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I'd file the burs off so you can get the damper back on and run it. Suck all the metal fillings out with a Shopvac and cover the oil pan so no fillings can enter. What exactly are you doing to that engine??? You need to explain things better if you want help.
^^ ha my thoughts! OP you will have to file off the burrs and use emery cloth to get the crank snout free of burrs and "smooth". Once the pulley goes on I would make sure the threads are ok and install a new bolt. Preferably the arp bolt and tighten it down to spec. Cross your fingers! Most importantly you learned a lesson and you won't forget it! We all **** up.
This screams slow down. If you're unsure of how something is going to go do it in slow bits and stop and check things as you go. We've all done it so I'm not trying to act like I haven't.
As for the crank, you'll need to file the front of it flat so that the pulley will fully seat to the right depth. You'll need to check the tip of it for roundness and do some work there or the interference fit between the crank and the pulley will be too tight and you're likely to break or strip the crank bolt trying to pull the pulley on if it is too tight. You'll need to mic the snout and check it vs further down the crank and get it as close as you can. You're gonna need some files and sand paper and a lot of patience.
What crank pulley tool are you referring to that you needed a socket on for a spacer, and how in the world did the socket dig in that deep? This would have had to been when you either were pulling the timing gear or you put a socket on the stock bolt and hammered the bolt down into the socket. Which if you were putting the bolt into the crank to turn in you don't have to tighten it that tight.
I've used a tow strap to prevent rotation before, if you have the right length, you can cinch it around the pulley and cinch it around your foot and it frees up your hand. I turned down the OD of an old crank bolt to be less than the ID of the balancer, used in conjunction with a proper spacer it holds the spacer in place without getting into the threads and buggering them up and gives you a solid surface to drive the puller bolt into. I also put a dimple in the top of the bolt head so the puller would not wander.
This screams slow down. If you're unsure of how something is going to go do it in slow bits and stop and check things as you go. We've all done it so I'm not trying to act like I haven't.
As for the crank, you'll need to file the front of it flat so that the pulley will fully seat to the right depth. You'll need to check the tip of it for roundness and do some work there or the interference fit between the crank and the pulley will be too tight and you're likely to break or strip the crank bolt trying to pull the pulley on if it is too tight. You'll need to mic the snout and check it vs further down the crank and get it as close as you can. You're gonna need some files and sand paper and a lot of patience.
What crank pulley tool are you referring to that you needed a socket on for a spacer, and how in the world did the socket dig in that deep? This would have had to been when you either were pulling the timing gear or you put a socket on the stock bolt and hammered the bolt down into the socket. Which if you were putting the bolt into the crank to turn in you don't have to tighten it that tight.
the male threaded portion of the pulley tool was too short. I mated the socket against the crank snout so it would push against it. In theory, it would have worked without any issues. My mistake was using the tow strap to hold the crank pulley from spinning. As i rotated the pulley puller, it added positive pressure to the pulley itself. Big mistake.
the male threaded portion of the pulley tool was too short. I mated the socket against the crank snout so it would push against it. In theory, it would have worked without any issues. My mistake was using the tow strap to hold the crank pulley from spinning. As i rotated the pulley puller, it added positive pressure to the pulley itself. Big mistake.
Okay gotcha. I use the chrysler crank pulley tool that comes with different length pins to go down through the crank and contact the flat spot down in the snout. If you don't have that tool you can use the puller you did you can thread the crank pulley bolt down into the threads 4-5 turns and push off of the head of the bolt with the puller, you can leave the bolt a little out and pull the pulley against it then back off and unthread the bolt a little more and go a little further but you have to make sure that the bolt is at least threaded in a few turns while doing this, if you just place the bolt in there and push it will smash the leading threads. That way if anything gets funky it's just the head of the bolt.
A better way is you can also put a 3/8" extension down in the snout and push off of it. If 3/8" is too big you can use a 1/4" extension.
Also you would probably have been fine if you didn't hold the pulley with anything, I never do when I pull them, I just crank on the puller and it pulls the pulley. Do hold the pulley when you tq the crank bolt though. A strap wrench would work nicely.
Here is the chrysler pulley puller I use that makes it a breeze
Oh if you got the pulley off with that big indention there in the snout, it'll probably go back on okay. Just file the front of the crank flat with a mill bastard file and vacuum out the shavings. Then see if you bolt will thread in okay in and out, if so don't mess with the threads.
Heat your crank pulley to 200-250 in the oven then run and slap it on and lightly tap it back, don't pound the **** out of it, then try to walk it on with the bolt, but make sure you have at least 4-5 threads of the bolt in the crank before trying to pull the pulley on with the bolt. If it barely threads in and you try to pull the pulley in it will strip the threads.
Put a light coat of lube on the crank snout and the pulley bolt threads to ease up on things. Grease the back flat side of the crank bolt where it's going to contact the front of the crank pulley since there will be a ton of force and friction right there when using the bolt to pull the pulley on. Once the pulley is on you can pull the bolt back out and clean the grease off.
But if you use a pulley installer pretty much none of the above is a concern.
Oh if you got the pulley off with that big indention there in the snout, it'll probably go back on okay. Just file the front of the crank flat with a mill bastard file and vacuum out the shavings. Then see if you bolt will thread in okay in and out, if so don't mess with the threads.
Heat your crank pulley to 200-250 in the oven then run and slap it on and lightly tap it back, don't pound the **** out of it, then try to walk it on with the bolt, but make sure you have at least 4-5 threads of the bolt in the crank before trying to pull the pulley on with the bolt. If it barely threads in and you try to pull the pulley in it will strip the threads.
Put a light coat of lube on the crank snout and the pulley bolt threads to ease up on things. Grease the back flat side of the crank bolt where it's going to contact the front of the crank pulley since there will be a ton of force and friction right there when using the bolt to pull the pulley on. Once the pulley is on you can pull the bolt back out and clean the grease off.
But if you use a pulley installer pretty much none of the above is a concern.
Sounds like a breeze! Last question, while I’m here..
i wasnt planning on changing the oil pan gasket...is that a big no no?
Sounds like a breeze! Last question, while I’m here..
i wasnt planning on changing the oil pan gasket...is that a big no no?
A lot of people leave the oil pan on and swap the pump like you did. But a lot of them also pinch the o ring for the oil pump pick up tube too.
I take the pan off so I don't have to worry about pinching the o ring and so that I have a new pan gasket, (if you take the pan off you can take the bolt out of the pickup tube that holds it to the main and put it in the pump then bolt it back down). The pan gaskets are notorious for leaking but you don't HAVE to change it.
Pan alignment is important so don't just slap it on and bolt it down, I have a method for making sure it's all the way back and to keep it from cracking if you accidentally don't do it right. I know because I broke one once lol.
I'd take extreme careful measures reinstalling your pickup tube into your oil pump. They can pinch so easy and cause major issues. Grease it up good and install it by hand feeling it install in there.
Oh, I like to put a tiny bit of RTV in the corners of the oil pan and front/rear covers. You don't need much and some don't use any, your call.
I'd take extreme careful measures reinstalling your pickup tube into your oil pump. They can pinch so easy and cause major issues. Grease it up good and install it by hand feeling it install in there.
Oh, I like to put a tiny bit of RTV in the corners of the oil pan and front/rear covers. You don't need much and some don't use any, your call.
Agreed, and you are supposed to always put silicone in those corners. The actual rule is to put a dab of silicone anywhere two covers meet or there is a corner. So if you had the pan off but the front timing cover on, you would still put silicone on the spot where the front cover meets the block.
And like on fords where the timing cover makes up part of the sealing surface for the valve cover you put dab on the flat surface where the front cover meets the head, there's even a special spot on the gasket where that point is to hold the silicone. There's more too it but no point in writing a book on it lol.
You are the reason for product warnings I assume lol.
Dont mean to give you tons of crap, atleast you are doing it yourself vs paying someone.
To reinstall you need a longer bolt or a tool. If you have a fastenal near you they stock some.
I've only done it once, but how I installed my pulley was I beat it on with a rubber mallet and a socket that sits right where the bolt head goes. At least until I got enough thread engagement to pull with the old bolt. No issues so far
I've only done it once, but how I installed my pulley was I beat it on with a rubber mallet and a socket that sits right where the bolt head goes. At least until I got enough thread engagement to pull with the old bolt. No issues so far
next time heat it up with a propane torch until about 200F it'll just slide on. beating on it with a mallet isn't doing your thrust bearing any favors
04-24-2019, 11:32 PM
How badly did I **** up? 
