This forum seems to center on the area of my question.
#1
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This forum seems to center on the area of my question.
Given that lifters can bleed down, how can I be sure I didn't add too much preload while adjusting them? I notice by the time I get through all 16 lifters the first one is a little loose again. How can I establish a good baseline on which to begin.
The engine we have is a new 350 crate motor built by a reputable shop and sold through Summit Racing. It came with a dyno sheet printout and a warranty. It also included many tips on how to prep it and how to break it in, which we did as directed. When we first started the engine we immediately noticed oil vapor coming out of the filler cap on the left valve cover. The pcv is on the right side so apparently the carb vacuum inhaled whatever vapor was escaping on the right side. As the engine was warming up, the temperature taken on the header right near the head was much cooler on cylinders #1 and #6. After about 10 to 12 minutes we shut it down, sensing something was not right.
We had a slight oil leak at the back of the intake, after careful installation, so we decided to give it a do-over. It might help to mention this engine is sitting in a beautiful 1941 Ford Pickup, which is waiting to hit the street and some quality car shows. Okay, so it's not an LS-1 or a Camaro/Firebird platform ... but the engine was born for that application. Any help will be forever appreciated!
Thanks,
Jerry
The engine we have is a new 350 crate motor built by a reputable shop and sold through Summit Racing. It came with a dyno sheet printout and a warranty. It also included many tips on how to prep it and how to break it in, which we did as directed. When we first started the engine we immediately noticed oil vapor coming out of the filler cap on the left valve cover. The pcv is on the right side so apparently the carb vacuum inhaled whatever vapor was escaping on the right side. As the engine was warming up, the temperature taken on the header right near the head was much cooler on cylinders #1 and #6. After about 10 to 12 minutes we shut it down, sensing something was not right.
We had a slight oil leak at the back of the intake, after careful installation, so we decided to give it a do-over. It might help to mention this engine is sitting in a beautiful 1941 Ford Pickup, which is waiting to hit the street and some quality car shows. Okay, so it's not an LS-1 or a Camaro/Firebird platform ... but the engine was born for that application. Any help will be forever appreciated!
Thanks,
Jerry
Last edited by Custom Works/Jerry; 05-29-2017 at 06:38 PM. Reason: I wanted to provide more information.
#2
10 Second Club
There's a sequence you have to do to make sure both valves on a cylinder are closed before you adjust them.
Then, with the rocker loose, keep tightening the rocker while spinning the push rod. Once you feel drag on the push rod that's zero lash. Go an extra 1/2 turn from there. Done
Then, with the rocker loose, keep tightening the rocker while spinning the push rod. Once you feel drag on the push rod that's zero lash. Go an extra 1/2 turn from there. Done
#3
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There's a sequence you have to do to make sure both valves on a cylinder are closed before you adjust them.
Then, with the rocker loose, keep tightening the rocker while spinning the push rod. Once you feel drag on the push rod that's zero lash. Go an extra 1/2 turn from there. Done
Then, with the rocker loose, keep tightening the rocker while spinning the push rod. Once you feel drag on the push rod that's zero lash. Go an extra 1/2 turn from there. Done
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Glenn ***
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Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
#4
Launching!
some bleed down or compress easy some dont
If you can try moving the pushrod up and down til it doesnt do it anymore add your preload and youre done. If its "loos" later dont worry about it.
If you can try moving the pushrod up and down til it doesnt do it anymore add your preload and youre done. If its "loos" later dont worry about it.