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Catch Can and EGR removal Questions

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Old 04-25-2019, 12:01 PM
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formerly 04 Rooster (2013-12-10)
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Default Catch Can and EGR removal Questions

I'm sure older members are sick of seeing this topic but I did a thorough search (and read the sticky at the top) and I feel like the info on catch cans is several years old at best.

I have been looking at several units suggested here: Norris an Michi. Received great customer service from both already.

I have an LS1 (2000 Trans Am) that I just added LT's and an LS6 intake manifold (LS1 valley tray). I intend to add a cam and heads (already have 243s purchased) over the next few years.
-Is a dual can far superior to a single can for my application-now and future mods considered? The cost of these cans are really high and I want to make sure there is value in this purchase.

I may be confusing this next question as it does not directly relate to the catch can question above. I removed the ERG and AIR when I did the mods above. I plan to get a tune to disable the CEL. I read I should NOT add a breather but would like to confirm if it is okay to drive the car as is. I hooked all the venting hoses back up after removing the EGR and AIR. I think I'm worrying about nothing but would love someone to confirm or deny that!
Old 04-25-2019, 03:25 PM
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Engine is safe to run, but it should get a tune after removing the emissions stuff just to get everything in sync. Depending on the setup you're running you can save money by do any exhaust work before the tune since your rear O2s will probably need to be tuned out anyway.

The catch can is more about interior design than anything. Most of the expensive units are hollow cans which are essentially useless. They look pretty and have a trendy name, but internally aren't much different from having 2 pipes shoved through the top of an empty can of peas. Find 1 with some sort of internal baffling to get the oil vapor to condense and separate. Even a basic air oil separator from home depot can work if you plug the automatic drain valve. Once you know how it works the crap ones become very obvious.
Old 04-25-2019, 03:48 PM
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Thanks for the info confirming I can drive the car. I will get a tune for the LTs, intake manifold and to tune the O2s and remove the egr/air codes over the next few weeks. I want to get it driving and make sure there are no issues with the mods I did.

I appreciate your opinion on the catch cans. I had an eBay one on my C5 and am not really sure how well it performed. There is a lot of info saying the expensive one work and the cheap ones don’t. A catch can is looking to be more expensive than my LTs! And that seems crazy...
Old 04-25-2019, 08:53 PM
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Many people think that just because they spend a lot it means that they have something great. It's the reason why k&n is still in business even though their filters do more harm than good.

Start by looking at the inside of the cans and ignore any that are empty inside and have the same length pipes. At the minimum it needs have different length pipes with something in between that the air has to go around. You can also go cheaply by running your own filter material in the cheapest empty can you find. Just make sure the intake pipe is set low and the outlet is high so the air is forced to pass through the material to escape the can. A good setup is easily done under $50 if you assemble it yourself.
Old 04-25-2019, 09:35 PM
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I run a $25 air compressor oil separator for a catch can
Old 04-26-2019, 09:39 AM
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Thanks for the catch can info. I’ll do some more research before I spend big bucks on one.
cheers!




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