bowtiescottsdale

I am in the process of getting together ideas for a sbc build that is going into a 83' C-10. Im looking to hit the 475-500hp mark on motor using the dart Special High Performance block. I want to use a forged rotating assembly incase the use of nitrous vites me later on.

Currently the truck is running with 3.73 gears and a Zexel locking diff. and i will be using a built 700R4 tranny.

I would like to hear what combos you would suggest to meat the goal. From the Carb down!

ws6t3rror

iTrader: (3)

Well, I would put a 3.875" stroke crank in it from compstar along with thier rods. Run a set of wiseco pistons with it with a standard 400 bore. That will give you 415 cubes. I would shoot for about a 10:1 compression ratio just to keep things simple. I would run either afr 195 eliminators in the comp version, or run the 210cc street version if you dont have the budget for the others. I would use a lunati voodoo hydro roller to take advantage of the oem roller setup the block offers, i'd run the 231/239 duration one with 1.6 rockers on the intake and 1.5 on the exhaust. I prefer scorpion rockers, but you will need something offest if you go with the 210cc eliminators and in that case harland sharp probably has it covered. I would run a super vic on top of it with a aed 850cfm carb, probably a double pumper. A vac secondary will be easier for you if you arent the greatest at carbs.

You will have no problem at all hitting 500fwhp with that, probably be over that by 50hp. Should pull 12" of vacuum easily for you at idle if you have power brakes. You may get by with a 750 carb but the 850 will be better up top. A double pumper will feel better in the mid range over a vac secondary.

How good a carbed car runs all rests on how good you can tune one. All the prettiest speed parts in the world wont run worth a crap if you just pull a carb out of the box and sit it on there and dont know what to do next.

Dont be scared to run a pretty good stall in it, thats what will make or break it for you.

bowtiescottsdale

ahh that sounds like a dream combo... and i have a friend that is a self proclaimed expert with carbs and he does great work with them. I want to be able to drive this thing whenever and what ever, what size stall would u go with 3200? to high or to low?

ws6t3rror

iTrader: (3)

I'd look at a 3600 or so if it goes a little higher than that you'll be a little faster. The thing is I think you would want a little more gear than you have to make the converter feel tighter and not so slushy around town.

Keep it conservative so you enjoy driving it. If its a street vehicle make sure you will like driving it. Only you know your own limits when it comes to stalls and what you will put up with. Go with your gut on that. Speed or slushyness. Tq peak should be about 4500rpm or so with peak power in the 5700 range and hanging on until 6400 or so depending on how the valve train likes it.

bowtiescottsdale

see my friend is running a 3800 stall in his nova with a 383 dont know the cam specs, but it is a turbo 350 tranny with stock gears, and that car feels horrible, i dont want such a problem.

MrOverkill

iTrader: (1)

Considering your HP goals you wont need more than a fairly mild 406 or stout 383, you can build a 9.5:1 406 run it on pump swill and do all you want. Use a hyd roller stick in the 236*-244* @.050" .550"-580" range and some small runner high volecity heads like AFR's195's, you'll make WADS of torque and plenty of HP in the process.

Its not HP you want so much with a heavy vehilce as it is GRUNT, torque moves you off the line and HP pulls you on the topend......

Also you shouldnt need more than a 2500-2800 converter with thi s combo...

ws6t3rror

iTrader: (3)

Yeah you need alot of gearing to tighten up the big converters, stall is sorta related to the resistance the car puts on the stall to accelerate and thats where the slippy feeling comes from. Gearing makes it easier for the stall to pull the car so it doesnt slip as much and everything feels better. You do have lockup and od though so it will feel ok on the highway.

Only reason I said go for a 415 is if you're buying forged parts cost then becomes a non issue and the bigger engine will be milder AND more fun to cruise in.

Honestly with this you could near run it with a stock type 2200 stall, it just wont be as fast, and if you plan to do that back off on the compression to 9.5 or so because its gonna lug the motor more.

The thing about big small blocks 400+ is that you can end up with so much torque that you dont know what to do with it. The combo i suggested above will be on the verge of this.

Velocity is a bit of non issue because of the small min cross section area and the port design of the eliminator heads they flow a TON for thier cross section. Which mean VERY high velocity. The way you can calculate velocity is to take the volume of flow in cubic feet per minute and divide by the cross section, that will give you the avg velocity in that area in ft per min which you can then convert to feet per second if you wish.

capn smokey

iTrader: (1)

my car makes 400+whp on motor with whats on my fquick page and the another 150whp on spray.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

Exactly what I was gonna say!

bowtiescottsdale

Guys these ideas are great and im really liking the ideas im hearing, keep em coming!

As Ws6Terror said, i do have OD and lock-up so it should be great on the highway with a 3400-3600 stall, which is my main concern, seeing i dont wanna trailor 100+ miles to the tracks.

Ryan02SS

iTrader: (3)

If it were mine I would use the largest stroke crank I could fit in the Dart block. 4"? Leave it at stock bore so there is room to grow later on if you need to rebuild, build larger etc.. This would mean you would never need to buy another crank if you go another route down the road. I use AFR heads on my SBC's and they the best IMO.. With your setup I would run a set of 210 Comp versions if you can afford them. 210 RR if you can't. The 210 Eliminator is an awesome port for velocity and flow and well suited to your needs. Don't mess with anything smaller for those cubes. Have a custom grind ground to your heads be it solid or hyd roller. With those cubes something in the 244-258 range would be perfect for power and driveability. Extra cubes will eat up duration and make a cam idle better than in a smaller cube motor. Use a Super Vic intake and get your static compression around 11.5-1. With a good carb tune, 91+ octane and aluminum heads you will have no problems with detonation. I like Lunati Voodoo roller rockers for top reliability. Morel solid or hyd roller lifters are also top of the line. I have and will continue to use Eagle cranks, rods with Mahle pistons. All forged and have provided great reliability in my marine useage.

topend

400+ dart little m sbc. 18* or 15* degree heads. cam in the 260 ish range. A nice nitrous fogger system.

1QWIKBIRD

iTrader: (25)

Get carb built for the motor......Pro Systems.

http://www.prosystemsracing.com/index1.html

The best money you'll spend. And not that much more than an off the shelf holley HP. A sheety carb will drive you mad and have you chasing your tail. Do it right.

bowtiescottsdale

I like this idea, but it seems like it would be good for alot more than 500hp... which would would be ok im just saying.

Also I am going to have a carb made and a Converter, no shortcuts when you go all out on a motor!