Car not turning on??
#1
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Car not turning on??
my cousin was pumping gas and when he was going to leave the car would not start or even crank, checked all the ovious stuff like battery alarm but the security like keeps blinking. What could this be.
#4
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Does he have factory keyless? If so open the driver door and just like a DEI alarm lock and then unlock the doors. Sometimes if the lock button is advertently hit the factory security arms and wont start the car or even cank it. Its weird because when this happens the horn wont honk. Happended to me a few times after I put in my Viper where my exwife was playing around in the glovebox and accidently hit the factory transmitter arming the car.
#5
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Does he have factory keyless? If so open the driver door and just like a DEI alarm lock and then unlock the doors. Sometimes if the lock button is advertently hit the factory security arms and wont start the car or even cank it. Its weird because when this happens the horn wont honk. Happended to me a few times after I put in my Viper where my exwife was playing around in the glovebox and accidently hit the factory transmitter arming the car.
It's possible that the wiring between the ignition cylinder and the BCM has been cut or damaged or that the connections for the contacts inside the ignition cylinder have broken off. That has been known to happen but it's always best to go with the simplest solution first so the ignition key is the first step.
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#8
TECH Resident
I've just had the exact same problem too. Just about to look into it.
Have tried WD40, and tried my spare key.
Security light still flashing.
Never had trouble starting it before. Original PCM is in the car along with original VATS.
I'm going to have a look at the contact end of the barrel to see what i can find.
I will keep ya all posted, my findings may help the other person who has the same problem.
Have tried WD40, and tried my spare key.
Security light still flashing.
Never had trouble starting it before. Original PCM is in the car along with original VATS.
I'm going to have a look at the contact end of the barrel to see what i can find.
I will keep ya all posted, my findings may help the other person who has the same problem.
#9
TECH Resident
I have made some progress with the problem.
The problem was not starting when I turned the key, all light looked normal apart from the 'Security' light flashing. The car would not turn over, however I could hear the fuel pump.
Looked at wires to the BCM behind the radio, they looked intact, was going to look at the wires on the back of the ignition barrell. Looked like you had to that the steering wheel off for that, so gave that a miss for now. Then I wanted to find the two wires under the dash. These two wires carry the resistance of the key to the security system.
Attached is a photo of the pair of wires. I used a ohm meter to measure the resistance of the wires going to the barrel with an without the ignition key inserted, all I could measure was an open circuit. This would indicate to me that the contcts in the barrel were no longer working, or the wires on the back of the barrel have come detached.
I tried both ignition keys. Measured the reistance of the key, mine were 1868ohms. So as I couldn't get the exact resistor I put two together and tried that in the plug. I was thinkling this was working, as my security light was no longer flashing, but it wouldn't go off. I re measured the resistors I fited and I was 800ohms instead of 1800ohms. So I tried again stringing resistors 1500 + 160 + 160 + 68, this gave me a good number. So I attached this to the two terminals. and hey presto the car fited up.
So basically what I've done is got the system to ignore the resistor from the ignition key buy fitting a fixed resistor in the wiring loom.
The problem was not starting when I turned the key, all light looked normal apart from the 'Security' light flashing. The car would not turn over, however I could hear the fuel pump.
Looked at wires to the BCM behind the radio, they looked intact, was going to look at the wires on the back of the ignition barrell. Looked like you had to that the steering wheel off for that, so gave that a miss for now. Then I wanted to find the two wires under the dash. These two wires carry the resistance of the key to the security system.
Attached is a photo of the pair of wires. I used a ohm meter to measure the resistance of the wires going to the barrel with an without the ignition key inserted, all I could measure was an open circuit. This would indicate to me that the contcts in the barrel were no longer working, or the wires on the back of the barrel have come detached.
I tried both ignition keys. Measured the reistance of the key, mine were 1868ohms. So as I couldn't get the exact resistor I put two together and tried that in the plug. I was thinkling this was working, as my security light was no longer flashing, but it wouldn't go off. I re measured the resistors I fited and I was 800ohms instead of 1800ohms. So I tried again stringing resistors 1500 + 160 + 160 + 68, this gave me a good number. So I attached this to the two terminals. and hey presto the car fited up.
So basically what I've done is got the system to ignore the resistor from the ignition key buy fitting a fixed resistor in the wiring loom.
Last edited by RedWS6 00; 08-15-2009 at 05:37 PM.
#10
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Sounds like the VATS, but here is the test procedure for no starting problems:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...not-start.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...not-start.html
#11
TECH Resident
Sounds like the VATS, but here is the test procedure for no starting problems:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...not-start.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...not-start.html