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Took my car to the track for the first time ever going down a 1/4 mile with anything. 2000 Trans Am stock 243s with 660 springs, TSP LTs, over the axle true duals and a BTR stage 3 cam. Stock intake, injectors, clutch, master, suspension and rear end. Used a set of 28s that my buddy had laying around (obviously not ideal). First pass went 12.7 at 112 after driving it over an hour to the track and smoking the clutch launching at 4200 (I was trying to slip it to prevent the car from bogging). Second pass I let the car sit for about an hour with the hood open to cool down and went 12.5 at 113 and smoked the clutch even worse. Even my tuner thought the car would probably go around 12.6 at 109-110 with a good 60’ and as you can see both passes had awful 60’ times due to the stock clutch. I have a spec stage 2 to go in it this week but I’d like to maybe get an intake and injectors in it to get it to 11.9s on 28s and 3.42s just because it shouldn’t.
definitely get that sixty foot down with more seat time will net closer to low 12s/hi 11s. DA according to the date and time of the track is +1200' so Da correction factor puts the car at about 12.4 at 114-115.
definitely get that sixty foot down with more seat time will net closer to low 12s/hi 11s. DA according to the date and time of the track is +1200' so Da correction factor puts the car at about 12.4 at 114-115.
I wish the video was would load off my phone you can hear the difference when the clutch finally fully bites and it’s probably at or a little out past the 60’. With a better clutch in the car it should pick up a lot and then I can dial myself in to get it even better. I’ll hopefully have a tick master and that spec stage 2 in before the next test and tune
So I put an RST in the car and went back to the track. Went 12.3 first time out with it, tried dumping it at 6k and it pulled the driver side tire but bogged hard at about the 60’, slipped the clutch a bit from 6000 on the last one and went 12.160. Gotta figure out how to launch it perfect and it should be a 12.0x car. Still on 3.42s stock suspension/intake/gears.
Your rearend is killing you brother. Get you a 9" and the car will run 11.4s or better. My buddie went from a 12.1X to a 11.41 after he installed a MWC 9" with 4.1X gears. Its a 6 speed car as well. Just some real life advice.
Your rearend is killing you brother. Get you a 9" and the car will run 11.4s or better. My buddie went from a 12.1X to a 11.41 after he installed a MWC 9" with 4.1X gears. Its a 6 speed car as well. Just some real life advice.
yessir I know that. I wanna go 11.9s on stock rear and intake just to say I did. It’ll end up with 3.90s because it’s street driven a lot.
Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
I would go back to a 26" tire also
Also know this I put these on it because I got them from my buddy because the wouldn’t fit his gto, wheels and tires $400. When these are done I’m gonna go to an ET street R bias ply 26
I'm half surprised you didn't crack 11's with power mods you have listed but being a M6 it makes sense why you haven't hit 11s. I'd expect more MPH than your slip shows, but then again your suspension is lacking in a M6 as I'm sure you know. My car is an A4 so it's a bit more forgiving but I hit 11.9 with a slipping trans, stock heads and the same intake. Using the 60ft formula if you hit a 1.7 60ft you'd be able to run a 12.0.
How much does your car weigh?
I'd get some LCAs, relocation brackets and a better torque arm before buying an intake. If your injectors arena, at or above their optimal duty cycle then that would be a wise choice to make.
I wouldn't throw more power at in until you learn what the car likes in order to run the time it should as it sits because adding engine performance mods at the car while only make your 60ft issues get worse.
Something is up. My 00 cam only auto went 12.7 at 111 with some 245 humbo ecsta street tires. I dont even have a good converter. Maybe track prep was just bad? But burning the clutch isn't helpful either. You might be better off not launching like that lol.
I'm half surprised you didn't crack 11's with power mods you have listed but being a M6 it makes sense why you haven't hit 11s. I'd expect more MPH than your slip shows, but then again your suspension is lacking in a M6 as I'm sure you know. My car is an A4 so it's a bit more forgiving but I hit 11.9 with a slipping trans, stock heads and the same intake. Using the 60ft formula if you hit a 1.7 60ft you'd be able to run a 12.0.
How much does your car weigh?
I'd get some LCAs, relocation brackets and a better torque arm before buying an intake. If your injectors arena, at or above their optimal duty cycle then that would be a wise choice to make.
I wouldn't throw more power at in until you learn what the car likes in order to run the time it should as it sits because adding engine performance mods at the car while only make your 60ft issues get worse.
/.02
Suspension mods are going to have to come soon, I’m thinking LCAs and all the other “generic” suspension mods and some Viking coilovers instead of the original route of Strano lowering springs that I wanted to go. I think the biggest thing is gonna be really finding out exactly where and how it wants to launch, I’m installing a 2 step Saturday and gonna be testing it out again.
Originally Posted by trilkb
Something is up. My 00 cam only auto went 12.7 at 111 with some 245 humbo ecsta street tires. I dont even have a good converter. Maybe track prep was just bad? But burning the clutch isn't helpful either. You might be better off not launching like that lol.
Did you say your elevation?
Track elevation is about 1500+ DA any day it’s semi warm out.
Suspension mods are going to have to come soon, I’m thinking LCAs and all the other “generic” suspension mods and some Viking coilovers instead of the original route of Strano lowering springs that I wanted to go. I think the biggest thing is gonna be really finding out exactly where and how it wants to launch, I’m installing a 2 step Saturday and gonna be testing it out again.
Track elevation is about 1500+ DA any day it’s semi warm out.
Two step is a good place to start, but you might want to think about something other than your foot to control the hit of the clutch. With control over the hit of the clutch, you likely won't need the suspension mods or expensive shocks. Soften the clutch hit and everything else will come together with far less effort. In the end the car will be faster with radials, as a bonus you will be able to drive them to the track. Far less expensive overall, and the car will be more fun as a true street/strip ride.
I have a hydraulic clutch hit control system on my current car. It basically converts my hydraulically actuated clutch into a 2 stage system- initially the clutch hits on a softer 1st stage for the launch, then when the transition timer times out the 2nd stage of full clutch clamp pressure comes in to lock the clutch up. Setup is very straight forward and easy to understand, and I can change the intensity of the 1st stage hit by rotating a simple ****.
A few weeks ago I was experimenting with a 10.4" Ram dual friction organic/metallic disc, combined with a Ram 2800lb diaphragm PP. Normally a dual friction disc combined with a 2800lb pressure plate would be a super aggressive setup, but this one has it's hit softened by the system mentioned above. The car has a 2.78 1st gear, 3.73 rear gear, and 28" M/T 275 radials @ 28psi. The transition timer for the clutch was set to 1.0sec. I fired the car up, drove a few miles from the shop to warm the oil up a bit, then stopped to make a hit. Dead cold 275 radials on a random stretch of chip sealed county road, zero rubber down with no burnout at all. The 4500 clutch dump produced a dead hook launch with a peak of 0.98 G's @ 1.02sec. When the 2nd stage of the clutch kicked in at 1.0sec, it knocked the tires loose and as a result the accel G's dropped to .72.
I later did basically the same routine, except this time I bumped the transition timer setting up to 1.5sec. This time a 4900 clutch dump produced another dead hook launch with a higher 1.22 G peak @ 1.8sec in, well after the clutch's transition point. That simple addition of 0.5 sec to the transition timer setting improved peak accel by .24G's, also got the car to 50mph about .625sec quicker. No other changes between those two hits, just that .5sec addition to the clutch transition timer setting.
Dead hooked radials from a 4900rpm clutch drop on a random chip sealed county road with zero surface prep and no burnout at all. The dual friction disc doesn't complain at all about the 1.5sec slip time that it takes to bring it all together on the zero prep surface.
Two step is a good place to start, but you might want to think about something other than your foot to control the hit of the clutch. With control over the hit of the clutch, you likely won't need the suspension mods or expensive shocks. Soften the clutch hit and everything else will come together with far less effort. In the end the car will be faster with radials, as a bonus you will be able to drive them to the track. Far less expensive overall, and the car will be more fun as a true street/strip ride.
I have a hydraulic clutch hit control system on my current car. It basically converts my hydraulically actuated clutch into a 2 stage system- initially the clutch hits on a softer 1st stage for the launch, then when the transition timer times out the 2nd stage of full clutch clamp pressure comes in to lock the clutch up. Setup is very straight forward and easy to understand, and I can change the intensity of the 1st stage hit by rotating a simple ****.
A few weeks ago I was experimenting with a 10.4" Ram dual friction organic/metallic disc, combined with a Ram 2800lb diaphragm PP. Normally a dual friction disc combined with a 2800lb pressure plate would be a super aggressive setup, but this one has it's hit softened by the system mentioned above. The car has a 2.78 1st gear, 3.73 rear gear, and 28" M/T 275 radials @ 28psi. The transition timer for the clutch was set to 1.0sec. I fired the car up, drove a few miles from the shop to warm the oil up a bit, then stopped to make a hit. Dead cold 275 radials on a random stretch of chip sealed county road, zero rubber down with no burnout at all. The 4500 clutch dump produced a dead hook launch with a peak of 0.98 G's @ 1.02sec. When the 2nd stage of the clutch kicked in at 1.0sec, it knocked the tires loose and as a result the accel G's dropped to .72.
I later did basically the same routine, except this time I bumped the transition timer setting up to 1.5sec. This time a 4900 clutch dump produced another dead hook launch with a higher 1.22 G peak @ 1.8sec in, well after the clutch's transition point. That simple addition of 0.5 sec to the transition timer setting improved peak accel by .24G's, also got the car to 50mph about .625sec quicker. No other changes between those two hits, just that .5sec addition to the clutch transition timer setting.
Dead hooked radials from a 4900rpm clutch drop on a random chip sealed county road with zero surface prep and no burnout at all. The dual friction disc doesn't complain at all about the 1.5sec slip time that it takes to bring it all together on the zero prep surface.
@weedburner was that done on a 10 bolt, or does the 2 stage help keep the rear and drivetrain alive being a softer hit? Do you need a more aggressive clutch to handle the slip of the first stage?
It was on a 10 bolt and 28 spl axles. The 2 stage does help a lot with keeping the rear and drivetrain alive, and for some that's the most important benefit and all they are looking for. But that softer 1st stage actually makes the launch quicker as well by allowing you to walk the fine line between bog/spin.
It isn't necessary to have a more aggressive clutch to get positive results. But the more aggressive the clutch is, the more dramatic the transformation of the launch will be.
Two step is a good place to start, but you might want to think about something other than your foot to control the hit of the clutch. With control over the hit of the clutch, you likely won't need the suspension mods or expensive shocks. Soften the clutch hit and everything else will come together with far less effort. In the end the car will be faster with radials, as a bonus you will be able to drive them to the track. Far less expensive overall, and the car will be more fun as a true street/strip ride.
I have a hydraulic clutch hit control system on my current car. It basically converts my hydraulically actuated clutch into a 2 stage system- initially the clutch hits on a softer 1st stage for the launch, then when the transition timer times out the 2nd stage of full clutch clamp pressure comes in to lock the clutch up. Setup is very straight forward and easy to understand, and I can change the intensity of the 1st stage hit by rotating a simple ****.
A few weeks ago I was experimenting with a 10.4" Ram dual friction organic/metallic disc, combined with a Ram 2800lb diaphragm PP. Normally a dual friction disc combined with a 2800lb pressure plate would be a super aggressive setup, but this one has it's hit softened by the system mentioned above. The car has a 2.78 1st gear, 3.73 rear gear, and 28" M/T 275 radials @ 28psi. The transition timer for the clutch was set to 1.0sec. I fired the car up, drove a few miles from the shop to warm the oil up a bit, then stopped to make a hit. Dead cold 275 radials on a random stretch of chip sealed county road, zero rubber down with no burnout at all. The 4500 clutch dump produced a dead hook launch with a peak of 0.98 G's @ 1.02sec. When the 2nd stage of the clutch kicked in at 1.0sec, it knocked the tires loose and as a result the accel G's dropped to .72.
I later did basically the same routine, except this time I bumped the transition timer setting up to 1.5sec. This time a 4900 clutch dump produced another dead hook launch with a higher 1.22 G peak @ 1.8sec in, well after the clutch's transition point. That simple addition of 0.5 sec to the transition timer setting improved peak accel by .24G's, also got the car to 50mph about .625sec quicker. No other changes between those two hits, just that .5sec addition to the clutch transition timer setting.
Dead hooked radials from a 4900rpm clutch drop on a random chip sealed county road with zero surface prep and no burnout at all. The dual friction disc doesn't complain at all about the 1.5sec slip time that it takes to bring it all together on the zero prep surface.
Grant
First time ever reading about this, sounds pretty badass.
I’ve been back twice since the last post. First pass the first time back I went about 18” and broke an axle, another Fbody guy had one 5 miles down the road at his shop and we swapped it in the parking lot and went home.
Car now has 2 step, speed density tuned and I went to a 26” bias. First pass went 12.420, second went 12.085, 3rd pass was 12.011 @ 117 and last was 12.148 I was up with my buddy and got excited and dumped it and it bogged. Not the 11.9x i was hoping for but happy with what it did from where I started with all the same motor parts. Still can’t get the 60’ down where I want it which I’d have thought the 26s would’ve helped with.
05-27-2019, 02:00 PM
“Cam only” WS6 mid 12s 
