Window motor
#1
Staging Lane
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Window motor
Ok I think the drivers side motor is going out. The window is slowing down and when rolling up it doesnt roll up all the way. It's like its tilted and there is a gap in front where it meets the rubber. My question is this. Is there anything I can do to make it faster when replacing it? I hate how slow they are, and why is it tilting? I want to get as much info before I tear into it.
#2
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iTrader: (5)
Tilting = Bad.
Something mechanical is probably going down inside the door, which is straining the motor.
You'll need to take the door panel off, peel back the plastic vapor barrier, and see whats going on. Some specific conditions to check for:
- Make sure the rear vertical roller is engaged properly in the track and is still attached to the window. (These can break off.)
- Make sure your four regulator rivets are attached well to the fiberglass door panel and aren't ripping through their holes.
- Make sure none of the bolts attaching channels and stops to the door are loose.
Something mechanical is probably going down inside the door, which is straining the motor.
You'll need to take the door panel off, peel back the plastic vapor barrier, and see whats going on. Some specific conditions to check for:
- Make sure the rear vertical roller is engaged properly in the track and is still attached to the window. (These can break off.)
- Make sure your four regulator rivets are attached well to the fiberglass door panel and aren't ripping through their holes.
- Make sure none of the bolts attaching channels and stops to the door are loose.
#5
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iTrader: (5)
If you have the same problem with the gaps and everything, then you may have the problem with tearing inside the door or mis-adjsuted stops.
BTW - This is the best thread I've seen on the tearing issue: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-included.html It will give you a good example of what to look for and how to repair.
BTW - This is the best thread I've seen on the tearing issue: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-included.html It will give you a good example of what to look for and how to repair.
#6
Staging Lane
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Ok so I took it in to the dealer 2 days ago. they said the motor and something else was bad. It was going to cost me 253.00 with a discount my friend has.. I tore it apart yesterday and found you were right. The motor had ben replaced and came loose. The bolts were tearing into the door. It only had two left but made tear marks pretty bad. I replaced the bolts and tightened them with red lock tight and it works great now. Saved me 253.00!
#7
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Ok so I took it in to the dealer 2 days ago. they said the motor and something else was bad. It was going to cost me 253.00 with a discount my friend has.. I tore it apart yesterday and found you were right. The motor had ben replaced and came loose. The bolts were tearing into the door. It only had two left but made tear marks pretty bad. I replaced the bolts and tightened them with red lock tight and it works great now. Saved me 253.00! Thanks for the info..
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#8
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If you have the same problem with the gaps and everything, then you may have the problem with tearing inside the door or mis-adjsuted stops.
BTW - This is the best thread I've seen on the tearing issue: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-included.html It will give you a good example of what to look for and how to repair.
BTW - This is the best thread I've seen on the tearing issue: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-included.html It will give you a good example of what to look for and how to repair.
Window motor going bad????
#9
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Yep that would be the motor going out. It will get slower and slower untill it will stop working a couple times during roll up. Then completly stop.
#11
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
Ok so I took it in to the dealer 2 days ago. they said the motor and something else was bad. It was going to cost me 253.00 with a discount my friend has.. I tore it apart yesterday and found you were right. The motor had ben replaced and came loose. The bolts were tearing into the door. It only had two left but made tear marks pretty bad. I replaced the bolts and tightened them with red lock tight and it works great now. Saved me 253.00!
Instead of a plate, (depending on how bad your damage is) you may be able to epoxy some fender washers to the fiberglass over your two bad holes. This will firm up/reinforce those two weak bolts and take stress off of your two good holes.