Pbarby

Current setup: 01 WS6, M6 (tranzilla), moser 9” 3:75 wavetrac, full BMR/UMI/QA1 suspension/shocks, 1/78” o/s LT headers, 3” true duals xpipe over axels w/ 4 resonators.

Last month, I posted on Gen4 internals (help me spec a darton 427) looking for 600rwhp. I realized 5-550rwhp is plenty for the 35-40% difference from the original goal. Thanks to those who provided input and suggestions within the post and with PMs.

Last week I committed to a Thompson Motorsports LS3 416 Level 3 stroker w/ ported LS9 heads, Wiesco pistons, compstar rods/crank, ARP, 11.4:1 target CR and, imo, a massive cam. Kyle was very nice and knowledge on the phone…he also saved me from overspending on unnecessary parts which I’m appreciative. The savings is making me consider having TMS dyno/break-in the motor...just to be sure it’s done right. Also purchased his LS1 to LS2(3) conversion kit and factory style LS1 crank pulley.

To keep my mind off the build, I’m focusing on everything I need around the motor. I need to order most of these parts within the next week (took time of work to get started and may need to send items to TMS for break-in/dyno).

From my LS1
-Accessory drive
-Sensors
-Oilpan, pick-up, valve covers
-MM Catch Can

Remaining:
-NW92 Throttle body (spend inc)
-Delphi AF10043 MAF, Amazon $90
-FTP 90MM+ lid, $170
-Bellows(2) Siliconeintakes.com $35
-AC Delco water pump (wiit) $120
-Power steering pump..squeeking (wiit) $80-150
-Rack and pinion…leaking (wiit) Summit, $165
-LS3 Intake, new ebay $250
-LS3 fuel rail, used ebay $90
-LS3 to LS1 injector spacer (re-using my newer ractronics 42lb hi-imp injectors) $20
-Walbro 450 $130
-Alloboltz GM LS Stainless Steel engine bolt kit, Amazon $55
-Gaskets

Questions:
-Anything missing, wrong or overkill above?
-Fuel, will I need a regulator and will my factory style filter be enough (I saw the C5 filter/reg on WS6 store for $150).
-Anyone try the Alloboltz stainless still bolt kit or have a better solution to help avoid rusting (especially header and visible bolts)?
-Clean looking solution for throttle cable bracket? I’ve read most people fabricate their own
-Retaining factory fans and having radiator cleaned/flushed while its out. Car has always stayed below 200 even in hot/humid Chicago weather with the A/C on. Any thoughts to upgrade fans and what to use if so?
-Has anyone seen the steering intermediate shaft holder thing that bolts to the shock tower? My shaft binds causing play in the wheel. Last I checked, Green Mountain (?) no longer carried it.

Thanks again everyone

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Here are a few lessons learned from putting the 428 in my 99 hawk:

1. You dont have a tubular K on your list. Highly recommended

2. I had issues with F body oil pan and 4 inch stroke. Ended up using a holley retrofit pan. YMMV.

3. Consider adding a crank scraper?

4. I went through several steering racks and finally ended up converting to manual steering. If you are running skinnies its a great option.

5. A motor that big, a 100mm maf will actually choke you down some. Do a 4 inch CAI and go speed density

6. If you are getting a 24x reluctor, all good. If a 58x, the lingenfelter box works, but put it in the cabin and extend the harness to keep it cool.

bbond105

I would think the FTP 90MM lid and NW92 Throttle Body would defiantly choke it down. Why not use a NW102 Throttle body and 104MM lid? The NW102 should be easier to tune on a 416 ci engine.

NAVYBLUE210

The 92 MM TB won't choke it down as much as the stock intake.
416" + Ported LS9 Heads, + "Massive Cam", + Stock Intake = Major Dissappointment.
What are the "massive cam specs" ?

Pbarby

Hey Darth. Still love the pic.

I have the UMI K-member.

What I’ve been reading on here is my pan should be fine provided windage is spaced (comes with motor). I’ve looked at baffled pans, not worth the money for my 95% DD w/ lead foot.

I’ll ask Kyle regarding the crank scraper. Seems like a decent mod.

Full size tires up front, I like having power steering…replacements are cheap enough and accessible

I’ll talk about the MAF/intake below as it came up again.

I did order motor with 24x reluctor.

I appreciate your input, Darth…on this and my last post. If you have any more feedback I’d appreciate it.



Darth, Bond and Navy: I go through the intake battle in my head every day…more of a cool-factor for me I think, I’m pretty sure I don’t “need” it. A FAST 102 might gain 15hp and an MSD (preferred) a little more… however it’ll be with higher revs which I’d rather have in torque down low. High RPM is an engine killer (especially in a stroker) 2nd to detonation.

I’d rather spend the $850 difference between the (LS3 intake w/ 92mm TB, C5Z MAF) and the (MSD w, 104MM TB and 100MM MAF) towards increasing motor longevity (like asking TMS to break it in on the dyno). From what I read, speed density may not be the best for my driving habits.

I’ll ask the tuner if the 104mm lid, 100MM MAF and 92MM TB going into a factory 90MM LS3 intake makes most sense and take it from there.

I don’t want to give out the exact cam specs, since I’m not sure TMS would be ok with it…It’s in the area 240-260 various durations (longer exh) @ .050, 630ish lift (same) in/ex 1.7 rockers, LSA 1XX (mid teens) and a few degrees advanced. Dyno graph showed 609 peak hp at 6800 and 520tq at 5400…I didn’t ask what the CR of the tested motor was but trust what I was told based on this forum, other forums, other review boards and most importantly our conversations. It’s going to be a fun motor.

Any more advise is always appreciated. I’m still not certain if fuel delivery and regulator are overkill. I’m pretty sure I’m going to install an Air/Fuel wide band and fuel pressure gauges (piece of mind and cool-factor).

Rick01SS

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-4758-t...vehicles.aspx?

Pbarby

Thanks Rick. I have the conversion kit ordered with TMS.

NHRATA01

iTrader: (10)

Here's one I didn't see on there - starter. I would not reuse your LS1 starter with the unequal length bolts as they are prone to crack the starter boss when the bolt loosens over time (you can search tech for threads on this). Get a newer version that uses the two long bolts. I did not want to risk cracking an expensive new long block trying to save $100 on a starter.

Pbarby

Thank you! Not looking to take any ANY chances...I did just read ls1 and ls3 (2010 camaro) have two different part numbers for starters.

I've added 12617229 (delco starter), pt170 (pigtail) and 2 11610787 bolts to the list.

Thanks again, very much appreciated.

Pbarby

Darth...I apologize for dismissing your recommendations for the oilpan. I did more research and realized I was wrong. I spoke to improved racing and will be placing an order with them for a holley pan (302.3), windage/crank scraper and dipstick kit in the weeks to come. Hope all is well.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

No problem. I take nothing personally on here anyway. You may need to move your steering gear forward to clear the pan.

2010Imperial

Just curious, as I am about to call Thompson. Why a 416 and not a 427?

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I don't know. I'd go 427 every time.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I get what you're saying about the prices of the various intakes, but I wanted to sort of debunk the torque down low thing...

If you're building a 6.0 or something, I get it. Don't go crazy or you'll shift the torque too high in the power band. But a 400+ CI motor, and especially a 4" stroke, you really don't need to worry about it in a street car. Unless the vehicle is going to be heavy or needs to be a tow/haul type application. That longer lever arm is going to make torque. That displacement is going to make torque. My 428 (ls7-based), I run LS7 heads, a 247/255 cam at 12.3:1 compression with 1-7/8 headers, dual exhaust, and a sniper intake, which is basically like a short-runner, sheet metal intake. I have done nothing to preserve torque and built it all for top end. Even a light clutch, which supposedly hurts low end (although I disagree that it does). I can still put it in fourth gear at 20mph, lug the motor, and accelerate uphill. And not lazy "sort of" accelerate, but pulling the car. Not like second or third of course, but no worse than the skipshift kicking in on wife's vette.

Just food for thought. By all means, save the $850 and use it elsewhere. But don't do it if you're worried about torque in a big cube, street car motor.