riplt1

I was just wanting to know which off the shelf heads had the best flow numbers. I know AFR has some really good heads as well as DART, etc. I just wanted to know if any of ya'll knew which head was the best?

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

Have been out of the gen I game for a long time now, but there are non conventional SBC heads that outflow all of the regular stuff like AFR and what not. Very pricey.

pancherj

Buy the AFR's...you will not be disappointed. you aren't just buying a flow number, you are buying a package: springs, retainers, guides, seats, etc all play a part.

Big bird55

iTrader: (1)

Dart pro 1s is what we ran on the 383 s10. Went 10.2s on motor and 8.9s on spray.

My person s10 got a set of trick flow gen 2 twisted wedges

riplt1

Non conventional heads?? Where would I go about buying some? And I don't mind having some head work done to them once I've purchased them. I want to have the heads milled anyway.

riplt1

Well I'm already running a pair dart iron eagle's equipped with pbn tripple valve springs and ferra valves. Because I'm running a decent size cam 248/252. Its just that I can't get the rpm's out of my heads that my cam needs.

So I could reuse the springs, and depending on intake valve size I might could reuse those.

riplt1

Were those DART pro1's worked with? Or out of the box?

Paul Huryk

There is no "best heads" for a SBC, there may be a "best head for your combo" that works 100%.

Case in point - mild 350 making 350hp does not need a 225cc CNC ported race head - it would require something more like a 180cc street head with the right intake and cam. Those same 180cc heads probably won't work well on a 525hp 406 motor as they won't flow enough to make the desired power. Same thing goes for race heads.

68SSJARHEAD

I dont know all the details about my engine my dad bought it from a legit circle track guys shop that race for a livig. My dad passed three weeks later while I was off for the Marine Corps. But what I do know is I have a built 355 thats a solid street/strip motor....runs on 93 pump gas forged internals. ....the New RHS Vortec heads is what I run with an edelbrock dual plane Air Gap Intake 750 DP Holley Carb elec choke matched with a Magnum 280H Comp Cam.....havent been to the dyno yet but its around the 430-440hp mark (at the crank)....bang for buck man I would check out a set of RHS Vortecs....they flow great and unless you are all out making it a race car save a few dollars cuz AFRs are NOT CHEAP.....cast iron is heavier though....hope this helps

riplt1

Well I have an iron block 383. Its got a blue printed and balanced eagle rotating assembly. I found a guy on here that was real good with carb'ed engines. He grinded a nitrous cam out for me. duration @ .50- 248* int/ 252* exhst. .586 lift with .5 rockers. On a 110 lsa. Right now, like I said I'm running the DART iron eagle platinums w/ 230 cc runners, 2.080 intake valve, 1.60 exhst. I had to cut corners on the heads for money issues.

So with that setup Do you know how big of runner/ valve size should I run? And I also have a plate kit ready to go. I just want to make sure everything is right before I spray.

riplt1

Oh and its a fully forged bottom end.

pancherj

You're running a triple spring with that cam? That doesn't sound right. If the engine won't pull RPM's, it could be ignition related or valve train related. I have no experience with the Iron Eagles, but have had several sets of AFR and they work. But the whole combo needs to work with them. My current 1990 IROC runs deep in the 11's on pump gas with a 355 and hydraulic roller.

riplt1

The engine doesn't have any problems reving to 7000 rpm. And when I bought my valve train I was planning on getting the dart pro1's. But I bought a used pair on here that were trash. So I went ahead and bought a cheaper pair because I ran out of money.

cuisinartvette

Im confused. Say it revs to 7k but in an earlier post it says
Maybe expecting too much out of a hydraulic cam imo
230cc is plenty big for a 383.

pancherj

7000RPM may be it for that engine and 383 cubic inches. I have a slightly smaller hydraulic roller in my 350 and it peaks at 6400 and I shift at 7000 (with a light, dual spring setup). It doesn't say what style cam you have (hydraulic, solid, roller, etc), so I am just speculating.

Paul Huryk

230cc heads are really big for a 383 - unless you want to make peak power at 7k. You are going to lose a lot of TQ down low compared to a 200cc (or 210cc head of similar design).

Now just because it can rev to 7,000 doesn't mean it has the optimal cam and/or head combination to make max power. The ideal 6k peak 383 will use a 195cc head and hydraulic roller and make about 500hp with good bottom end and streetability.

Big bird55

iTrader: (1)

The pro ones where out of the box. We planned on down the road having work done to them

J.D.

interesting info. I have a 78 vette with a pretty fresh 350. supposed to have 290 hp at rear wheels. will be looking into aluminum heads , cam and probably a torque converter too. has a 700 r4 trans with 3:55 gears. looking to get another 80 to 100 hp with heads and cam. need to pull heads off and see what pistons are in it. chrome side pipe headers will be added too.

riplt1

Well my engine physically revs to 7000 rpm. But if the heads have low flow numbers it'll only make power to say 5800 rpm when my cam needs 6500 or 7000rpm. I'm just saying right now my heads don't match my cam. I want to find the right heads for my cam.

My cam is a hydraulic roller too by the way.

riplt1

Well Loosing low end is not that big of a deal. I'm running a t56.

I had an engine builder on here design my cam and shipped it to me. He said with heads that flow 320+ cfm it should make power to 6800 or so. And only fall off a little til 7200. Here is the cam card.

Here are your came specs:

Advertised duration Int.- 304* Exh.-312*
Duration @.050" Int.-244* Exh.- 252*
Lift w/1.6 rockers Int/Exh .584"/.584"
LSA 111*
ICL 107*

Overlap Adv. Dur. 86*
Overlap @.050" Dur 26*

IVO IVC EVO EVC
Adv. Dur. 45* 79* 91* 41*

@.050" Dur. 15* 49* 61* 11*