Need help with my new car's system!
05-26-2009, 10:49 AM
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Need help with my new car's system! I just bought an 09 Cobalt SS. Nice car, has the integrated Bluetooth/On-Star/Ipod controls.
I want to add a much more powerful system, but I REALLY want to keep the factory headunit to maintain all the integrated controls and features.
It has a "Pioneer 7 speaker" factory system. From what I've gathered on the Cobalt forums, the factory HU sends a signal to a small 270 watt amp under the dash that powers a front component set, rear 6 x 9's, and a sealed 10" sub in the trunk.
Only problem with this is that it sounds like crap at anything more than half volume, and even at max volume, isn't loud enough to make me happy.
What I'd like to do is obtain a good 6 channel, low level signal from the factory system, to power:
JL HD900/5 Amp (100w x 4 + 500w x 1, supposed to be available in June)
JL VR 6.5" Components up front
JL VR 6.5" 2-ways in place of the rear 6 x 9's
JL 10w7 or 10w6v2 in the trunk in a sealed box (not reusing the factory box, made out of cheap plastic, I'll build my own)
I'll have no problem running power, ground, and speaker wires. I'm just stumped on getting the signal. It looks as though it may be possible to steal the signal from the factory amp to run my HD900/5, but I can't be sure about the low level voltage. Does anyone know how to test that?
There is also the option of using a sound processor, but that's looking expensive, and I'll avoid it unless it's going to have a big impact on sound. Rockford offer a SP (RF 360) that looks like it'll do everything I'd want, and more, but it cost's about $600. JL offers a SP that only has a 4 channel output and still costs $300. MTX has one, too, but I'm not one to trust MTX for high quality sound. I'm definitely open to advice about these, as I've never used a sound processor.
I tried to figure all of this out on the Cobalt forums, but it seems like all these guys are either changing the head unit, or running a line level converter from the factory amp's sub output. That just doesn't seem like a good idea to me, too much chance for distortion.
Any of you guys that have dealt with the late model GM systems, I'd really appreciate your help here. Thanks in advance!
I want to add a much more powerful system, but I REALLY want to keep the factory headunit to maintain all the integrated controls and features.
It has a "Pioneer 7 speaker" factory system. From what I've gathered on the Cobalt forums, the factory HU sends a signal to a small 270 watt amp under the dash that powers a front component set, rear 6 x 9's, and a sealed 10" sub in the trunk.
Only problem with this is that it sounds like crap at anything more than half volume, and even at max volume, isn't loud enough to make me happy.
What I'd like to do is obtain a good 6 channel, low level signal from the factory system, to power:
JL HD900/5 Amp (100w x 4 + 500w x 1, supposed to be available in June)
JL VR 6.5" Components up front
JL VR 6.5" 2-ways in place of the rear 6 x 9's
JL 10w7 or 10w6v2 in the trunk in a sealed box (not reusing the factory box, made out of cheap plastic, I'll build my own)
I'll have no problem running power, ground, and speaker wires. I'm just stumped on getting the signal. It looks as though it may be possible to steal the signal from the factory amp to run my HD900/5, but I can't be sure about the low level voltage. Does anyone know how to test that?
There is also the option of using a sound processor, but that's looking expensive, and I'll avoid it unless it's going to have a big impact on sound. Rockford offer a SP (RF 360) that looks like it'll do everything I'd want, and more, but it cost's about $600. JL offers a SP that only has a 4 channel output and still costs $300. MTX has one, too, but I'm not one to trust MTX for high quality sound. I'm definitely open to advice about these, as I've never used a sound processor.
I tried to figure all of this out on the Cobalt forums, but it seems like all these guys are either changing the head unit, or running a line level converter from the factory amp's sub output. That just doesn't seem like a good idea to me, too much chance for distortion.
Any of you guys that have dealt with the late model GM systems, I'd really appreciate your help here. Thanks in advance!
05-26-2009, 11:37 AM
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from how I see it thats like going from composite (yellow) to hdmi video. Changing it to hdmi won't help, because it already had to be formatted to composite and lost quality.
Going high to low to amp wont be any better than buying an amp with a high level input. To me, that just leaves room for distortion from the converter having to convert it back, especially if the converter is cheap.
Just find a 5 channel amp with high input, even if it isnt JL which you seem to really prefer.
Going high to low to amp wont be any better than buying an amp with a high level input. To me, that just leaves room for distortion from the converter having to convert it back, especially if the converter is cheap.
Just find a 5 channel amp with high input, even if it isnt JL which you seem to really prefer.
05-26-2009, 12:03 PM
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from how I see it thats like going from composite (yellow) to hdmi video. Changing it to hdmi won't help, because it already had to be formatted to composite and lost quality.
Going high to low to amp wont be any better than buying an amp with a high level input. To me, that just leaves room for distortion from the converter having to convert it back, especially if the converter is cheap.
Just find a 5 channel amp with high input, even if it isnt JL which you seem to really prefer.
Going high to low to amp wont be any better than buying an amp with a high level input. To me, that just leaves room for distortion from the converter having to convert it back, especially if the converter is cheap.
Just find a 5 channel amp with high input, even if it isnt JL which you seem to really prefer.
I'm trying to figure how to use that signal for a factory amp, specifically because I don't like the idea of going high to low back to high. And I definitely don't want to run a cheap converter.
And yes, I do love my JL! Hasn't disappointed me yet!
On the other hand, Kicker, RF, Memphis, Infinity, Clarion, and American Bass all have disappointed me in one way or another.
05-27-2009, 11:31 AM
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I'm also having trouble deciding which subs to use. I'll definitely use a sealed box, but maybe you guys can offer a bit of input on my sub setup.
The power will be 500w RMS (via a JL amp, so probably more like 600, realistically). I'm choosing from the following (stuck on JL, so live with it
) :
2 8w7s
2 10w6v2s
1 10w7
1 12w6v2
I listen to a lot of metal (Walls of Jericho, Slayer, Mastodon, As I Lay Dying, etc), a little rock (Pearl Jam, Soundgarden, Papa Roach, etc.) and a lot of Reggae-Rock/Dance-Hall/SoCal type stuff (311, Sublime, Pepper, Slightly Stoopid, The Expendables, RHCP).
The 500/1 & single, sealed 8w7 combo is great in my Camaro, except I would like a little more bass for the death metal type music that is less bass intensive. That's why I'm looking at either 2 subs, or a bigger sub with more excursion.
Thanks
The power will be 500w RMS (via a JL amp, so probably more like 600, realistically). I'm choosing from the following (stuck on JL, so live with it
) :2 8w7s
2 10w6v2s
1 10w7
1 12w6v2
I listen to a lot of metal (Walls of Jericho, Slayer, Mastodon, As I Lay Dying, etc), a little rock (Pearl Jam, Soundgarden, Papa Roach, etc.) and a lot of Reggae-Rock/Dance-Hall/SoCal type stuff (311, Sublime, Pepper, Slightly Stoopid, The Expendables, RHCP).
The 500/1 & single, sealed 8w7 combo is great in my Camaro, except I would like a little more bass for the death metal type music that is less bass intensive. That's why I'm looking at either 2 subs, or a bigger sub with more excursion.
Thanks
