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Now that I finally got my '91 Fox coupe, it's time to get serious and figure out what/how I want to do this swap. My plan is a serious street car to be driven on a regular basis. Not a specific drag car. More of a daily driver.
Why do I want an aftermarket K member? It's got to be more than weight savings, right? I've researched this and the weight saving isn't all that much. I know that certain K members will allow me to use an F body oil pan which is less expensive than say the Holley part# 302-3 that Toddoky talks about in this long, very informative thread:
I know that there may be some suspension geometry improvements as well.
I've also read that some people have complained about noise with their aftermarket K members . I want my car to not have any clunking, etc. I really don't see how an aftermarket K member could cause these sounds but then again, I have no experience with aftermarket Ks.
The F-body oil pan will work with the AJE K-member depending on the engine position. The fore/aft engine location and installed crankshaft height you use will determine how well your transmission fits in the tunnel and what amount of work will be required by you to get it installed and end up with desirable U-joint operating angles. You didn't mention what transmission you are planning to use and I can give you more insight of what to expect if you do.
Spend the money and buy a Maximum Motor sports front end package and then use the Holley install kit for Fox body's .you'll be happy you did in the end.
Most of the noise I have ever created with aftermarket front end stuff came from the coil over strut arrangement. I like to street drive too and I now keep my factory location springs and struts separate. I think this answers your question.
I'll second what 79LS1FOX said. I've had a Maximum Motorsports K member, control arms and coil overs on my Fox for over 10 years. It transformed the handling of the car and doesn't make any noise. Some of the aftermarket K's are lighter and easier to fit oil pans and headers because they use smaller diameter tubing. IMO, the MM K is the strongest on the market and will stand up to bad roads and pot holes as well as the stock Ford K. Spend the extra money if you can and you won't be disappointed.
The F-body oil pan will work with the AJE K-member depending on the engine position. The fore/aft engine location and installed crankshaft height you use will determine how well your transmission fits in the tunnel and what amount of work will be required by you to get it installed and end up with desirable U-joint operating angles. You didn't mention what transmission you are planning to use and I can give you more insight of what to expect if you do.
Todd, I'm planning on using some form of the T56 6-speed. I love the one in my '02 WS6. I was told today by a local customization/fabrication shop that the 6-sp can be a very tight fit in the stock, Fox tunnel. Tight as in cutting required. Hopefully this isn't true!
Most of the noise I have ever created with aftermarket front end stuff came from the coil over strut arrangement. I like to street drive too and I now keep my factory location springs and struts separate. I think this answers your question.
Yes! That's what I read. The coil overs cause the noise. Don't most aftermarket K members require coil overs? I know that at least one does not. I don't remember which, though.
I'll second what 79LS1FOX said. I've had a Maximum Motorsports K member, control arms and coil overs on my Fox for over 10 years. It transformed the handling of the car and doesn't make any noise. Some of the aftermarket K's are lighter and easier to fit oil pans and headers because they use smaller diameter tubing. IMO, the MM K is the strongest on the market and will stand up to bad roads and pot holes as well as the stock Ford K. Spend the extra money if you can and you won't be disappointed.
I've read nothing but good stuff about the MM K member!
No noise with your coil over assembly. Hmm. I wonder why some peoples coil overs are noisy and others aren't?
I could be a lot of things, coil overs have different parts that could make noise if they didn't fit well. Again, it pays to buy quality stuff the first time. After having coil overs on my car on all 4 corners, I would NEVER go back to a stock setup.
Todd, I'm planning on using some form of the T56 6-speed. I love the one in my '02 WS6. I was told today by a local customization/fabrication shop that the 6-sp can be a very tight fit in the stock, Fox tunnel. Tight as in cutting required. Hopefully this isn't true!
If you use the Hooker Blackheart Fox Body LS swap components to mount your engine/T56 transmission, you will only be required to trim some extraneous production locating tabs off of the right side of the transmission case and cut a 3/4" deep notch in the rear edge of the factory tunnel shifter hole. This reduced effort is due to the Hooker mounting components locating the engine/transmission mating plane in the stock SB Ford fore/aft location and the engine center line in the stock offset position also.
Last edited by Toddoky; 12-05-2018 at 10:04 AM.
Reason: attach image
If you use the Hooker Blackheart Fox Body LS swap components to mount your engine/T56 transmission, you will only be required to trim some extraneous production locating tabs off of the right side of the transmission case and cut a 3/4" deep notch in the rear edge of the factory tunnel shifter hole. This reduced effort is due to the Hooker mounting components locating the engine/transmission mating plane in the stock SB Ford fore/aft location and the engine center line in the stock offset position also.
Yes, Todd, I'm planning on using the Hooker Blackeart LS swap components. It looks like I would need LS Engine Mount Brackets, PART# 71221013HKR if I keep my stock K or if I buy the MM K member.
A couple of pictures of my 1991 4-cyl coupe. The previous owner said that it was painted about 2 years ago so it looks fair. I'm going to have the car painted again after my mechanical work. I want it to look real good not just fair.
Yes, those would be the correct engine brackets to use with the stock OE or Maximum Motorsports MMKM-1 K-members. You will have to use the Holley 302-3 oil pan in order to clear the steering rack, the F-Body pan will not work.That is a real nice car to base a swap project on.
Todd, thank you for the confirmation on the engine brackets with the stock or MM K member. Yes, I'll be sure to use the 302-3 oil pan with either of those K members.
Thanks also for the good words on my "blank canvas!" I took the car to two different paint and body shops yesterday and they both said that it was a solid car with no major accidents. The underside is almost completely undamaged. Just one area right behind the driver's side front tire where someone misplaced a jack under the pinch weld. The weld is still in good shape it;s just folded over. No "Dukes of Hazzard" jumps have been done with this car!
Unfortunately, there is some left side quarter panel damage that was shoddily repaired:
I'm really angry at myself that I didn't catch this before I bought the car . One of the things that I wanted to avoid was quarter panel damage. I passed on previous coupes with QP damage and this on slipped by me. The car was dirty and it was raining when I first went to look at the car. Not only that, but I was focused on the front of the driver's door where it doesn't line up well with the front fender. The paint and body shops said that the front fender wasn't adjusted properly after it was reinstalled during it's paint job. I still wish I would've caught the quarter panel damage!
Todd, thank you for the confirmation on the engine brackets with the stock or MM K member. Yes, I'll be sure to use the 302-3 oil pan with either of those K members.
Thanks also for the good words on my "blank canvas!" I took the car to two different paint and body shops yesterday and they both said that it was a solid car with no major accidents. The underside is almost completely undamaged. Just one area right behind the driver's side front tire where someone misplaced a jack under the pinch weld. The weld is still in good shape it;s just folded over. No "Dukes of Hazzard" jumps have been done with this car!
Unfortunately, there is some left side quarter panel damage that was shoddily repaired:
I'm really angry at myself that I didn't catch this before I bought the car . One of the things that I wanted to avoid was quarter panel damage. I passed on previous coupes with QP damage and this on slipped by me. The car was dirty and it was raining when I first went to look at the car. Not only that, but I was focused on the front of the driver's door where it doesn't line up well with the front fender. The paint and body shops said that the front fender wasn't adjusted properly after it was reinstalled during it's paint job. I still wish I would've caught the quarter panel damage!
I wouldn’t worry too much about that quarter panel as long as you get it repaired correctly and get some Fluid Film or other protectant applied on the back side of the repair it will never give you problems.
Both of the paint shops that I took the car to on 4 December weren't too concerned about it. They won't really know until they remove that poor Bondo work and see the metal underneath. I'm pretty confident that it's not all that bad and with proper metal work, it'll turn out great.
Most guys use AJE k-member and AJE trans crossmember......now your motor and trans will sit at the right angle......i have used 3.......with f-body oil pan with Speed engineering conversion 1 7/8 long tube headers.....
AJE gives you the option to buy spring perches for the k-member so you can use your stock springs and struts...
12-04-2018, 07:58 AM
Aftermarket K member for my Fox swap? 
. I want my car to not have any clunking, etc. I really don't see how an aftermarket K member could cause these sounds but then again, I have no experience with aftermarket Ks. 
. One of the things that I wanted to avoid was quarter panel damage. I passed on previous coupes with QP damage and this on slipped by me. The car was dirty and it was raining when I first went to look at the car. Not only that, but I was focused on the front of the driver's door where it doesn't line up well with the front fender. The paint and body shops said that the front fender wasn't adjusted properly after it was reinstalled during it's paint job. I still wish I would've caught the quarter panel damage!
