Sbc aluminum head suggestions
#1
Sbc aluminum head suggestions
I've got a Chevy 355 I'm building and I'm looking to purchase some aluminum heads for it, I want to go aluminum because it's got no to have 10:1 compression ratio and need to run pump gas. The cam I have is a comp xs274s which is a solid lifter cam with 0.501 intake and 0.510 exhaust lift and 274 intake and 280 exhaust duration. That the highest I will be revving is 6500. I've only got max 1400 can to spend. Any suggestions?
#5
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
https://blueprintengines.com/product...sembled-h8002k
or if OP want's to just blow his whole budget just get a set of AFR or Brodix 195's. They'll perform EXTREMELY well and take up all your 1400 bucks haha. I was going to use a set of fast burns but the guy I was trying to buy them from in Florida was being a donkey and wanted me
#6
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Correct, i kinda put my foot in my mouth right after I posted that. Spend a lot of time looking at heads this bast December at PRI. Honestly though, for the price I would strongly suggest looking into a set of blue print H8002k's They come assembled, vortec and standard intake compatible, out flow the fast burns, pretty sure the fast burns have a raised exhaust port as well which can make header fitment a bitch. The slightly smaller runner will help keep intake velocity up and the 64cc chamber should keep you pump gas safe as well. For $900 bucks for the pair, they are hard to beat. We put a set on a little 355 in a chevy luv and hit it with a 100 shot, thing ran great.
https://blueprintengines.com/product...sembled-h8002k
or if OP want's to just blow his whole budget just get a set of AFR or Brodix 195's. They'll perform EXTREMELY well and take up all your 1400 bucks haha. I was going to use a set of fast burns but the guy I was trying to buy them from in Florida was being a donkey and wanted me
https://blueprintengines.com/product...sembled-h8002k
or if OP want's to just blow his whole budget just get a set of AFR or Brodix 195's. They'll perform EXTREMELY well and take up all your 1400 bucks haha. I was going to use a set of fast burns but the guy I was trying to buy them from in Florida was being a donkey and wanted me
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#8
I have a set of used aluminum edelbrock performer heads. 2.02 intake 1.60 exhaust 64cc straight plug, .575 lift springs guide plates and studs. Used on my dads sbc for about 2000 miles. They are 750$ per head new, I’d take a lot less
#9
TECH Resident
I've got a Chevy 355 I'm building and I'm looking to purchase some aluminum heads for it, I want to go aluminum because it's got no to have 10:1 compression ratio and need to run pump gas. The cam I have is a comp xs274s which is a solid lifter cam with 0.501 intake and 0.510 exhaust lift and 274 intake and 280 exhaust duration. That the highest I will be revving is 6500. I've only got max 1400 can to spend. Any suggestions?
Assault Racing 205cc bare castings from Amazon
Competition Products Head Improvement kit with 2.02/1.60" .100" longer valves and dual springs
Competition Products Adjustable Guide Plates
Comp Cams Spring Seats
ARP 7/16" screw in studs
Ported, Milled, & Valve job by LLoyd Elliot.
I think if you used the standard head improvement kit with standard length valves and a single spring you would be cheaper. Just have a good valve job done on them and run them. With the 1.7 rocker and roller cam I am running being .580" lift on both there is a much more pronounced improvement for my setup from the porting/valve job. Compared to out of the box with your .500" lift the improvements are much less drastic there.
BEFORE PORTING
LIFT------INTAKE-----EXHAUST
.200----------135-------103
.300----------183-------131
.400----------225-------150
.500----------244-------164
.600----------241-------175
.700----------241-------177
AFTER PORTING
LIFT------INTAKE-----EXHAUST
.200----------138-------107
.300----------192-------138
.400----------241-------164
.500----------274-------183
.600----------291-------193
.700----------295-------199
Last edited by Fast355; 03-21-2019 at 02:31 PM.
#15
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Dude you can do whatever you want. It’s your money. But I tried fatty 2 sportsman’s. Ported. Then dart pro 1’s. Ported. Afr 195’s. Even trick flow R’s. None of them made the car as fast as the fast burn heads. Like I said. Do what you like, but I had the fastest street car around here back around 97,98,99ish. Car was trapping 122+ on wore out 555r’s with a 2.0 60ft. It was a legit 10 second daily driven, all motor, no nitrous (well I had it as insurance) full interior with power everything and ac. I had 11.5 to 1 compression. Ran pump 93. 6” rod 383. It would limp on 87 if I turned the timing down. It liked 27-29 degrees on 93. I hsd a **** on the dash to back the timing down a few degrees if I couldn’t afford (I was a broke *** kid trying to go fast) 93.
You ever notice how a ls motor makes good power so easily? Well a good bit of it has to do with the compression you can run and the combustion chamber. The fast burn heads were ahead of their time. Of course the ls heads flow very well but so do the fastburns. But it’s not all about overall flow. You can have a head that makes good flow numbers but don’t make power for ****. Velocity and efficiency play a part in the equation. And in my opinion, gm got it right with the fast burn heads.
Let me tell you you something I did. I hate admitting this too.....
i broke the crank in that motor. So I had to start over. So I figured go bigger and better and badder in every way. Except cubic inches.
Original motor was:
383 cubic inch
fast burn heads
comp 230/244 on a 114 with solid roller lifters on it.
6” eagle sir rods
cast eagle crank
canton oil pan
srp flat tops.
Car ran 11.40’s trapping 122
new motor
383
trick flow r heads ported, flowed 300.3 on intake at .700 227 on exhaust
comp 242/248 114 lobe seperation solid roller (reused lifters)
scat h beam 6” rods
scat forged crank
same srp pistons
same canton oil pan
car ran 11.60@120
MORE Cam, MORE head flow, less power. It even did not rev as high. It stopped pulling at 6800-7000 whereas the original setup pulled hard to 7800. Yea. I said it, 7800rpm out of a stroker. I have Dyno graphs to prove it.
But but like I said. Do whatever you want.
You ever notice how a ls motor makes good power so easily? Well a good bit of it has to do with the compression you can run and the combustion chamber. The fast burn heads were ahead of their time. Of course the ls heads flow very well but so do the fastburns. But it’s not all about overall flow. You can have a head that makes good flow numbers but don’t make power for ****. Velocity and efficiency play a part in the equation. And in my opinion, gm got it right with the fast burn heads.
Let me tell you you something I did. I hate admitting this too.....
i broke the crank in that motor. So I had to start over. So I figured go bigger and better and badder in every way. Except cubic inches.
Original motor was:
383 cubic inch
fast burn heads
comp 230/244 on a 114 with solid roller lifters on it.
6” eagle sir rods
cast eagle crank
canton oil pan
srp flat tops.
Car ran 11.40’s trapping 122
new motor
383
trick flow r heads ported, flowed 300.3 on intake at .700 227 on exhaust
comp 242/248 114 lobe seperation solid roller (reused lifters)
scat h beam 6” rods
scat forged crank
same srp pistons
same canton oil pan
car ran 11.60@120
MORE Cam, MORE head flow, less power. It even did not rev as high. It stopped pulling at 6800-7000 whereas the original setup pulled hard to 7800. Yea. I said it, 7800rpm out of a stroker. I have Dyno graphs to prove it.
But but like I said. Do whatever you want.
#16
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Dude you can do whatever you want. It’s your money. But I tried fatty 2 sportsman’s. Ported. Then dart pro 1’s. Ported. Afr 195’s. Even trick flow R’s. None of them made the car as fast as the fast burn heads. Like I said. Do what you like, but I had the fastest street car around here back around 97,98,99ish. Car was trapping 122+ on wore out 555r’s with a 2.0 60ft. It was a legit 10 second daily driven, all motor, no nitrous (well I had it as insurance) full interior with power everything and ac. I had 11.5 to 1 compression. Ran pump 93. 6” rod 383. It would limp on 87 if I turned the timing down. It liked 27-29 degrees on 93. I hsd a **** on the dash to back the timing down a few degrees if I couldn’t afford (I was a broke *** kid trying to go fast) 93.
You ever notice how a ls motor makes good power so easily? Well a good bit of it has to do with the compression you can run and the combustion chamber. The fast burn heads were ahead of their time. Of course the ls heads flow very well but so do the fastburns. But it’s not all about overall flow. You can have a head that makes good flow numbers but don’t make power for ****. Velocity and efficiency play a part in the equation. And in my opinion, gm got it right with the fast burn heads.
Let me tell you you something I did. I hate admitting this too.....
i broke the crank in that motor. So I had to start over. So I figured go bigger and better and badder in every way. Except cubic inches.
Original motor was:
383 cubic inch
fast burn heads
comp 230/244 on a 114 with solid roller lifters on it.
6” eagle sir rods
cast eagle crank
canton oil pan
srp flat tops.
Car ran 11.40’s trapping 122
new motor
383
trick flow r heads ported, flowed 300.3 on intake at .700 227 on exhaust
comp 242/248 114 lobe seperation solid roller (reused lifters)
scat h beam 6” rods
scat forged crank
same srp pistons
same canton oil pan
car ran 11.60@120
MORE Cam, MORE head flow, less power. It even did not rev as high. It stopped pulling at 6800-7000 whereas the original setup pulled hard to 7800. Yea. I said it, 7800rpm out of a stroker. I have Dyno graphs to prove it.
But but like I said. Do whatever you want.
You ever notice how a ls motor makes good power so easily? Well a good bit of it has to do with the compression you can run and the combustion chamber. The fast burn heads were ahead of their time. Of course the ls heads flow very well but so do the fastburns. But it’s not all about overall flow. You can have a head that makes good flow numbers but don’t make power for ****. Velocity and efficiency play a part in the equation. And in my opinion, gm got it right with the fast burn heads.
Let me tell you you something I did. I hate admitting this too.....
i broke the crank in that motor. So I had to start over. So I figured go bigger and better and badder in every way. Except cubic inches.
Original motor was:
383 cubic inch
fast burn heads
comp 230/244 on a 114 with solid roller lifters on it.
6” eagle sir rods
cast eagle crank
canton oil pan
srp flat tops.
Car ran 11.40’s trapping 122
new motor
383
trick flow r heads ported, flowed 300.3 on intake at .700 227 on exhaust
comp 242/248 114 lobe seperation solid roller (reused lifters)
scat h beam 6” rods
scat forged crank
same srp pistons
same canton oil pan
car ran 11.60@120
MORE Cam, MORE head flow, less power. It even did not rev as high. It stopped pulling at 6800-7000 whereas the original setup pulled hard to 7800. Yea. I said it, 7800rpm out of a stroker. I have Dyno graphs to prove it.
But but like I said. Do whatever you want.
#17
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
More cam and flow but less RPM... ? Clearly a problem somewhere or a combination of problems, valve float, shyt exhaust setup? especially for lack of I/E spread? You went from 14 degree spread to 4 almost none but took on way more intake duration. How you getting the extra out?
same 1 5/8 full length headers. Same single 4” exhaust. Extra air? Well theoretically it should have been extra air but if it was an exhaust restriction, it should have gone at least the same mph. My simple explanation is the trick flow r might flow more ON A FLOW BENCH but I’d put money on it that in the real world, ON THE ENGINE, they didn’t flow as well and didn’t fill the cylinders as well. I added a good bit of valve spring to it too. Could have been a cylinder shrouding issue, 2.10/1.60 valves vs 2.0/1.56 valves. The simple true is, bigger ain’t always better. Flow numbers aren’t everything.
#18
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
How you going to give advice with mismatched shyt like that? Retarded valve size for bore and small *** headers no I/E spread? FIX the combination, no THEORY suggest it should run the same with all the mismatched bs let alone on a different day. You have no clue whats going on, and till you get it to rpm the same or higher it wont run the same. You spin it high with the first combo, put bigger donkey dick cam in (that probably could use even more compression and converter?) and fall short 800-1000pm. So let me get this straight, you kill midrange torque with a huge cam and lose 800-1000 rpm yet still run within .20 lol and claim they are better heads? Just lol. Im done, blind can lead the blind IDGAF.
Last edited by TT427; 03-26-2019 at 03:51 PM.
#19
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
How you going to give advice with mismatched shyt like that? Retarded valve size for bore and small *** headers no I/E spread? FIX the combination, no THEORY suggest it should run the same with all the mismatched bs let alone on a different day. You have no clue whats going on, and till you get it to rpm the same or higher it wont run the same. You spin it high with the first combo, put bigger donkey dick cam in (that probably could use even more compression and converter?) and fall short 800-1000pm. So let me get this straight, you kill midrange torque with a huge cam and lose 800-1000 rpm yet still run within .20 lol and claim they are better heads? Just lol. Im done, blind can lead the blind IDGAF.
#20
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (31)
Yea, i remember i had to raise the intake runners and slot the header bolt holes and weld a tack at the top of the holes to keep the headers up higher. The engine was in a third gen daily driven camaro that was not stripped down and still had ac. It ran 11.40's at 122mph back in the day. on nitto 555r tires and had like a 1.9-2.0 60ft lol. it would have gone in the 10's on drag wheels and tires. I think it trapped 92ish in the 1/8 so it shows it pulled hard up top when it hooked up.