bunkerbuster

Guys,

I need to know how to:
1. Confirm on how to check spacing on torque converter to flex plate in my car.
2. Placing shims between TQ converter and flex plate (while it is still inside the car)

I think for #1, all i need to do is to take the starter loose to remove TQ converter bolts and use 4 feet worth of extensions (see pics attached). Then, I would check using a drill bit.
For #2 if i need to shim, how the heck would i do that inside the car? Without the luxury of being able to remove the bottom of the bell housing like on some other transmissions, is it even possible?

The only way I could think to do it is:
1. to use the inspection hole that gives a clear view of the mating of the TQ converter and flex plate to insert a washer
2. somehow hope that the flex plate and converter holds on to the washer while i rotate it into view to insert the bolt (which would be in front of where the starter is mounted, the only place you can reach it with 4 ft of extensions)

I would really like to avoid taking motor and/or trans out of the car. The picture attached will make it obvious why (and to anyone who has done this in a 4th gen f body before)

Pictures are located here, since they are too large to attach.
https://imgur.com/a/wYEFVYK

MaroonMonsterLS1

Converter clearance on an LS car with 4l60e is very easy.
remove starter. Use the inspection cover and pry bar to smartly (read: don't screw up the starter teeth on the flexplate) get a flexplate bolt into view

Remove all 3 bolts

slide converter all the way into the trans

use a drill bit to check the distance from the pad to the flexplate. Easiest to check from down in the inspection cover hole.

If clearance is 1/8 (ideally) then you are good to go. Just bolt it back up. 1/16 to 3/16 is typically deemed acceptable but I really like to hit that 1/8 target.

Installing shims is tougher. You can use some vaseline or wheel bearing grease to "stick" your shim to the converter pad through the inspection hole. Just finger start all 3 bolts before tightening any of them.

Most manufacturers of quality converters (PTC, Circle D, FTI, etc etc) are usually very very close to 1/8 out of the box

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

dont forget to disconnect the batt terminals.....ask me how i know......and your A/C line is rubbing the sway bar.....bend it up

bunkerbuster

Yes! Great idea, I'll give it a shot with the grease. Don't know why I didn't think of that since I used the same trick already to hold a bolt in a socket. You gotta have a lot of tricks up your sleeves to be effective on a 4th gen f body. A lot of tight spaces and stuff that has hard to get to.

My converter is a PTC, so hopefully I don't have to do anything. I wonder, instead of taking loose the bolts, can I measure from the engine mating surface of the trans to the converter? I read some where 1.125" is what you should get for this when installing the converter for the first time. Does it still hold true when coupled to the flex plate?

bunkerbuster

Yes sir. I have already replaced the line as well as went to umi suspension which was not intended to be the solution for the problem, but ended up fixing it by having different geometry for some reason. It evacuated my compressor's oil.

Firebirdmuscle

iTrader: (16)

My convertor was from ptc also and I had to add 3 shins to each bolt to get my spacing right and it was a mf on this 60e. I used a extension magnet and used super glue to hold the 3 shims together.

Not sure why my my convertor was so far off. I told lane the flexplate I was using which is from tci. It was still way off. Seems like it was made for a dished flexplate but mine is flat

mrvedit

I also have had to add 3 shims to each bolt. My trick was to wrap masking tape around the circumference of the shims, and then cut off the extra tape with a box cutter. For shims I just used grade 8 washers after selecting the best ones using a micrometer.