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1000 horsepower in a 90 hp bag

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Old 11-18-2018, 11:05 AM
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Default 1000 horsepower in a 90 hp bag

Alright so I figured I'd start a build thead before I got too far ahead of myself in this project. I bought a 1977 Toyota Corona off a Facebook page sight unseen while I was bored at work. It had the perfect look I wanted that's really hard to come by in Canada. Things don't patina here, they rust to pieces. But this one has almost zero rust, just a bunch of lost paint. The guy I bought it from picked it up from an older lady and apparently it sat in her driveway for 26 years. It's only got 90,000 miles on it. The door cards have the arc of the sun faded into them haha. But time for some pictures.










Old 11-18-2018, 11:12 AM
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I am in love...carry on....carry on...

Andrew
Old 11-18-2018, 11:36 AM
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that thing looks very clean. i love me a good wagon. i dont know much about the 20r motors but the pickup 22r and 22re are great motors. any plans for the body, bumpers? that patina is great.
Old 11-18-2018, 02:32 PM
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Perfect wheels for it. I can even overlook the extra pair of doors. LOL
Where is the car originally from?

Ken
Old 11-18-2018, 04:24 PM
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GREAT score. WHen does the modify begin?
Old 11-18-2018, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Kenova
Perfect wheels for it. I can even overlook the extra pair of doors. LOL
Where is the car originally from?

Ken
Im not sure, I think he bought it locally in fort macmurray AB, and then he brought it down to Edmonton for me

Originally Posted by Jimbo1367
GREAT score. WHen does the modify begin?
it already has lol it currently has an ls and six speed sitting in it, I have to catch up with posting here.



Originally Posted by jeffs55chevy
that thing looks very clean. i love me a good wagon. i dont know much about the 20r motors but the pickup 22r and 22re are great motors. any plans for the body, bumpers? that patina is great.
the body will be left alone, I'll just be waxing and oiling it to maintain the patina. I was thinking about clear coating it but it would get too shiny. I'm going to build a rear for it, not sure how exactly yet, I think tubing wouldn't fit the "look" so I might try and make something else work.

Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
I am in love...carry on....carry on...

Andrew
haha I fell in love with it pretty quick too. It's an awesome little car
Old 11-18-2018, 08:46 PM
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MOAR!!!

Andrew
Old 11-18-2018, 08:47 PM
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So im building the car to run on drag week, and I'm shooting for a single digit pass at all five tracks. The plan is a forged rod and piston l33 block I have, using a stock crank and 243's. Single turbo, either a precision 76/75 or an s476r, and a water to air intercooler. I'll be using a lot of parts from my supra I built a few years ago, including a t56 magnum, ACT twin disc clutch, Megasquirt gold box, accessories, and probably a few other odds and ends. The rear will be a shortened 8.8 or 9" mounted on the stock leafs, and I'll be fabricating some sort of traction bar setup. It looks like I'll be able to clear a 10 wide slick without modifying the wheel tubs.

The entire point of the car will be a fast, reliable old car to take on road trips, go camping, and some racing in between. I'm going to try and make it as usable and street friendly as possible

this is after I got it home and cleaned up a bit unfortunate it didn't come with the rims in the pictures from before, but it's getting converted to 5 lug anyways so they wouldn't have done me much good lol


Forsize reference, this is the s480 off my Silverado lol this is going to be a tight fit


These are 26x10 slicks off my supra, I think with some fender rolling they'll clear. They'll sit about an 1" higher than the picture


Stock 90hp bullet coming out


From right to left. Stock 3 speed auto out of the car, stock 5 speed that came with it, and t56 magnum goodness


And here it is with an Ls sitting in it! I just threw a block in there to see what it would look like, but it got me excited lol

Old 11-18-2018, 10:55 PM
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That sure looks like fun! How much does it weight?
Old 11-18-2018, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ForceFedC5
That sure looks like fun! How much does it weight?
thats the best part, 2567lbs with no driver
Old 11-19-2018, 09:31 AM
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Wow, that's insane! I love it
Old 11-19-2018, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Vorteccrack


thats the best part, 2567lbs with no driver
Wow! Awesome! Need to put my vette on a diet...
Old 11-19-2018, 03:52 PM
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Made some progress, I got the trans in, driveline angle is about 3* down, which is perfect









it's going to be a tight fit, but that's it sitting in its final resting place. The white box is a lock up I made of the water to air intercooler I want to run. The ls6 intake also isn't here to stay, just threw it on there to see what it would look like.





Old 11-19-2018, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Vorteccrack


thats the best part, 2567lbs with no driver
What a fat pig...... lol, jk man. Awesome build look forward to seeing this one.
Old 11-20-2018, 11:21 AM
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This is so sweet!
Old 11-20-2018, 11:57 AM
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So, onto clearance issues. (There's a few lol) the first of which is the heater core lines. You can see them behind both heads in this picture.


There's a chance I could make them work, but that's hacky and the factory heater box is a monster. So I ordered a vintage air heater only unit (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-506101/), that takes up much less space and weighs less than just the blower motor, let alone the rest of the stock heater core. This way the lines can come out in a much cleaner way. I was thinking around here





I'm going to weld a bulkhead plate up that's -10 on the engine bay side and female 1/2 npt on the other. I know AN Is overkill for heater core lines but I have a bunch of -10 stuff leftover from my last car, so why not. This next shot is from the inside of the car, you can see on the right the wiring harness going through the fire wall, so the bulkhead will be just to the left of that. And then the stock giant heater core that's getting trashed




Old 11-20-2018, 01:22 PM
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Took a similar approach on my swap. Early 80's Euro A/C generally struggles in the hot/humid SE, so when I pulled the 5.0L Ford out and put in the LS3, I also removed the OEM HVAC set up and put a universal Classic Auto Air system in. Allowed me to easily route heater hoses from OEM driver's side to the passenger side where they originate/terminate. A/C on that side too - where the compressor is. Much better all around.
Old 11-22-2018, 09:26 AM
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Vortec', is the Toyota a uni-body?

I bought my EX a Datsun B210 wagon that was probably constructed similar to the Toyota but I don't remember the details, it's been 20 years.
Old 11-22-2018, 09:48 AM
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Definitely unibody....
Old 11-28-2018, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 243
Vortec', is the Toyota a uni-body?

I bought my EX a Datsun B210 wagon that was probably constructed similar to the Toyota but I don't remember the details, it's been 20 years.
Originally Posted by Michael Yount
Definitely unibody....
Its a unibody, it's incredibly simple underneath lol

Originally Posted by Michael Yount
Took a similar approach on my swap. Early 80's Euro A/C generally struggles in the hot/humid SE, so when I pulled the 5.0L Ford out and put in the LS3, I also removed the OEM HVAC set up and put a universal Classic Auto Air system in. Allowed me to easily route heater hoses from OEM driver's side to the passenger side where they originate/terminate. A/C on that side too - where the compressor is. Much better all around.
Did you use rubber hose behind the dash? That seems to be what most people do


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