RandomTask

Going in a Y-body. Last motor just vacated some rods. Strictly a track car so goal is to be indestructible.

Not looking for a bunch of HP, 330HP would be plenty, just want to make torque in more places.

Using another 4 bolt motor out of a vette that ate a head gasket and swallowed a bunch of water. Figuring the following:
1.) Clean head rebuild, shave a little. (Roller tip rockers, stock lifters, what for springs?)
2.) ARP everything.
3.) Would like some lightweight forged rods (suggestions?)
4.) Suggestions on bearings. . .
5.) Deck block, go 0.030 over. (What for pistons?)
6.) VERY mild cam.
7.) Stock crank.
8.) Roller timing chain.

Any other suggestions? Not shooting for the moon, just want a solid motor that can take some long beatings that I don't have to worry about.

CNC BLOCKS N/E

Scat, Molar have some light weight rods I would go with either 6.0 or 6.125 rods which would make for a lighter piston.

I would look at the Mahle pistons there pistons come with a 1MM 1MM 2MM ring pack I use a lot of there pistons.

I use this family of cams HYD roller only ADV DUR 284/289 - 218/ 222 @.050 on 110 lobe .570 lift with a 1.5 rocker that is offered in different duration's as well,

If your using ARP you need a line hone which on OLD OEM block its the way to go. Zero deck and plate hone for the best ring seal.

I use all Cloyes Hex-A-Just timing sets and it depends if your going to use a step nose cam or not.

If your going to build this why not step up to a 3.750 stroke crank Scat has one for 6.0 rods that will internally balance one piece seal. There about 250.00 you would need to balance it.

RandomTask

Many thanks!

CNC BLOCKS N/E

You might look at the GM hot cams 4 different ones to choose from. I have used quite a few of them with great result and there not a lot of money.

RandomTask

K, I had a "hot cam" for the current motor but never installed it.

Like I said, the goal isn't a HP monster but complete reliability. Car does chump races so it needs to take 24 hour long floggings.

The stock LT1 (out of a '96 Camaro) took about 4 races before she popped (no warning either ,good oil pressure, good temp, just boom).

Goal is some nicer lightweight components for the rotating assembly w/o going overboard. Don't need a super high rev monster (6k is plenty), just want to make more power in more places.






Question: Car is running OBD 1 w/ a chip. How much will it be able to compensate for?

89BANDIT

Google "Ed Wright" for you're OBD1 tuning needs. He's the man, Prob the only Man left that does OBD1. And actually masters in LT1's.