99 Firechicken

iTrader: (3)

Alright, so I've been looking at getting a bigger cam for my ls1. My current cam specs are 226/230 .585/.592 116+2, I also have stock 243 heads, ls6 intake, ported TB, 1-3/4 long tubes and full 3" true duals. My car made 374whp @6310 and 350wtq @4872 WFC on a mustang dyno, car spins to 6600rpm
I've been looking at the tick performance SNS stage 3 cam (235/243 .630/.610 111+2). What do you guys think? Is it worth the upgrade? how much more hp/tq would it make with this cam? just looking to have more fun/make a bit more power with this engine until I eventually sell it and build a 408 (which won't happen for a long while)

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I do not recommend a bigger cam. You are at stock compression. You would gain more maximizing your bolt ons. Better intake, bigger throttle. Free up the airflow

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Agreed. 37Xwhp seems light though given the cam and 243 heads.

stockA4

No no no you need a tighter lsa with more overlap, you have plenty of duration. 116 lsa sucks

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

374 whp is pretty decent on the typical mustang dyno.

The stock 78mm TB ported or not and the 78mm snout on the stock LS6 intake are probably the biggest issue.

I'd do one of the following plus a WARR 92mm TB:
a) TPIS/LPE 90mm snout mod for LS6 intake
b) sell the LS6 intake and get a Fast 90/92 intake

Likewise porting the 243's can Bosworth some power.

I'd skip the fat 235/243 111 ls cam with 17 degrees of overlap with your current LS1 set up. Nice cam for a big motor. Your 226/230 116 ls cam has like negative 4 degrees of overlap which makes for a very tame mild mannered cam. Those two cams are very different in driveablity and manners.

99 Firechicken

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for all the feedback!
I figured since my current cam is pretty mild and on a really wide lsa that going with a bigger cam would net me more power per $ over getting a fast intake setup. Also not sure how much I want to invest into cathedral port stuff as I plan to move to a square port once I build a 408.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Definitely understand that point of view but it's actually very close in cost.

$300 to $400 for new cam

$500 for intake update = $350 for 90mm snout for LS6 intake, and under $150 for WARR 92mm TB.

$500 for Used Fast 90/92 for $700 and under $150 for WaRR 92mm TB is $800 and then sell LS6 intake for $350.
$850 - $350 = $500

Later you'd be able to reuse the WARR 92mm TB or sell it
The Fast intake would resell fairly easily too.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

PLUS fluids and gaskets and potentially new pushrods

Or you could pick your intake for your 408 (102) and stay cathedral with some trick flow 245's.

Totally understand where you're coming from. I think your instinct is telling you that your cam is not good for your set up, and honestly you are correct, it isn't. Really, if you had a cam more in the range of 228/232-112+3, you'd be much happier with it. Your current cam is closing your intake valve far too late for your combination, and it is costing you precious torque. but to jump to a 235/243 with your compression would drive like a turd and still not make power, because a cam that large NEEDS compression to properly function. If you did that same 228/232 on a 113+4, it would drive a bit nicer vs 112+3 and still make a far more fun ride.

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

Bing...if more folks understood this then the LS1 can still be relevant in 2019. If anything, port and mill the heads. get the compression up over 11:1. Then address the induction and exhaust. You could gain another 80whp there opposed to maybe 20 peak with the larger cam which will drive like **** because of the dynamic compression and mid range power loss.

bortous

His right.
You would need to CNC your heads, raise your compression, and maybe use a fast intake for this camshaft to work properly.
243 heads can feel a bit lazy on an ls1 though..

YOKED

iTrader: (2)

That's a pretty blanket statement. Curious as to what combo you are referencing. End of the day it's all about the total package.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

The cam you have isn't great for stockish compression. But it's low overlap means it drives well. I wouldn't mess with it. I would add a turbo to your car... a 7675 with that cam would make a ton of power.

99 Firechicken

iTrader: (3)

How much would I actually gain by swapping to a cam like this?

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Not much peak horsepower but your midrange would be stronger so the car will feel a lot more powerful.

Enigma540

It'll put you over the 400 mark. As Darth is telling you, that wide LSA it what's killing you. (Plus the restricted air inlet/outlet). Closing the intake later allows for some intake reversion, and lowers your VE. Another big factor that some don't pay a lot of attention to is exhaust blowdown. You're losing quite a bit of torque by running such a wide LSA and opening the exhaust earlier. Basically, you're blowing extra torque right out the tailpipe. Hp, being a mathematical function of torque, will suffer because of that. Street/pump gas based engines just don't run the cylinder pressures (like more race oriented engines) that require blowing the exhaust early enough to assure complete evacuation of spent gasses. In a race engine situation, the low rpm torque loss of early blowdown is warranted, and a good trade-off. In a street/pump gas engine........the pressures/evacuation time just don't warrant it, so it becomes a hindrance. Open up the airflow pathway, tighten up the LSA, and you'll gain a little peak.........but you'll gain a lot more "under the curve (throughout the entire rpm range) and it'll be more punchy, more throttle responsive, have a lot more midrange, and be more fun to drive.

99 Firechicken

iTrader: (3)

So then, does anyone have any off the shelf cam recommendations? TSP is currently having a sale and the "Bald Eagle" cam seems to be pretty similar to what you guys are describing. I'm also starting to consider maybe having my 243's ported as well as investing in a better intake.
Thanks again for all this good info!

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

There are lots of shelf cams that will work. Idk bald eagle specs but 228r, steeetsweeper HT by Ed Curtis, titan4 by cam motion. Wa6store high lift asa cam, comp xer 273. There are others. Look for 226-228 intake duration and 112-114 LSA. If you can get this far in your search look for 43 degree Intake valve close at 050.

I def vote for getting your heads milled. Aim for 11.5:1 compression.

bortous

If you want to run this camshaft to run properly you will need CNC ported heads, a FAST intake and more compression. Probably around 11:8.1
Otherwise it will be a turd to drive with less torque and you may not even make more power either.
Do it right, and it will perform as intended.
Going from -1 degrees of overlap to 17 degrees will require a 3800rpm stall converter also if your car is an automatic.
If you have a stick good luck with the surging. You will need to change your driving style.
I would go with something with less overlap such as as a 232/240 113 LSA +2 so the overlap is more manageable (again if it is a manual)

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

BTR stage 2, Cam Motion Titan 4, TSP 228/232, Tick has a streetsweeper cam

99 Firechicken

iTrader: (3)

I've been looking at tick performances sns stage 2 cam for the ls2, and TSP's torquer v4 cam. Both cams are almost the same with a dagree difference on the exhaust and slightly different lift. Any feed back on these cams?
V4 specs are 231/234 .629/.615 111lsa(Ithink+2 adv)
And sns2 specs are 231/235 .625/.605 111+2 lsa
I Thought these cams would be a pretty good compromise between a big cam and a small cam, maintain good torque and still have nice numbers up top all while not sacrificing too much drivability.