4th Gen Camaro Haltech Rebel LS Install
4th Gen Camaro Haltech Rebel LS Install Good morning LS1Tech peeps,
So, I pulled the trigger on a Haltech Rebel LS w/ their 7" screen on Friday last week.
Texas Speed was having a killer sale on the Haltech Rebel LS and the 7" screen, both were $300 off saving me $600 which was too good to pass up.
My tuner said he couldn't even sell it that low and at that price it was actually below his cost, so his advice was to scoop it up.
The plan is to eventually go flex fuel, but I'll need to see if I can sell off all the support systems I no longer need to pay for the injectors / fuel line so for now I'll keep running pump gas / meth.
What I'm looking for here is install advice from folks who've done similar installs with aftermarket ECU's, Holley, Haltech, Fuel Tech, etc., in the 4th gen Chevrolet platform, tips, tricks, recommendations and potential pitfalls.
Can I / should I remove the factory PCM, what's involved?
Where should I mount the Haltech ECU itself? It's so tiny btw, 5"x7" which is great. (Thinking inside the cab but still have it be visible?)
Would now be a good time to change my Mac valve arrangement, currently running a single three port Mac valve with compressed air for boost control. (Thinking I'll at least buy a new one to sell the old one with the Cortex)
I've been told the Haltech can replace the Alky Controls Progressive controller, thoughts on this?
I don't see an input for the fuel level sender, could I use one of the AV1 inputs for this?
What else could I use the DP0 outputs for?
Below is a list of all the systems currently in use and which ones I intend on using the Haltech to control.
So, I pulled the trigger on a Haltech Rebel LS w/ their 7" screen on Friday last week.
Texas Speed was having a killer sale on the Haltech Rebel LS and the 7" screen, both were $300 off saving me $600 which was too good to pass up.
My tuner said he couldn't even sell it that low and at that price it was actually below his cost, so his advice was to scoop it up.
The plan is to eventually go flex fuel, but I'll need to see if I can sell off all the support systems I no longer need to pay for the injectors / fuel line so for now I'll keep running pump gas / meth.
What I'm looking for here is install advice from folks who've done similar installs with aftermarket ECU's, Holley, Haltech, Fuel Tech, etc., in the 4th gen Chevrolet platform, tips, tricks, recommendations and potential pitfalls.
Can I / should I remove the factory PCM, what's involved?
Where should I mount the Haltech ECU itself? It's so tiny btw, 5"x7" which is great. (Thinking inside the cab but still have it be visible?)
Would now be a good time to change my Mac valve arrangement, currently running a single three port Mac valve with compressed air for boost control. (Thinking I'll at least buy a new one to sell the old one with the Cortex)
I've been told the Haltech can replace the Alky Controls Progressive controller, thoughts on this?
I don't see an input for the fuel level sender, could I use one of the AV1 inputs for this?
What else could I use the DP0 outputs for?
Below is a list of all the systems currently in use and which ones I intend on using the Haltech to control.
- MSD Two Step / Haltech
- Meth kit (thinking I'll keep the AC progressive controller in place, I can add a transducer to the system to monitor pressure and create a safety using one of the SP1 inputs if the Haltech can accommodate?)
- Cortex EBC / Haltech
- AFR Gauge / Haltech
- Fuel Pressure Gauge / Haltech
- GM 3 Bar MAP Sensor / Haltech
- Dual Fuel Pumps / Haltech can activate the main pump, the second is on a Hobbs, thinking I'll just leave this as is.
- Electric Water Pump / Controlled by the Davies Craig controller
- Coolant Fans / Controlled by the Davies Craig controller
- Transmission Cooler Fan / On a manual switch (Haltech AV1 can turn this on at a set temp but would I have a manual on/off option through the screen for the track cool down?)
- A2W Coolant Pump / On a manual switch (I'm fine with leaving this manual)
- Transbrake / Haltech (Thinking AX25+ can be used for this or maybe one of the DP0 and a relay?)
- Air Compressor / On a manual switch, thinking I'll leave it manual as its just on all the time unless I'm running on gate pressure.
- Using two of the SP1 inputs, one for flex fuel and one for the wheel speed sensor for boost by speed.
Keeping your computer or not is up to you if you want to piggy back and still have OBDII response, for emissions purposes I suppose. But with a Haltech screen I don't see a need to piggyback...
The rest of those questions really need to be directed at your tuner because it all depends on what they are going to set it up for. I would say ditch the Hobbs though and control your 2nd fuel pump with the Haltech as long as you have enough outputs. You need to make a list of what you are feeding it and what you are outputting. The Rebel has
5 digital outputs (DPO)
4 digital inputs (DPI)
2 analogue inputs (AVI)
Also keep in mind that the iC-7 has the following that can be sent back and forth over CAN to the Rebel so you end up with a lot more ins and outs than you would think. There is a very slight lag over CAN though so for time critical things put those on the Rebel (like wheel speed sensors, transbrake buttons, etc.)
9 Analog Voltage Inputs (AVI)
3 Digital Pulsed Inputs (DPI)
4 Digital Pulsed Outputs (DPO)
The rest of those questions really need to be directed at your tuner because it all depends on what they are going to set it up for. I would say ditch the Hobbs though and control your 2nd fuel pump with the Haltech as long as you have enough outputs. You need to make a list of what you are feeding it and what you are outputting. The Rebel has
5 digital outputs (DPO)
4 digital inputs (DPI)
2 analogue inputs (AVI)
Also keep in mind that the iC-7 has the following that can be sent back and forth over CAN to the Rebel so you end up with a lot more ins and outs than you would think. There is a very slight lag over CAN though so for time critical things put those on the Rebel (like wheel speed sensors, transbrake buttons, etc.)
9 Analog Voltage Inputs (AVI)
3 Digital Pulsed Inputs (DPI)
4 Digital Pulsed Outputs (DPO)
Keeping your computer or not is up to you if you want to piggy back and still have OBDII response, for emissions purposes I suppose. But with a Haltech screen I don't see a need to piggyback...
The rest of those questions really need to be directed at your tuner because it all depends on what they are going to set it up for. I would say ditch the Hobbs though and control your 2nd fuel pump with the Haltech as long as you have enough outputs. You need to make a list of what you are feeding it and what you are outputting. The Rebel has
5 digital outputs (DPO)
4 digital inputs (DPI)
2 analogue inputs (AVI)
Also keep in mind that the iC-7 has the following that can be sent back and forth over CAN to the Rebel so you end up with a lot more ins and outs than you would think. There is a very slight lag over CAN though so for time critical things put those on the Rebel (like wheel speed sensors, transbrake buttons, etc.)
9 Analog Voltage Inputs (AVI)
3 Digital Pulsed Inputs (DPI)
4 Digital Pulsed Outputs (DPO)
The rest of those questions really need to be directed at your tuner because it all depends on what they are going to set it up for. I would say ditch the Hobbs though and control your 2nd fuel pump with the Haltech as long as you have enough outputs. You need to make a list of what you are feeding it and what you are outputting. The Rebel has
5 digital outputs (DPO)
4 digital inputs (DPI)
2 analogue inputs (AVI)
Also keep in mind that the iC-7 has the following that can be sent back and forth over CAN to the Rebel so you end up with a lot more ins and outs than you would think. There is a very slight lag over CAN though so for time critical things put those on the Rebel (like wheel speed sensors, transbrake buttons, etc.)
9 Analog Voltage Inputs (AVI)
3 Digital Pulsed Inputs (DPI)
4 Digital Pulsed Outputs (DPO)
I totally forgot about the screen inputs/outputs, at least I don't have to worry about running out of those lol.
Just saw the screen can accommodate a fuel level sender so that is great news.
I also forgot about turn signals, so I'll need an AVI or two for those.
Then two DPI's for speed sensors, one at the trans for driving and the front left for boost by speed.
I'm thinking I'll remove the PCM, it'll clean up the engine bay and if won't affect the rest of the car and I don't need OBDII function then why not.
Anything else you can think of?
Getting really excited now lol.
Thanks Nic!
Make sure your tuner sets up traction control since you will have a rear wheel speed and a front wheel speed, it's a game changer. I would personally add a couple of rotaries so you can adjust boost curves, traction control slip percentages, etc.
I assume you mean rotary *****, any particular brand or type rotary ***** you recommend?
Yes, pretty much any will work so you just need to pick ones that you like the look of. Haltech has these and they feel nice to me and work like any other one. https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-0...RcS5stxwKdjk7s Otherwise there are smaller ones out there as well.
Could I set it up so that if the Haltech is controlling the meth kit (removing the AC progressive controller), then I could have different boost settings with some activating the meth only when needed?
Like the lower numbers say 1-3 being lower boost pump gas only and higher numbers being higher boost with the Haltech activating the methanol because that would be pretty cool.
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Sweet!!
Could I set it up so that if the Haltech is controlling the meth kit (removing the AC progressive controller), then I could have different boost settings with some activating the meth only when needed?
Like the lower numbers say 1-3 being lower boost pump gas only and higher numbers being higher boost with the Haltech activating the methanol because that would be pretty cool.
Could I set it up so that if the Haltech is controlling the meth kit (removing the AC progressive controller), then I could have different boost settings with some activating the meth only when needed?
Like the lower numbers say 1-3 being lower boost pump gas only and higher numbers being higher boost with the Haltech activating the methanol because that would be pretty cool.
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Your turn signals, high beam, parking brake stuff all will connect into the back of the IC7 for those indicators. It's super simple. The fuel level will also connect into the IC7 but you will likely have to configure it in the software to read correctly. I think you are going to love the Haltech.
Of course, if stuff sells quickly, I'll just go straight to E.
Why would I lose power windows?
Turn signals and parking brake are covered but head lights should be a non-issue?
Your turn signals, high beam, parking brake stuff all will connect into the back of the IC7 for those indicators. It's super simple. The fuel level will also connect into the IC7 but you will likely have to configure it in the software to read correctly. I think you are going to love the Haltech.
Did you end up having to do something special to keep your power windows working?
I think you are just going to have to look up the wiring schematics for the BCM and double check. You are going to have to do that anyways with the BCM/PCM to make sure you aren't removing anything you really need assuming you are doing the Rebel install.
I've got a Chiltons manual I used when chasing down my short so I'm pretty familiar with the harness, I'm just going to take it slow.
Thanks Pete, I'm super pumped.
I've been watching videos on the Rebel and its pretty impressive what it can do for the price.
I can get rid of so much of the extra wiring for the fuel pumps and what not because the Rebel can control it all directly.
The self-tuning feature seems very cool but I'm not sure how that it will fare with FI applications, if I could use it for a lower boost pump gas tune and then get a dyno tune for E then that would be amazing.
I'm really thinking I'm just going to go all the way and swap to E rather than run pump/meth for a year.
Looking at the PCM pinout diagrams and it doesn't look like there is anything I really need to save?
There is no AC, no transmission controls needed, there are some power wires coming in that I'd need to cap off but I don't see much else.
I've been watching videos on the Rebel and its pretty impressive what it can do for the price.
I can get rid of so much of the extra wiring for the fuel pumps and what not because the Rebel can control it all directly.
The self-tuning feature seems very cool but I'm not sure how that it will fare with FI applications, if I could use it for a lower boost pump gas tune and then get a dyno tune for E then that would be amazing.
I'm really thinking I'm just going to go all the way and swap to E rather than run pump/meth for a year.
Looking at the PCM pinout diagrams and it doesn't look like there is anything I really need to save?
There is no AC, no transmission controls needed, there are some power wires coming in that I'd need to cap off but I don't see much else.