What Front wheel bearing assembly is best?
10-22-2018, 10:40 PM
#1
What Front wheel bearing assembly is best? So what Brand front wheel bearing assembly is best? Timken seems to be a popular choice from the brief searches I've done. 2002 Camaro.
When I turn the steering wheel to change lanes to the right I don’t hear noise but going straight and going to the left I feel all kinds of vibration, I think it’s the passenger side wheel bearing.
Saw a review on the Moog version on an auto parts store who wrote: "You'll also know that your hubs are worn if, after making a turn or cornering aggressively, your brake pedal is very soft or goes to the floor. This is "pad knockback" from a wobbly hub that presses your brake pads back into the calipers. Time for new hubs!" This is a new one on me.
When I turn the steering wheel to change lanes to the right I don’t hear noise but going straight and going to the left I feel all kinds of vibration, I think it’s the passenger side wheel bearing.
Saw a review on the Moog version on an auto parts store who wrote: "You'll also know that your hubs are worn if, after making a turn or cornering aggressively, your brake pedal is very soft or goes to the floor. This is "pad knockback" from a wobbly hub that presses your brake pads back into the calipers. Time for new hubs!" This is a new one on me.
Last edited by libertyforall1776; 10-22-2018 at 10:52 PM.
10-23-2018, 07:01 AM
#2
If you take the wheel and brake off, you can turn the hub by hand and manipulate it and tell. A good hub is smooth and a little hard to turn. A loose or freely spinning hub will be bad. By hand, you can also feel grinding of bad bearings inside. Bad bearings also make a variety of odd noises - or none at all.
Our bearings generally start to go at 70-80K miles, so if you have that distance or more on them, you probably don't have much to loose by changing them out.
Only a few companies make bearings. Moog isn't one. (They would use someone else's bearings.) Timken, SKF, NSK, or NTN are the quality brands. If you get a hub from one of those companies, you can be reasonably certain that the bearings inside are quality.
Our bearings generally start to go at 70-80K miles, so if you have that distance or more on them, you probably don't have much to loose by changing them out.
Only a few companies make bearings. Moog isn't one. (They would use someone else's bearings.) Timken, SKF, NSK, or NTN are the quality brands. If you get a hub from one of those companies, you can be reasonably certain that the bearings inside are quality.
10-24-2018, 11:22 AM
#5
The best stock style hubs seem to be the OEM ones. Aftermarket stock style ones just don't seem to hold up. The best aftermarket one period would be the Hoosier pieces (which I believe they are out of business and may not be available anymore) or go with the Strano adapters (credit due to Jim on FRRAX forum) and get a X-Tracker hubs.
10-24-2018, 11:25 AM
#6
The Strano SKF-X-tracker does have ABS. If you road race, track day, or AX, you will want these sooner or later (may as well get them sooner). But if only street driving or drag, parts store units are probably OK for you, given the prices of the Strano package.
10-24-2018, 01:26 PM
#7
TECH Enthusiast
Detroit Speed offers xtracker hubs and adapter brackets with abs connectors for $1000
https://www.google.com/search?source...60.IjU_CiPVAZ4
https://www.google.com/search?source...60.IjU_CiPVAZ4
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10-24-2018, 03:39 PM
#8
What is best depends on what the application is. I needed something that would pass tech with my 17x7 race stars (RCE-92-770247DP 4.0" backspacing) so I needed longer studs. I went with:
TIMKEN 513090 - $215 for the pair
3" long 1/2x20 studs 873-A1026 - $21.99
Cost of local machine shop to tap and screw them in: $50
TIMKEN 513090 - $215 for the pair
3" long 1/2x20 studs 873-A1026 - $21.99
Cost of local machine shop to tap and screw them in: $50
10-24-2018, 08:45 PM
#10
Just search for wheel hub 513090, Timken. Yes GM stopped making them. There's a myth going around about "used hubs" being seasoned in or something but I think that's BS so don't fall for that. Just go to Advance Auto or whatever you have in your area get the Timken, SKF, etc. If you need longer studs ARP 100-7708. Or there are others if you need longer such as 5.7Stroker said.
10-25-2018, 09:44 AM
#11
OP, it looks from your sig pic that you do some track stuff, so just be careful in what hub you go with. I know the x-tracker/adapter setup is expensive, but the piece of mind is well worth it to some.
Here is a good thread if you get a chance: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....8&postcount=40
Here is a good thread if you get a chance: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....8&postcount=40
10-25-2018, 06:35 PM
#12
I had a hub fail on track (race track not auto-x; sheared right off just like the pic you linked to) and thankfully it was at low speed. It was a not good day, but.... I got a replacement and made it home without a lot of damage. I totally recommend the X-Tracker hub + adapter setup. 2 years of hard AX on 315 R-comps and still tight as the first day.
10-25-2018, 11:50 PM
#13
If you take the wheel and brake off, you can turn the hub by hand and manipulate it and tell. A good hub is smooth and a little hard to turn. A loose or freely spinning hub will be bad. By hand, you can also feel grinding of bad bearings inside. Bad bearings also make a variety of odd noises - or none at all.
Our bearings generally start to go at 70-80K miles, so if you have that distance or more on them, you probably don't have much to loose by changing them out.
Only a few companies make bearings. Moog isn't one. (They would use someone else's bearings.) Timken, SKF, NSK, or NTN are the quality brands. If you get a hub from one of those companies, you can be reasonably certain that the bearings inside are quality.
Our bearings generally start to go at 70-80K miles, so if you have that distance or more on them, you probably don't have much to loose by changing them out.
Only a few companies make bearings. Moog isn't one. (They would use someone else's bearings.) Timken, SKF, NSK, or NTN are the quality brands. If you get a hub from one of those companies, you can be reasonably certain that the bearings inside are quality.
Do worn upper/lower control arm bearings have any affect on bearing longevity?
I would assume Moog would use quality bearings, as per their reputation? Wonder who's they use if they don't make roll their own...
10-26-2018, 06:10 AM
#14
10-26-2018, 12:51 PM
#15
TECH Enthusiast
OP, it looks from your sig pic that you do some track stuff, so just be careful in what hub you go with. I know the x-tracker/adapter setup is expensive, but the piece of mind is well worth it to some.
Here is a good thread if you get a chance: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....8&postcount=40
Here is a good thread if you get a chance: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....8&postcount=40
I had a hub fail on track (race track not auto-x; sheared right off just like the pic you linked to) and thankfully it was at low speed. It was a not good day, but.... I got a replacement and made it home without a lot of damage. I totally recommend the X-Tracker hub + adapter setup. 2 years of hard AX on 315 R-comps and still tight as the first day.
Detroit Speed's xtracker hubs and adapter brackets with abs connectors for $1000 is the best price you'll find
https://www.google.com/search?source...60.IjU_CiPVAZ4
10-28-2018, 10:13 PM
#16
The dynamics of the part in the air (being spun by hand) and sitting on the ground, loaded with 800 lbs is different. (They will be a little tight without load on them.) We can't "feel" my bearings with this load on them, but I expect that if we could, they would move more freely. (A freely spinning bearing, like a lazy susan in your kitchen cabinets, would turn into a bag of marbles when the thing deforms under load.)
I would expect any suspension component not in a factory condition will lead to secondary wear. I'm not sure of the degree and criticality, though. (My guess would be that it would just slowly erode lifespan since it would introduce additional net movement of the suspension.)
Probably, but we don't know. Is saving a few dollars worth knowing the single-point-of-failure-part is indeed a quality part?
I would expect any suspension component not in a factory condition will lead to secondary wear. I'm not sure of the degree and criticality, though. (My guess would be that it would just slowly erode lifespan since it would introduce additional net movement of the suspension.)
Probably, but we don't know. Is saving a few dollars worth knowing the single-point-of-failure-part is indeed a quality part?
Thanks, I realized the freely spinning bearing on the driver side are the main problem, passenger had some minor noise too like a ticking of sorts with brakes & rotor off and just the wheel on. When I would turn the steering wheel to change lanes to the right I don’t hear noise but going straight and going to the left I feel all kinds of vibration, I therefore thought it was the passenger side wheel bearing. But in fact the really bad one is the driver side, waiting for another to arrive. *rolls eyes*
Went with Moog, 3 yr warranty and it's an RS daily driver.
Moog vs. old bearing assembly.
10-29-2018, 08:23 PM
#18
Update: Driver side required large sledge-hammer wacks to dislodge the assembly, definitely never replaced before. Now that both fronts are replaced, all is nice and quiet driving again! Except for the exhaust sitting on the mid-car cross member due to welding in an aftermarket cat replacement of the factory orignal by a shop who did not do the job right. *Grrrr* Too many amateurs at most shops, really tired of having to bird eye everything.
Last edited by libertyforall1776; 11-03-2018 at 12:51 PM.
01-22-2019, 06:37 AM
#19
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01-22-2019, 07:56 AM
#20
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So what Brand front wheel bearing assembly is best? Timken seems to be a popular choice from the brief searches I've done. 2002 Camaro.
When I turn the steering wheel to change lanes to the right I don’t hear noise but going straight and going to the left I feel all kinds of vibration, I think it’s the passenger side wheel bearing.
Saw a review on the Moog version on an auto parts store who wrote: "You'll also know that your hubs are worn if, after making a turn or cornering aggressively, your brake pedal is very soft or goes to the floor. This is "pad knockback" from a wobbly hub that presses your brake pads back into the calipers. Time for new hubs!" This is a new one on me.
When I turn the steering wheel to change lanes to the right I don’t hear noise but going straight and going to the left I feel all kinds of vibration, I think it’s the passenger side wheel bearing.
Saw a review on the Moog version on an auto parts store who wrote: "You'll also know that your hubs are worn if, after making a turn or cornering aggressively, your brake pedal is very soft or goes to the floor. This is "pad knockback" from a wobbly hub that presses your brake pads back into the calipers. Time for new hubs!" This is a new one on me.
