No converter Lock-Up......only after it’s warmed up.....??? UPDATE-FIXED
#1
No converter Lock-Up......only after it’s warmed up.....??? UPDATE-FIXED
So it locks-up perfectly in both 3 and D when engine is cold....and it locks-up for a little while as it warms up....Once it’s all the way up to operating temp after driving for 20 min....it will not lock-up in either gear.
Everything else is in 100% perfect working order.
4L60E
3200 Vigilante Stall Converter
Full fluid.....very clean
What could it be...?
EDIT-UPDATE: Changed the internal wiring harness with new lock-up solenoid. Thats it. All fixed.
Everything else is in 100% perfect working order.
4L60E
3200 Vigilante Stall Converter
Full fluid.....very clean
What could it be...?
EDIT-UPDATE: Changed the internal wiring harness with new lock-up solenoid. Thats it. All fixed.
Last edited by stilealive; 05-01-2019 at 06:01 PM.
#5
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
I think there are a lot of things that will cause it to not lock, first thing I'd do is get a scanner and see if the computer is commanding it to lock. If so and it's not locking, then I'd say it's something mechanical. I think that would throw a CEL though when it saw the slipping, not sure. Next thing, if the computer isn't commanding lock, then the computer is seeing "bumpy road" or other criteria that it thinks it better to not lock. I think misfire detection being misconfigured can also cause it to not lock, especially if you have a lightweight converter. I'm not a pro so take with grain of salt, that's how I would tackle it..
Last edited by mk3cn4; 04-18-2019 at 01:31 PM.
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#8
Does the TCC valve get replaced if I buy a new internal harness......is that part included in the harness? I can get a brand new harness for $40.00, I know it includes a new Lock-Up solenoid. But they never mentioned what else it has....
Last edited by stilealive; 04-18-2019 at 03:41 PM.
#10
What about the TCC....can that be done at the same time? How long will that take to relace the TCC.....?
#11
Or a TransGo valve, maybe even a Fitzall. Some builders can rig it by installing the valve backwards.
This might be the most common problem with this transmission. Sometimes it sets a code, sometimes it doesn't.
What happens is the oil is slightly thicker when you first start out, then it gets thinner and leaks past the valve more.
Could be other things like a misfire. I've seen a bad TPS sensor do this also.
But, like I said, it might be the most common problem with this transmission so it's going to happen sooner or later so it wouldn't hurt to take care of it.
I wonder what was done during the last rebuild, most builders who know what they're doing add a better valve at each rebuild to prevent this problem.
#12
The valve body would have to come out and the tcc regulator bore reamed and an oversized valve installed, usually a Sonnax valve with a sleeve.
Or a TransGo valve, maybe even a Fitzall. Some builders can rig it by installing the valve backwards.
This might be the most common problem with this transmission. Sometimes it sets a code, sometimes it doesn't.
What happens is the oil is slightly thicker when you first start out, then it gets thinner and leaks past the valve more.
Could be other things like a misfire. I've seen a bad TPS sensor do this also.
But, like I said, it might be the most common problem with this transmission so it's going to happen sooner or later so it wouldn't hurt to take care of it.
I wonder what was done during the last rebuild, most builders who know what they're doing add a better valve at each rebuild to prevent this problem.
Or a TransGo valve, maybe even a Fitzall. Some builders can rig it by installing the valve backwards.
This might be the most common problem with this transmission. Sometimes it sets a code, sometimes it doesn't.
What happens is the oil is slightly thicker when you first start out, then it gets thinner and leaks past the valve more.
Could be other things like a misfire. I've seen a bad TPS sensor do this also.
But, like I said, it might be the most common problem with this transmission so it's going to happen sooner or later so it wouldn't hurt to take care of it.
I wonder what was done during the last rebuild, most builders who know what they're doing add a better valve at each rebuild to prevent this problem.
Can we rule out mechanical issues.....since it locks-up strong in both 3 and D when its cold, and since there's zero slipping and any other shifting or operation problem?
There are no codes showing right now.
#15
How much longer is the job to also do the TCC valve?
#16
My best suggestion, since you're not doing the work, is drop it off and have it fixed. Let the guy working on it get his hands in there, figure it out, and fix the problem. Easy.
#17
Thanks for the info.....
#18
Couldn't do it Saturday, my friends dealership got too busy.
One other question: I was driving today, it locked up at about 60mph.....but as I sped up slowly it would then unlock. I would slow back down and it would struggle to lock up, but it did. Then after 15 minutes it would not lock up again.
So before we waste our time.......the TCC valve. Is that a part that will act like that when failing?
Lock-up solenoid.......will that act like that?
I would hate to just do the harness and lock up solenoid and then the problem is still there.
One other question: I was driving today, it locked up at about 60mph.....but as I sped up slowly it would then unlock. I would slow back down and it would struggle to lock up, but it did. Then after 15 minutes it would not lock up again.
So before we waste our time.......the TCC valve. Is that a part that will act like that when failing?
Lock-up solenoid.......will that act like that?
I would hate to just do the harness and lock up solenoid and then the problem is still there.
#20
TECH Junkie