Strictly Attitude

Ok so I am here for a couple of good reasons one I feel I can share some good info and answer some questions. At the very least shine some light on some questions I had and can answer now due to countless hours of research and a good support system.


Let's start with my base which is what the original engine, chassis, trans, and rear end as all these things are a combo and should work together.


Original Engine
355 SBC
4.030 speed pro forged flattops 2256 .030 stamped on the piston
AFR 195 Street Eliminator #1034
Edelbrock RPM air gap
750 Edelbrock performer
1:5 full fulcrum roller Rockers
Mystery Crank and Mystery Rods
Isky solid 201535
274/274 advertised 246/246 at .050 with .535/.535 lift on a 108 lsa
mid tube ceramic headers 2.5 dual h-pipe was a flowmaster stainless now has borla 19" xs mufflers
Ignition is MSD 6A box to a pro billet MSD vacuum advance distributor


Transmission:
700r4
Manual reverse pattern tci valve body
an bunch of upgrades to make it handle power if you really wanna know ask
a 2600 Rev Max stage 3 converter with a carbon lockup clutch upgrade


Rear End
10 Bolt 8.5" 2.56 gears right now that is next on the chopping block for this 1972 Chevelle GM A-Body


So this Engine about a year and a half ago overheated due to a melted electric fan fuse it then lost enough coolant to where I did not realize it heat seized the engine and ate the bearings strait out of it no pics of the carnage yet it sits in the car still assembled while I build my new engine.


Well at the time I was in the middle of my current build you know how it goes always building it up. So I had been on the fence ready to jump into an efi setup had just done the cam change. So I was constantly crunching numbers trying to figure out what would be the cheapest way at the same time watching eBay for stand alones and thinking about the mega squirt. You know just trying to figure out how I was gonna make it happen as $2500 to $3000 was just out of the question even had won a fast throttle body EZ efi on eBay but family responsibilities had me have to sell it. But I ended up winning the auction on a pantera EFI 882c and for real cheap lets just say I stole this ECU at the price I got it for. So now I had this ECU a couple of discs no wiring harness I had no real clue what I even had bought at that point so I went about finding out what I got so I hunted down all the info I could on this ECU finding out it could do sequencial and run coil per cylinder. There opened the can of worms. I sent Lance from Pantera EFI an email told him I got his ECU off eBay and appreciate any help he could provide for me supplied the numbers off the unit and he let me know what I had. At the time the engine was running and I was thinking going the turbo route at the time not very thought through. But I had an ECU it was installed with a 2.5bar MAP for Turbo so though I would start with the fuel system. I talked to Lance and he supplied me with a fuel pump I had started buying other parts on the net as a fuel system is great place to start need to be able to provide ample pressure for efi and it can be installed while I cruise my current setup. I bought an AEM wideband cause it also has a controller built in that would work with the ecu to provide a true wideband for the ECU. So I got 2 15' lengths of 8AN aeromotive socketless and a bunch of AN fitting drew up a diagram to figure it out even bought some bulkheads. I got an aeromotive fuel regulator that came with 2 springs one for carb pressures the other for efi pressures. So by this time I had talked with Lance a couple times on the phone. I really enjoy talking to him he is always shining some light on one of my questions. Plus believe me I do my homework that included on him seeing he developed the ECU. To say the least google Lance Nist and read some of his articles out there. Well I told him I would give him my business on every thing I could within reason I mean if I could find it cheaper I would and he has always taken care of me beating allot of prices I have found online. But I started by buying one of his Fuel Filters and a fuel Filter from him.


The Car and Engine currently really hurt



Stock photo of my fuel cell

My fuel regulator

The AEM Wideband

fuel filter I purchased through Lance at Pantera EFI

The Billet Fuel Pump I got from him also came with mounting hardware and wiring







More to come tomorrow

Strictly Attitude

So the fuel system was ready to go in right before the engine seized up. So as life would have it I was not in a good spot and let’s just say this engine seizing took thewind right out my sails. I had a block in the garage from when my father owned this car we replaced the engine as the one in it had developed a knock. I had already torn it down and had it magnifluxed as I had planned on building it into a 383. It is a 1971 block probably original to the car it was stamped CGC on the pad and is a 010 block. Well about a year and a half later my friendand I were hanging out talking cars and the Chevelle came up. Glad it did because it was put on the backburner. But we talked and I was saying what happened and my plans. He offered to help and said I could use his garage. So I talked to him about bringing the block there because we would hangout and he would work on his car. So I figured might as well work on my block instead of just watching him work. We all know how that goes most of the time you help your friend by that 3 minutes he needs to lift some thing or hold something and give moral support like “You need another beer?”. So I started in on the lifter deck opening up the rear oil passages and redirecting the oil to back of the block. I am going to clean up the whole lifter valley. I also started with the distressing of the block. I still have a lot to go but I am ok with that. The engine has been to the machine shop now and has splayed caps with ARP studs and bolts installed. I have some of the pictures from a few weeks ago of the main caps installed after it got back from the machine shop and some of the work I have done in the lifter valley. I am farther along then in the pictures but there is a lot more to get done still. I have plans of installing a Moroso lifter valley kit and some magnets also.

JoeNova

What does this have to do with a Speedmaster intake?
I take it you're converting to fuel injection and plan on going with their intake?

I just used their heads and intake on a 454. No complaints.

Strictly Attitude

I will get to that part but yes you are correct and I do already have the intake along with almost all the other parts. Just trying to type this all up and document is a little time consuming not the fastest on the ole keyboard!! I guess I should have reworded it a little different "383 build with speedmaster down draft intake"

Strictly Attitude

Now I decided I would get the EFI tackled at the same time so I bought a Holley 60-2 used off eBay and got a hold of Lance again. We discussed getting my firmware updated and told him where I was going with the build plus I needed a harness for the ecu. Well after some discussion he offered to change the MAP in ecu as originally I was going to go turbo and the ecu had a 2.5 BAR MAP in it that was no longer needed for the NA route I was taking now. He also set up the ECU to work with sensor from the Holley wheel mainly for the mounting hardware. I told him I needed a wiring harness he supplied that with the builder style I asked for. I had the money at the time to do coils so we discussed the options there and he supplied me with LS1 gen 4 coils to use at a great price. He also helped out with a couple of the temp sensors I would need to run the ecu.
Wiring harness and coils

Temp sensors with the proper connectors

Holley 60-2 wheel and sensor

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi John, A crankshaft Target Wheel should NEVER be "slotted" , it needs to be LOCKED into position.

Pick one of the "slots" then weld the hole to the bolt size.
This, if done, will NOT allow future timing changes.

The Redline ECU-882C allows "trim" in software, not too sure about Holley.

Those who know Holley's ECU could be of help, if NO "trim" adjustment is possible, I will contact Doug F. at Holley.

Lance

Strictly Attitude

I will tig the slider in place after I mach it up!!

Strictly Attitude

So I had by accident had a mix up and over paid Lance for some of those parts neither his nor my fault just a basic misunderstanding that happened. But we worked it out and put the extra money in starting to purchase my rotating assembly starting with 6" forged h beam connecting rods. Very nice pieces and they balanced out beautifully. I know I got the big end/small end with in .1 gram and the overall weights matched to .01 gram. This was the initial weights of them when they arrived here.
15D 543- 642.93 gr.
15D 652- 643.53 gr.
15D 386- 642.72 gr.
15D 315- 643.14 gr.
15D 662- 643.30 gr.
15D 640- 642.99 gr.
15D 225- 643.03 gr.
15D 015- 641.05 gr.
These were the overall weights so not accurate for balancing purpose just a general idea.

They were weighed on a metler scale that was calibrated by metler that week.

Strictly Attitude

There was also these that I had ordered around the same time. None of these items were sourced through Lance but found searching out deals on the ole interweb. Granted keep in mind at this time I was not sure which intake I was gonna run it was a toss up between the holley stealth ram and the speedmaster ITB downdraft intake. But I knew what I size injectors I needed and some of the other key components needed for the EFI system. So first up is the Ford 39lb injectors I speced for the efi system they should be just about perfect for the hp I think this engine will be around.
More info on the injectors

• 39 lb/hr, 4-hole, high-impedance fuel injector with USCAR electrical connector

• Original equipment on 2003-2004 SVT Mustang

INJECTOR NOTES:

• Medium length injectors are for use in GT500 or Ford GT. We also use the MU32 in our 3v supercharger kits.
• The long injectors are the more common length and are applicable to all non-GT500 Mustangs since multi-port injection was introduced

About electrical connectors:

• The USCAR connector is sometimes referred to as EV6, which is a Bosch term for the generation of injector.
• Jetronic is the older style connector, sometimes referred to by the Bosch generation EV1.
• Neither EV1 or EV6 is technically correct because those generations of Bosch injectors could come with either connector. However most EV1's commonly seen use the Jetronic connector and most EV6's use the USCAR connector so it's easy to see the connection.

Ford injector flow rates are quoted at a delta pressure of 39.15 psi
so 41.1 lb/hr. at 43.5 psi

ideal for 525hp and using fuel pressure you can tune them to different hp levels


These are the molex connectors for the EV6 injectors still need the rubber grommets I will be ordering more metri-pack connectors for my wiring. Buying in bulk is allot cheaper then ebay kits.


And my second wideband sensor these are nice cause they will convert to lamda for my ecu. They use the 4.9 Bosch O2 super accurate and fast.

Strictly Attitude

So it had officially begun decisions on my part were made I had previously thought about a 396 and also a 383 setup had both parts lists already made and in a drawer for both setups. I went with the 383 only cause I really did not want to risk having to grind the block where I might need to fill it plus I was not sure if I was going to reuse my cam which was on the smaller base circle. Plus my overall goal of this car is not a drag strip car even though it will see the strip. That is not where I want to shine the brightest. I really plan to do track days at the New York Safety Track and Lime Rock with the car. So I am basing my performance mods on that. I know there are allot better track cars to start with but it is a double duty car that will see track days maybe twice a year maybe more we will see how it goes.


So I had done my home work and discussed every thing with Lance on what I wanted to buy he would give suggestions here and there. I tend to listen when someone who has seen more and done allot more then I have with engines speaks. I am not say blindly follow as I do my homework on my parts and his suggestions but so far he has shown my best interests and we have built trust and a friendship after working on the project and having many discussions. At this point I asked him his opinion and what my fears were on the Speedmaster downdraft. I am sure you guys all know Lance has the ITB for the LS so I but I wasn't sure if he had seen one in person. I asked him and he told me he had not, I told him I would not mind it if I had to put in a few hours of port work and time setting up the linkage. So with knowing that info he said it would be a good buy for my application. So that was put down on the list. A couple weeks later I told Lance I was ready to get the camshaft and intake out of the way. So I could get them crossed off the list. I had decided to run a lite weight crank figured putting a little more money in a strong lite lower end is good money invested. We also discussed having the crank balance before he shipped it. I said that would be great. So I got him the big end little end numbers on the rods. Let him know the part numbers on the bearings I would need and we figured out which pistons we would be running. The pistons were acquired along with all the other parts needed to balance the rotating assembly. Shortly after I got some pics of my parts from him. I have them now in my possession but here are the pics sent to me shortly after our discussion.
Here was the scale and stand I used to balance my rods with.

These are the pics of the crank, pistons, king xp bearings, intake








I talked to him on the phone as he called me to let me know that he had the parts in and I had a new email with some nice pics in so I was excited to say the least to find out more about the intake on how much work it was going to take. To my surprise he state the linkage was good nice and tight along with being well aligned. I asked bout the ports he stated they are not that bad but he would port them anyways to get any hidden hp out of them which I definitely plan to do. I have some good pictures of the actual ports I will share later.

Strictly Attitude

I got the block back from the machine shop with my splayed caps installed and continued my grinding and modifications to the oiling system, flash removal, and distressing of the block. as I plan to bring the rpms up to 7000rpm. I also have received all my parts from pictured above by this time and have some pictures of the ports. I was supposed to go work on the block earlier this week but my sons mother has been sick with 103 fever so I have been on little boy duty. It is tough she works nights and I do days. So garage time when it happens is all business. Here are some picture of the ports I will be doing port matching on them in the future to fit them as close as I can to my heads. I will also post more pictures of work on the engine as it happens. If any one has pictures they would like to see let me know so I can get them. I might also do a video on the intake as I searched the web to find more on this intake but seems not much documentation is out there.









the holes up by the throttle body butterfly is the injector hole and the lower hole in the port goes to the common plenum for an accurate MAP signal. The linkage is tight and seems to work very well and in sync.

Strictly Attitude

I 4 cornered the block Wednesday and got some more pics for you guys. I did not have a bridge available to me so I will purchase one before final assembly as I am still in the mock-up stage working out clearances before sending back to the machine shop to be zero decked. There are allot spots that need to be clearance for the bolts. I came up with cylinder #1 .018 in the hole #7 .024 in the hole #2 .024 and #8 .021. I have some more drilling and tapping to do also. There is not much room to do much port work on the intake but I will do what I can. I also wanted to share my some pics of my 1092RR Kevko road race pan I plan to run ordered it with a dipstick provision.

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi John, you should have a deck @ +.007".
You should measure in the center of the piston due to "rock"

Lance

Strictly Attitude

I went with the idea I was gonna zero deck the block anyways after talking to the machine shop it would have cost $35 to measure deck height and around $100 to have it planed for zero deck the pistons where measured using the rock method where I measure low then high added together divided by 2. Did this on both sides of the pistons 2 times each side of the piston took the averaged numbers.

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi John, time to call.
My guess for "tech" would be education about measurement.

Lance

Strictly Attitude

I will remeasure with a bridge. I will measure at the center next time instead of with the piston rock. I knew I would be remeasuring but because I was using the magnetic stand at the time I wanted to keep movement minimal. I still have clearancing to do and more mock-up. I realized a couple mistakes that could have been done differently. It is not at 9" deck height yet like we discussed when ordering pistons it is still at factory deck unless previous owner of the car had work done. The next time I measure I will use a magnetic bridge. Also will have both opposing pistons in there holes to make sure the rod is in it's proper spot on the crank.

Strictly Attitude

So last week I was able to use my new bridge and get some accurate deck height measurement before having the machine shop zero deck the block. Here are the measurements of each piston in the hole.
1-.026
3-.026
5-.02575
7-.0255

other deck
2-.026
4-.025
6-.021
8-.018

I also had my 1/4"npt tap break off in one of the lifter valley holes. I was able to remove by heating up with a map gas torch and using a chisel to back it out. But getting closer on this build every week. I have sold my old AFR 195 street heads and have sourced a set of AFR 210 head that are in good condition. My friend Brian helped me out as he was close to where they were located. He went and inspected them and picked them up for me. They did end up being an older casting AFR even though they were thought to be only 4 years old the previous owner did not know this. He was an older gentleman who drag raced a rail had the heads on a 355 but the chamber size of 76 was killing his compression. So I have a head that will flow about the same as my old ones but not stall out. I am pretty sure I am not going to keep them either as the chamber is larger then I like and I have a another head I want to run on this that would be worth the wait. We will see still in the decision making stage on these. Either way engine can go to machine shop have final machining done and assembly of the short block can start. I am a firm believer of waiting and getting what I want for parts over rushing. It eliminates that I wish I had just did that from the picture.

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi John, the Head Gasket @ .038" is common, is this the one you will fit ?

The strong rod/forged crankshaft/tight forged Autotec Piston will see less rock/stretch.
The piston deck of +.008" will provide a .030" Squish, should be safe for your Max RPM.

Your measurement method seems correct.

This will provide a 10:1 CR.

Lance

Strictly Attitude

Lance,
Yes I do plan to measure again after getting the block back from the machine shop. And keeping Squish right around .030 mark. I am not planning on running those heads and will switching back to a 65cc chamber unless you feel I would be better off with the larger chamber. As you probably realize or have gotten to know about me I prefer to save a little money up and get what I really want or what I think will be best for my engine. I am not a fan of looking back and wondering what if. I am also not a fan of leaving any power on the table. I will be in touch soon as I still am going to need software from you and probably some other parts still. Thanks you have been a great help in the whole process. I haven't had a chance to look how are some of your projects coming along? 10,500rpm and Hp Alternator love innovation keep pushing the envelope and thinking outside the box!!

Strictly Attitude

I am still gathering parts the latest addition is the solid roller lifters I will be running.

I have been gathering up all my pennies for the next big purchase on this project as things are getting closer and closer. So my list is narrowing down I sold those other heads for what I paid for them cause I was not a fan of the chamber size and the springs on them where for a solid flat tappet. Both no good for my set up but good deal for the guy that bought them for his superchargered engine. The seats were good he had his builder with him to examine the heads before purchase. They CCed out exactly at 75cc as advertised. But the new heads will be purchased new. I would have already bought them but buying the lifters dug into the head funds. But sometimes you have to jump on a deal when it presents itself.
So here is my list in order.
1. Purchase heads will share my choice after purchase is made.
2. Camshaft purchased I am tossing between three vendors on a custom ground camshaft. LSM Engineering (http://www.lsmeng.com/), Jones Cams ( http://jonescams.com/) or Isky Racing (http://iskycams.com/)
3. Rocker arms I will be running full fulcrum stainless more then likely Comp Magnum. I would like some Scorpion shaft rockers but we will see how money is at the time.
4. Pushrods a quality reputable brand will be used.
5. I may run a rev kit will read more on it.
6. Oil pump and sump I have not made a decision on this yet.
7. Timing Cover I have a bunch of cheap chrome style ones but running the solid roller was thinking of stepping that up this year to cloyes 9-221
8. Head Gaskets, Intake Gasket, Valve cover gaskets if I bother still have reusable ones from last engine- already have my pan gasket and my water pump is o-ring and the timing cover should come with gasket.