Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

http://shop.brutespeed.com/Aster-Aut...er-Bracket.htm

Back by popular demand, we are going to have another group purchase for the Aster Bracket. The above link directs you to the Aster Bracket on my website, and there is an option at the bottom of the page for this group purchase. I will be filling in the names below as the orders come in.
Thanks. Bob

1. Joe C - I8UR4RD
2. Ricardo S - TNTramair
3. Shannon Y
4. Tony T
5. H.S.
6. Greg M
7. Don H
8. Joe C
9. WS6 SRT8
10. 2002gt

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

paypal sent. thanks again. i also need new standoffs and bolts. you can add those one before you ship if it does not come with them.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Thanks Joseph, it does come with them. Bob
The bracket assembly includes the following pieces:

New main bracket
Three billet pulleys (1 8 rib tensioner pulley, 1 2.75" idler, and 1 1.75" idler)
New AC Delco tensioner
Stand offs between the motor and bracket
5 Socket head cap screws to mount the head unit to the bracket.
2 Socket cap screws to mount the tensioner to the bracket.
1 Socket cap screw to mount the main idler pulley to the bracket.
3 Metric hex head bolts to mount bracket to standoffs.
2 Threaded rods for mounting the bracket to the alternator bolt holes (Like the standard ATI bracket)
Shim to sit behind the head unit pulley to ensure alignment.

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

no problem. I just got my ls2 pump in today as a matter of fact.....what is the preferred method of pushing that pulley back 11/32nd's?

stevieturbo

Bob, how much would the water pump only be ? ( incl stat housing ) with the pulley adjusted for the Camaro belt position ?

This would be ideal for me.

TNTramair

iTrader: (15)

I'm in...payment sent

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Thanks, but we don't see the water pump by itself. We don't make any money off of it, but since it is required for the bracket we offer it to help out. The GM Corvette 2005 LS2 part number 89018052 water pump is the one to use. The pulley needs to be pressed forward 11/32 of an inch, which is easy to do with a puller. Bob

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Thanks, we appreciate the order. Bob

stevieturbo

ok, thanks Bob

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

New gm parts and gm parts direct have you covered. i I just happened to come across one. you should be looking to spend about $200 on a new one.

stevieturbo

It isn't always that easy when you're not in the US. Those places don't ship internationally.

I'll get something sorted though.

Aster

iTrader: (9)

I get the pumps complete for just under $200 shipped and have been selling them as part of the bracket sale for $200. I don't make anything off it and am actually losing money by the time I've pulled the pulley, and have been considering raising the price a little on them.

You can use a large 3 jaw pulley puller to do the job yourself, but you just have to take it slow and reposition the jaws from time to time to try and keep from warping the pulley much. Just make sure you don't pull the pulley too far forward.

There is another option that will save you from having to pull the pulley though it will be more expensive. I have been told someone makes spacers that will being the pump in line with the main drive, you just need to also get a corvette tensioner to mount to the pump. I have not yet looked into how much this costs though. I think they said it was Wegner that makes them.

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

oh ok. it needs to be PULLED out (not pressed in) 11/32nd's. I totally read that wrong then. Now i just need to wait till next month and get my fuel system and 3.4 pulley and find out my belt length. Got my br7ef's at .026 last nite and they are in the heads now. I laughed at how easy it was with the motor out.

stevieturbo

Are you applying heat when pulling the pulley, or just doing it cold ?

Aster

iTrader: (9)

I always pull them cold. I don't like the idea of heating them because I don't want to run the risk of the pulley softening and warping more.

I use a 2 foot long pipe between the jaws to hold it steady and provide leverage and a pipe over the socket when pulling. The hardest part is getting it to initially break loose, so I do 7 or 8 90 degree turns then loosen it up, reposition the jaws, and do it again. Repeat until it begins pulling forward. I use a micrometer to measure the depth from the pulley to the top of the shaft and try and stop close to .25" deep (for a total of about 3/8" pulled since it starts with the shaft a bit forward of the pulley).

Aster

iTrader: (9)

Belt length for a 3.4" head unit pulley with the regular Procharger crank pulley is 50.5"

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

No, not applying the heat. My torch would liquefy the pulley most likely. No, I am just putting my 3 jaw on, and finding something long enough to give me leverage, and apparently I need to find a micrometer somewhere and measure it. I certainly do not want to flex it so I will take my time. I am a pretty slow paced guy anyways when it come to these things. Took me a month to put the procharger on by itself.

stevieturbo

New pump arrived today via SDPC !! Superb service from them, I only ordered it on Friday morning.
It did take a bit of effort to get it moving, but wasnt that bad really. I did put some tension on it then stop and tap the top of the puller with a hammer for a bit though.



Makes a huge difference at the front though. My crank pulley is a F-Body offset.



it looks more than it is, it's only about 4.5-5mm though ( 195thou )

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

That was FAST! I sent you a tracking number last night for the race valve, thanks! Bob

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

i realise using only two of the standoffs is perfectly fine for running the bracket, but seems like someone mentioned on my lq9 block id have to drill a place for the alternator? any pics or links bob/chris?