’ll have to see what else is available locally.
09-20-2018, 01:16 PM
#20
That's why the golen shortblock is a great deal, they prep the block correctly, torque plate hone, align bore the mains, and 4 bolt splayed billet caps. And they have a ton of experience with lt1s.
I would pay the extra money for the 4340 crank option though.
Is there price with shipping included?
I would pay the extra money for the 4340 crank option though.
Is there price with shipping included?