BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Looking for input on a quality rebuild kit for a 96-98 5.7 vortec 350. I see some standard rebuild kits using the factory crank and rods for about $500. Now after coming from the LS world that seems like too low a cost to get decent parts. This will not be a max effort big power build by any means and I know parts for the older 350 are alot cheaper. Has anyone ever used one of the kits in that price range? It will be a daily driver used to tow as well. I would be happy with a solid 350+hp end result for this build. That's well within the rest of the stock fuel system capabilities which is very important to help keep my overall cost down. My cam selection can be used with the stock stall as well. I'll be using my stock engine from my 97' Z71 for this build so my tahoe isn't down. If it turns out as planned, I'll do it over again for my truck when I pull the tahoe stock engine.

My build plan was this:

Rebuild stock shortblock with hone to a 355ci
ARP rod & head bolts
ARP main studs
Port/polish stock lower intake (egr delete)
Port/polish stock tb
Port/polish stock heads (possibly go summit/dart vortec heads depending on final cost comparison between both)
MPFI spider injector upgrade
Summit shorties (non egr)
411 pcm swap
GM performance 395 cam (standard HT383 or Ramjet 350 cam)

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi Mike, first read the thread below " Speedmaster" with a SBC 383 build.

There are some items that I do not understand, the Hone "oversize" will require pistons/rings +.005".
Would the $500.00 kit have that piston size ?
I could provide a forged RaceTec Piston kit (+.005" with rings), King Rod bearings, King Main bearings for $600.00 FOB.
I could provide the Timing Set.
I could provide the studs/bolts.
I could provide the Summit items as I am a vendor of theirs.

Lance

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

The kits I was looking at are sold on summit:
Federal Mogul Premium Engine Rebuild Kits MHP125-300

I have done some reading on the Summit heads and it has been discovered they are really made by Dart as a replacement head with screw in rocker stud provisions, thicker decks and stainless valves. Cost is pretty affordable for heads. Has anyone checked valve runout on a set outta the box? Are they at least within spec of not needing to have a valve job done before installation?

biketopia

iTrader: (5)

For just a mild build like that why go for the added expense of studding it? A set of arp bolts would be plenty of insurance that nothing would go wrong for a 350 horse engine i would have to think. Have you checked out the Jegs vortec heads http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...14005/10002/-1 For the price, about 100 cheaper than summit, they don't seem bad at all,I was going to use them on my build but found a set of 062's in great shape with an intake for a price I couldn't pass up.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

No, I hadn't looked at the Jegs set, wonder if it's the same case with those, made for Jegs by a known aftermarket supplier like the Summit heads.

I'm sure the ARP head bolts would be fine too, I'm not against them. But if I can find a deal on a stud set I'll use those. Heck I'm sure at the power I'm looking at stock GM bolts would be fine, but I like piece of mind with ARP hardware.

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi Mike, you stated "Cost" as # 1 and quality.

The FM Kit you chose :
1. Cast piston with filled Rings = OK ?
2. Gaskets , OP, Freeze plugs = Fine
3. Bearings are standard not race = OK ?

You crankcase "bore"/"deck" costs will be OVER $300.00.

A hone to +.005" and NO Deck will save you $200.00 or more in costs.

The specified FM kit has an "offset" pin piston, reverse them (rear facing notch) if your choice is such.

Lance

biketopia

iTrader: (5)

I'm sure they are, when you go on their site and look at the GMPP vortec heads a link in the descriptions takes you to the alternative of the Jegs house brand. Whether they are relabeled GMPP or dart etc I'm not sure but maybe their tech line would answer that. I emailed them a few questions when I was considering them and got a response in about an hour. And totally hear ya on the piece of mind, the deals are out there if you've got the time.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

I got nothing but time on this project. I'm gonna do it like I did my LS combo, tons of research, questions and examination of parts combos and quality before pulling triggers. It'll be built right and to last, not just popular parts slapped together expecting sucess.

People said I was nuts with that combo on 87 pump gas and it's still running strong with a new owner and 80k miles on the combo which I put together with 100k on the motor.

Strictly Attitude

I agree with you I do hours on hours of figuring when I buy parts or go with a certain vendor on a certain part. Nothing beats a well matched combo.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Has anyone ran this head: Chevrolet Performance Vortec Cylinder Heads 12558060

It's right at the same price as the Summit (dart) heads fully assembled but with a 170 runner and 64 chamber instead of the 175/67 of the Summit. Scroggins sells them and are a sponsor here so would be nice to see them comment on this GM vortec head. I can't find on any site weather or not they have upgraded screw in studs or factory press in. But it seems most who bought them reported 062 castings are used to produce them.

biketopia

iTrader: (5)

Those and the Jegs house brand have the same 170 runner and 64cc chamber. Looking at the GMPP ones they look to have press in studs. Found them on the GMPP site, it states they can be drilled and pinned, or drilled out and tapped, so I'd say they are press in. I haven't ran either since I found a set of 062 but am following along to see what else we can all learn and what you go with. http://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/12558060.html

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

I think after more reading and talking with guys on gmt400, I'll most likely go with these GM heads fully assembled. They will work just fine with my cam selection. And I should be able to run some 1.6 rockers too for a little extra power without getting crazy. I might debur and clean up the casting some but that's it. At least this way I know I'm getting g a "true" GM vortec chamber too.

biketopia

iTrader: (5)

You might need to enlarge your push rod hole to go with 1.6's I did, just ran a 1/2" bit through the hole & use self aligning rockers.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

I think I'm gonna stick with the 1.5's since it's my wife's truck, lol. I have to remind myself all the time when picking parts that she wants close to stock driveability. So I think with the minimal port work planned, gm replacement heads, 395 cam and full exhaust is about all she will let me get away with. Now my 97' Z71 will be another story, lol. If my stock heads check out good, I might just have the exhaust side worked, toss on LS6 springs and have the press in studs replaced with threaded for piece of mind. If I can get that done cheaper than buying those replacement heads anyway.