OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

I wanted people opinions on this because I already know what most calculators say (that don't factor in type of vehicle, aerodynamics, etc) My car is an LT1 Camaro building a 383 nitrous motor, AFR 227's, single plane, 12:1 JE's, Oliver rods, Lunati billet crank. 2 stages of nitrous 1 direct port jetted for 300, 1 plate jetted for 100.... FAST XFI standalone, TH400 with 4000 stall and a brake with 9" rear detroit lockered and 35 spline axles sitting on 28x10.5W's..... car is full caged and suspension is all BMR/Spohn/Wolfe Racecraft....

Most calculators say 850 RWHP is the mark. I'm thinking with a nitrous car of this level that it can be done with less than that since the torque of a 400 hit is going to be enormous.... and torque moves the car.... What do ya'll think is the mark for a fully setup drag car on 10" tires hookin hard????

Scott@DrivelineSolutions

iTrader: (22)

Your 850 rwhp is just about right on. I put down 740 rwhp and I went 9.33 at 148 in a 3320lb car last season so I fugure a 2nd stage with 100 shot will get me into the 8's.

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

Sweet..... Glad to see that the online calculators are accurate...

Slow Z28

iTrader: (19)

I know this is a bit off topic, but the calculator i like best, since it gives some cool information is:

http://www.nationaldrivetrain.com/calcs/dragcalc.html

Gives you what 1/8 mile could be, and what gearing fits with the rpm and tire size you are looking at. I know it's just a compilation of many calculators, but figured i'd post it

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

WOW, that is a cool calculator.... Here is the results I got for my combo...

HP-1000
Weight-3200 lb
Tire size-28
RPM thru traps-7500

It says I'll run 8.67@158.8mph with an 1/8 mile of 5.52..... And my optimum gear ratio is a 3.93 (I have 3.89's)

definitely good info to know.... seeing as how to run what i want to run i know i have good tire diameter and my gearing is right....

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

holy **** i punched in my info and it popped out a 7.48 in the 1/8th.. that is amazing cuz that is what my last run was!

lucky lil calculator it be

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Quick question, when it asks vehicle weight, does it want raceweight with you in it, or just the car? And also, for hp, does it want rwhp or horsepower at the motor? I wanna see what it says for my car, so if it wants horsepower at the motor, about what should 713 to the wheels through a turbo 400, heavy steel drive shaft and a 12-bolt be at the motor?

Slow Z28

iTrader: (19)

i did RWHP and I did the actual raceweight of the vehicle. My thinking is that's what the car is putting to the tire to drive down the track, and that's the weight the car is going DOWN the track since i'd be driving, haha. I just like seeing the 1/8 mile estimates.

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

I just did it with raceweight with me and rwhp, and it's way off, if I use raceweight with me and add 15% to my rear wheel (which i'm assuming is a ballpark estimate of drivetrain loss on the horsepower), then it's pretty close, maybe only .5 to 1 mph slower than what i've actually done. Cuz on 596 rwhp on 150 shot @ 3500 lb raceweight, she went 136.2x in the 1/4 and it said 135.9x. But if I put the actual rwhp of 596 on the 150 shot and raceweight of 3500, it said 129.xx, way off! I don't have a clean 1/4 mile pass on any shot other than the 150 so far really, so that's why i'm using that one.

Slow Z28

iTrader: (19)

see, the thing i don't think it takes into account would be converter efficiency, or quickness in shifting a manual, etc... but who knows what they are really looking for. oops, meaning that i wish they would tell you, haha

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

yeah it doesn't take into account converter efficiency and variables but just gives you an "optimum" condition ET and MPH... meaning if you had the right converter, launched it like it's stolen and shifted every gear dead on.... obviously a million variables will throw those #'s off like wind, DA, altitude, humidity, temp, driver error, tire psi, etc.....

But it's nice to know what the car is capable of with that HP....

And when they say HP it's DEFINITELY crank HP..... I put in my 525 RWHP (355 with a 150 shot old motor) and it said like 125 mph in the 1/4 weighing 3520.... That's way off..... I went 131 at that raceweight..I added the 23% drivetrain loss for a TH400 and high stall converter, big DS, and 9" and got like 670-680hp... i put that in and it said like 132-133..... very close...

Steve Gunn

Wouldn't 15% be closer to a 10 bolt with a manual?

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

I have no idea, I was just guessing.

Steve Gunn

Cool, nice car man!

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Thanks man!

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

8.99 thats a heavy beast movin that fast

Firechikn

iTrader: (15)

Wow, if this thing is even close, I'll be happy. 9.50's in the 1/4. I'm going to the track next week so we'll see. I may change jets to 250. I haven't sprayed at the track yet. I'd be happy with a high 10 sec pass.

CuNfUzEd

iTrader: (14)

HOLY ****!!!! Is this thing even close to being accurate?! It says my fat girl is a 9.3 at 145! Is anyone getting dead on #'s from this? All I have seen is 12's!lOL Granted I am babying her to keep the 10bolt in tact and am using a true radial to run, but still.

Slow Z28

iTrader: (19)

you just answered your own question then

At the weight, with certain power, that is what the car is capable of considering a perfect converter match, perfect launch, perfect air, etc... If you are missing a shift in the 6-speed, or not a 100% as fast as the automatic, and you aren't coming out of the hole 100%, that is ALL gonna mess up your numbers.

TheBlueGoose

Keep in mind that the calc. is going to give best case senerio. no tire spin no head wind, ect, use it for aprox times. My car went 8.9s weighing 3250? with around 700 750 rwhp spinning, spraying off the t-brake. just remember there is a whole lot more to a race car than just hp and tq