88 Mercruiser V6 reman problem..
10-26-2010, 06:15 PM
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88 Mercruiser V6 reman problem.. Hello all, I just joined this forum to maybe get some expert opinions on my ongoing nightmare...I have many posts on iboats.com and here are the threads to which I need some opinions.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=440363
I bought a reman V6, non vortec long block from a vendor in Miami or therabouts and have not gotten it to run past 2700revs on the water...if you read the posts, I have had many replies and suggestions and have acted on each and every one that was in my power. The last post in the thread suggests that the cam in it now may not be timed correctly which I plan to investigate further if I can get the vendor to tell me the specs, i.e., timing specs. So far, he does not answer. I still have the old GM cam from the previous block that met with sever frozen winters. The engine ran very good even with water and oil spewing from cracks that would release when the engine was good and warm, hence, new reman longblock....Any thoughts or suggestions that will make me look silly are welcome, I just need to get this project out of my backyard and back to Indianapolis where it belongs!
cheers and much respect for all you gearheads!
Kevoz
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=440363
I bought a reman V6, non vortec long block from a vendor in Miami or therabouts and have not gotten it to run past 2700revs on the water...if you read the posts, I have had many replies and suggestions and have acted on each and every one that was in my power. The last post in the thread suggests that the cam in it now may not be timed correctly which I plan to investigate further if I can get the vendor to tell me the specs, i.e., timing specs. So far, he does not answer. I still have the old GM cam from the previous block that met with sever frozen winters. The engine ran very good even with water and oil spewing from cracks that would release when the engine was good and warm, hence, new reman longblock....Any thoughts or suggestions that will make me look silly are welcome, I just need to get this project out of my backyard and back to Indianapolis where it belongs!
cheers and much respect for all you gearheads!
Kevoz
10-27-2010, 08:37 AM
#2
I read all 4 pages. I did not see in there once that the cap, rotor & wires were replaced. A cracked cap can cause this kind of problems.
Also, Don't go by the comp gauge to tell you how much comp you have. It does have to do with cam overlap. My dad's 500 inch Big Chief headed engines have about 15 to 1 and only pump about 180-200 on the gauge. That's b/c of the cam. It bleeds off cylinder pressure. I have had street engines with small cams that have had 200 or better.
Other than that, you have something that you are just overlooking. I would still say the cap and rotor if you havn't changed them yet.
Also, Don't go by the comp gauge to tell you how much comp you have. It does have to do with cam overlap. My dad's 500 inch Big Chief headed engines have about 15 to 1 and only pump about 180-200 on the gauge. That's b/c of the cam. It bleeds off cylinder pressure. I have had street engines with small cams that have had 200 or better.
Other than that, you have something that you are just overlooking. I would still say the cap and rotor if you havn't changed them yet.
10-27-2010, 02:12 PM
#3
well a lot of what you say on iboats doesn't make sense. then again a lot of **** on iboats doesn't make sense.
you said you got a longblock but when you received it you were happy to see great looking bores. So did you pull the heads off for some reason? Or what bore are you talking about? Or do you mean to say you got a short block and transfered your old heads to that? Then you mention about putting the roller rockers from the old engine onto this new one, so my first thought is you at least got lifter preload screwed up however that would not simply prevent the motor from getting over 3000 rpm without other symptoms. The smart thing to do would have been get the new motor running properly and broken in, then swap out your rockers. Now it's just one more variable that could be part of the problem.
You also mention checking microfische on autozone, what is that in reference to?
you ask if more runtime is needed for break-in and ring seal. No. the fact that a compression check shows 210 psi, provided your gauge isn't out of whack, means you have ring and valve seal.
you have an oil leak at rear of intake which tells me you didn't install the intake properly, there is no reason to have an oil leak when you have the chance of installing parts on an engine when on a stand. The front cover, valve covers, intake, should all be installed and be perfectly sealed otherwise you don't know what you are doing.
my money would be on the carb. you state "there was a staunch smell of gasoline around the engine", it's a rochester quadrajet, and you did not change the carb just removed/installed.
you said you got a longblock but when you received it you were happy to see great looking bores. So did you pull the heads off for some reason? Or what bore are you talking about? Or do you mean to say you got a short block and transfered your old heads to that? Then you mention about putting the roller rockers from the old engine onto this new one, so my first thought is you at least got lifter preload screwed up however that would not simply prevent the motor from getting over 3000 rpm without other symptoms. The smart thing to do would have been get the new motor running properly and broken in, then swap out your rockers. Now it's just one more variable that could be part of the problem.
You also mention checking microfische on autozone, what is that in reference to?
you ask if more runtime is needed for break-in and ring seal. No. the fact that a compression check shows 210 psi, provided your gauge isn't out of whack, means you have ring and valve seal.
you have an oil leak at rear of intake which tells me you didn't install the intake properly, there is no reason to have an oil leak when you have the chance of installing parts on an engine when on a stand. The front cover, valve covers, intake, should all be installed and be perfectly sealed otherwise you don't know what you are doing.
my money would be on the carb. you state "there was a staunch smell of gasoline around the engine", it's a rochester quadrajet, and you did not change the carb just removed/installed.
10-29-2010, 09:09 AM
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well a lot of what you say on iboats doesn't make sense. then again a lot of **** on iboats doesn't make sense.
you said you got a longblock but when you received it you were happy to see great looking bores. So did you pull the heads off for some reason? Or what bore are you talking about? Or do you mean to say you got a short block and transfered your old heads to that?
(new bores are visible from above and below, did not remove heads)
Then you mention about putting the roller rockers from the old engine onto this new one, so my first thought is you at least got lifter preload screwed up however that would not simply prevent the motor from getting over 3000 rpm without other symptoms. The smart thing to do would have been get the new motor running properly and broken in, then swap out your rockers. Now it's just one more variable that could be part of the problem.
You also mention checking microfische on autozone, what is that in reference to?
(it is a 4.3l GM v6, for parts detail)
you ask if more runtime is needed for break-in and ring seal. No. the fact that a compression check shows 210 psi, provided your gauge isn't out of whack, means you have ring and valve seal.
you have an oil leak at rear of intake which tells me you didn't install the intake properly, there is no reason to have an oil leak when you have the chance of installing parts on an engine when on a stand. The front cover, valve covers, intake, should all be installed and be perfectly sealed otherwise you don't know what you are doing.
(leak was from new gasket at base of distributor, not rear of intake, didnt want to seal it on stand due to turning it later to set timing while running)
my money would be on the carb. you state "there was a staunch smell of gasoline around the engine", it's a rochester quadrajet, and you did not change the carb just removed/installed.
you said you got a longblock but when you received it you were happy to see great looking bores. So did you pull the heads off for some reason? Or what bore are you talking about? Or do you mean to say you got a short block and transfered your old heads to that?
(new bores are visible from above and below, did not remove heads)
Then you mention about putting the roller rockers from the old engine onto this new one, so my first thought is you at least got lifter preload screwed up however that would not simply prevent the motor from getting over 3000 rpm without other symptoms. The smart thing to do would have been get the new motor running properly and broken in, then swap out your rockers. Now it's just one more variable that could be part of the problem.
You also mention checking microfische on autozone, what is that in reference to?
(it is a 4.3l GM v6, for parts detail)
you ask if more runtime is needed for break-in and ring seal. No. the fact that a compression check shows 210 psi, provided your gauge isn't out of whack, means you have ring and valve seal.
you have an oil leak at rear of intake which tells me you didn't install the intake properly, there is no reason to have an oil leak when you have the chance of installing parts on an engine when on a stand. The front cover, valve covers, intake, should all be installed and be perfectly sealed otherwise you don't know what you are doing.
(leak was from new gasket at base of distributor, not rear of intake, didnt want to seal it on stand due to turning it later to set timing while running)
my money would be on the carb. you state "there was a staunch smell of gasoline around the engine", it's a rochester quadrajet, and you did not change the carb just removed/installed.
Everything ran good when attached to cracked engine while on water.
11-17-2010, 01:27 PM
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well a lot of what you say on iboats doesn't make sense. then again a lot of **** on iboats doesn't make sense.
you said you got a longblock but when you received it you were happy to see great looking bores. So did you pull the heads off for some reason? Or what bore are you talking about? Or do you mean to say you got a short block and transfered your old heads to that? Then you mention about putting the roller rockers from the old engine onto this new one, so my first thought is you at least got lifter preload screwed up however that would not simply prevent the motor from getting over 3000 rpm without other symptoms. The smart thing to do would have been get the new motor running properly and broken in, then swap out your rockers. Now it's just one more variable that could be part of the problem.
You also mention checking microfische on autozone, what is that in reference to?
you ask if more runtime is needed for break-in and ring seal. No. the fact that a compression check shows 210 psi, provided your gauge isn't out of whack, means you have ring and valve seal.
you have an oil leak at rear of intake which tells me you didn't install the intake properly, there is no reason to have an oil leak when you have the chance of installing parts on an engine when on a stand. The front cover, valve covers, intake, should all be installed and be perfectly sealed otherwise you don't know what you are doing.
my money would be on the carb. you state "there was a staunch smell of gasoline around the engine", it's a rochester quadrajet, and you did not change the carb just removed/installed.
you said you got a longblock but when you received it you were happy to see great looking bores. So did you pull the heads off for some reason? Or what bore are you talking about? Or do you mean to say you got a short block and transfered your old heads to that? Then you mention about putting the roller rockers from the old engine onto this new one, so my first thought is you at least got lifter preload screwed up however that would not simply prevent the motor from getting over 3000 rpm without other symptoms. The smart thing to do would have been get the new motor running properly and broken in, then swap out your rockers. Now it's just one more variable that could be part of the problem.
You also mention checking microfische on autozone, what is that in reference to?
you ask if more runtime is needed for break-in and ring seal. No. the fact that a compression check shows 210 psi, provided your gauge isn't out of whack, means you have ring and valve seal.
you have an oil leak at rear of intake which tells me you didn't install the intake properly, there is no reason to have an oil leak when you have the chance of installing parts on an engine when on a stand. The front cover, valve covers, intake, should all be installed and be perfectly sealed otherwise you don't know what you are doing.
my money would be on the carb. you state "there was a staunch smell of gasoline around the engine", it's a rochester quadrajet, and you did not change the carb just removed/installed.
LMAO I thought I was the only one who thought that! There is not a thing on Iboats or almost any marine site that makes any sense, to top that off most of the people are arrogant ******.... Last edited by Project382; 11-17-2010 at 03:23 PM.
11-17-2010, 01:42 PM
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wow I just read part of that thread... I think the guy who made the 2nd post either has no clue what he's talking about or I just didnt read properly... from the info I have 4.3L non balance shaft engines thru 95 dont have adjustable valve train.. they have rocker studs with positive shoulders so you torque the rocker arm nuts to 20lbs or zero lash + 1 turn and go...
This interests me because I am also in the process of rebuilding my 4.3L Mercuiser engine, last year I got some 98 Vortec heads had cnc bowl work done to take advantage of the big valves got the 96+ 4.3L vortec head 4 barrel intake and slapped a 1409 edlebrock 600 cfm marine carb on with the 1485 (if i recall) calibration kit for a 4.3L engine.
I'm selling the edlelbrock carb if your interested (I need a blow through carb)?
I will guarantee this is a carb or timing issue, possibly a dying ignition component like a Thunderbolt IV ignition amplifier or distributor module (most of the time electrical crap works or it doesnt). I had the same thing happen to me last year. Boat started running like crap, back firing, poping then would not go past 3K then would not start... I had to test the MSD, the coil etc... sucks *** fixing your boat in the middle of the summer while its 98° out and your getting sea sick from the wake of other boats...
I also have a Thunderbolt IV ignition amplifer for sale (part has been discontinued from Merc if you can find one online they are over $200) i went to a locked out distributor and am using a MSD boost master so it is $100
This interests me because I am also in the process of rebuilding my 4.3L Mercuiser engine, last year I got some 98 Vortec heads had cnc bowl work done to take advantage of the big valves got the 96+ 4.3L vortec head 4 barrel intake and slapped a 1409 edlebrock 600 cfm marine carb on with the 1485 (if i recall) calibration kit for a 4.3L engine.
I'm selling the edlelbrock carb if your interested (I need a blow through carb)?
I will guarantee this is a carb or timing issue, possibly a dying ignition component like a Thunderbolt IV ignition amplifier or distributor module (most of the time electrical crap works or it doesnt). I had the same thing happen to me last year. Boat started running like crap, back firing, poping then would not go past 3K then would not start... I had to test the MSD, the coil etc... sucks *** fixing your boat in the middle of the summer while its 98° out and your getting sea sick from the wake of other boats...
I also have a Thunderbolt IV ignition amplifer for sale (part has been discontinued from Merc if you can find one online they are over $200) i went to a locked out distributor and am using a MSD boost master so it is $100
Last edited by Project382; 11-17-2010 at 03:27 PM.
