Greg88

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

long story short, I’ve had a my engine out a two times in the last two years trying to figure out my oil leak issue. My engine builder says the top of the engine appears to be dry. I’ve replaced the rear main seal twice, oil pan gasket twice and a new oil pan itself. I truly think it’s the rear main seal again and will likely change into again. Ive been using the Teflon felpro one this entire time. Would it be better to try out the rubber one? Not sure if it’s not sealing properly onto the crank or what. I’ve done the dye, ran it without the tranny. Seems it leaks bad under load.

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

I put the rubber one in and not a single drop. They say the teflon one is better but something told me to go with the old school seal. Also make sure the crank surface is smooth and true without inperfections that could damage the seal..

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

This plastic tool helps the seal go on smoothly too.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Once you take the seal off, check the crank journal to see if there's a grove worn in. I think last seal I replaced was rubber. For some reason I remember being told the teflon ones have more of a tendency to wear a grove into a journal than the rubber ones. Also, don't remember which one, but one of them needs to be installed dry and the other requires a thin coat of oil. Instructions will say, but make sure to pay attention.

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

Teflon dry or it can leak. Rubber seal is installed with oil for lubrication.

Greg88

iTrader: (1)

Greg88

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atlantadan

The last seal I installed came with one

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

This rear main seal came with the install tool.

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

But......i ended up using this national rubber seal # 10088158 and you can see the tool is nicely oiled on install. I use rtv on all gaskets including the oilpan, timing cover, and wp. Just a thin layer on each side though.

BALLSS

I have always used the rubber FelPro RMS




….and use this tool to install.

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

That kent moore tool is the best. But it cost a few bucks. Good tools are worth the money though.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Good Lord, look at that thing. I bet it costs a thousand dollars. Maybe $999.99? I mean, I've always gotten away with the **** plastic o-ring-like tool that came in the box and a rubber mallet.

Edit- So I was a little off. See it going for around $200. No, thank you.

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

Same here, the 10 cent plastic tool did the trick for me. The kent moore tool is nice if you do seals all the time and or don't want to hammer them in with a mallet.

Supercharged111

iTrader: (1)

I did mine over the summer and didn't use any sort of tool, just tapped it in likely with a hammer and socket extension. I later discovered it was the oil pressure sending unit that was winter-proofing the bottom of my car and not the rear main. No biggie as I was in there anyway.

Greg88

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350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

I always put a very thin layer of rtv on each side of the gasket. Permatex ultra black in the oil pan gaskets case. Although that oil pan gasket is supp to seal on its own without rtv.

Supercharged111

iTrader: (1)

It does. . . everywhere but the main cap corners. Just need a blob there block and oil pan side to keep stuff dry. I've used 4 of these gaskets.

Greg88

iTrader: (1)