ANTICOP RAM AIR

iTrader: (7)

this is some good ****.. ive been doing this for a while now. on all of the fbodys ive owned and my brothers.... i just thought it was common knowledge... good job man.... OH.. and it does hurt like hell to roll up your finger in it... ask me how my wife knows..

graemer66

Hi all, have the same issue with my 1999 Z28, was thinking of replacing the motor but now this gives me another option Thanks.
Graeme In Australia 5.7L right hand drive

graemer66

If I was to buy new Power window units which would be better ????



Ok if this is correct then which power window unit should be installed ? I am looking at those from Rockauto but which one is better/last longer ?
Would the A-1 CARDONE Part # 42150 be better or ACDELCO Part # 11M24
Would the CARDONE SELECT Part # 82145 be better as they are more expensive you would think they could be a better choice ?
Or go with the cheaper ones DORMAN Part # 742101
Not sure what to buy !!! very limited over here in Australia as some Company's in the US do not want to ship over here.
Graeme

nightmarechevy

iTrader: (5)

Best thread EVER. I was about to get a new motor since I could only roll up my window in 2 second intervals. I saw this thread yesterday and did the mod today and it works like a brand new motor! I am going to try the power "fix" as soon as I get time. OP is a lifesaver!

ZexGX

iTrader: (28)

Buy the CARDONE SELECT. The A-1 is a remanufactured unit.

Ls2SilverBullet

Alright guys, so this weekend I decided to do this "mod" to my passenger window motor that has been doing this for a couple months.

After taking my door panel off I was slightly relieved to see that my window motor has already been replaced sometime in its life with an AC Delco one, so I was glad to not have to drill any holes. Once I got the motor out I inspected it and saw that the top plasic cap was slightly different than the one in the writeup. After taking it off it was VERY obvious the motors, or at least the top portions were different.

This is what mine looked like:



Once I removed the top plastic cap piece and looked at the reverse side this is what i saw:



No springs or brushes.

There were two connections on each side of the circular piece of plastic in the center (each running to the wire connector you can see bearly sticking out on the right). They are slots that tabs (on window motor) sit into. Using my limited knowledge of wiring and electronics I decided the current flows through one tab, up through the yellow part within the center of the circular shape, and then to the other side.

Based on this I figured the yellow piece in the center beteween the two connectors is the heat resistor.

So, using my sodering iron I heated the soder on the heat resistor connections untill I could pull it out. Once it was out I used the sodering iron to heat and scrape off the old soder. Then I reconnected them using a small piece of 12 gauge wire and soder.

This is what I came up with:



Put the motor back together and tested it. Goooood to go! So I put it back in and bolted her up to test it with the weight of the window and it works like a charm! Its been good for a whole day of use so I think its good to go.

And the funniest thing about the entire process is the American made AC Delco window motor only stops working because of the little heat resistor going bad, but the heat resistor just happens to have ******* MEXICO WRITTEN ON IT.. there is the problem right there lol wtf


slow69z, Thanks for the information! It saved me 70 bucks.

I hope this helps someone else that comes across a motor like this.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i still say the autotrix kit is the better choice

Ls2SilverBullet

Not sure what the autotrix kit is or how exactly it works or plugs up, but it sounds like a good option. How does it work?

But a free fix is good with me, I'm just glad to have my window back

TruBloodTransAm

iTrader: (24)

Instead of sharing power with the driver side window motor, the AutoTrix kit routes power directly off the battery straight to the passenger side window motor.

I installed this kit last summer, one of the best mods ever!!!

slow96z

iTrader: (12)

The Autotrix kit is a good thing to add, but it is in addition to this repair, not instead of. Yes the passenger door needs better voltage to function properly, but even at 12 or 14.4 volts the motor will eventually stop working due to the failing of this resistor strip. I say do the additional relays (autotrix or diy kit), they will definately help with passenger window speed, but if the motor is not working or only moving the window a little at a time this is the fix for you.

slow96z

iTrader: (12)

and thanks all for the good words, I'm glad it is helping some people, even way down in Austrailia!

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

+100000000000

mrrman

marked

Ls2SilverBullet

Yeah, the autotrix kit sounds like a good mod from what I've found, but its not what I needed. I would just do it they DIY way, I have read the write up before and its pretty simple

gorr4

iTrader: (2)

Sweet write up & Nice to know ! I dident see this or any thing about it when i was hunting info before i replased mine...
But hears some hindsite info to help out.

My Dr side win stoped working about 1/2 a year ago & the pas is sooper slow..
I read up on the The Autotrix kit as well but did't feal like spending $35 on 2 $5 bosch relays.
I just hunted the DIY info for the fix... got my relays & a pear of 5-pin relay sockets for a clean install & ezes of replacing the relay if 1 wer to fail but I haven't done the Pas window yet! so il have to get back to you

hears a diagram I fownd that shows how to wire the relays.

( sorry not sure whear I got the diagram from, wasn't planing on posting :/ or I'd give credit )

After spending a 1/2 hr trying to get the rgulator & motor out, using the info i fownd in anuther post
( your suposed to have it 1/2 way down mine was stuck in the closed pos )
finely i just unbolted all the tracks, then i was able to get it out with some finagiling If yours is is stuck & you dont want to drill holes in your door... theas are the bolts to remove to get the tracks out of the way & the pop rivits to drill out.


I think you culd probibly just leave motor on the regulator to bypass the resistor strip, no?

If i was wiling to drill holes in my door it wuld have made things go much faster & I think it's a grate Idea but my SS has under 70K I'm just don't think I'm guna do it So for those of you that feal the same you can spot weld or tape some 1/4" nuts on the back of the regulator & ues 1/4" x 7/20" (.350") buttin head #3 philips instead of pop riviting the Reg back in & if your removing the lift motor from the regulator well it's out, it's spring loded & it needs to be held in place.



this was Some of the stuff that wasent clear to me before hand & thout it may help now I'm going to go try fixing the old motor i replased! Thanx

graemer66

Well I went with the CARDONE SELECT Part # 82145 as it was said the A1 was rebuilt, spent $127 AU Dollars and got 2 from Rockauto (delivered in 4 days to Australia !!!!!!! Bloody fast). After 2 hours job done and all working. Thanks Guy.
I will do the MOD on the old units and keep the as spares. Thanks guys great Thread much thanks from Graeme in Australia.

blackodium

i was changing my motor and the dang thing wont go up. if i try to assist it it goes a little. down works perfect. no matter how long i wait its the same issue. i took it off and reinstalled 3 times total thinking it is binding against anything or crooked. Any help?

gorr4

iTrader: (2)

I Had the Same Prob. I got 2 Dorman OE Solutions 742-150 Window Lift Motors from Amazon for $20.79 Ea. LOL I Thout I had goten a good deal... but neither of them had enuff torque to move the regulator up with out helping, down was fine! The First 1 was skiping teeth (the Motor mownting bolts wer a smaller diameter then shuld be & the Reg bolts are olny catching by 2 maybe 3 treds ) spent 3 hr mesing with em trying to figer out what I was doing wrong! I figerd the regulator must be bad & called auto zone (the only place close enuff to walk to ) $127 IIRC for the Dorman Reg/Lift Motor unit Owtch but it was sunday & it's our DD & I needed it done Now, so off i went! only to hear the guy say "We can have one to you tomaro!" "UGG" But we Do have the Dorman 742-101 LTW Lift Motor in stock for $47.99 if u like? I know the guys ther & say I just tryed 2 difrent Dorman Motors & Im thinking it's the regulator... but if buy the Lift Motor & I have the same prob & it's a "LTW" Can i bring it back & just pay the difence for the $127 one W the reg & pick it up @ the outher store? (I still wuld have needed to find a ride or drive 20 mi to a not so safe towne with no window ) Reluctantly he ses ok but you have to be qwik I'm off in a hr & no one elce hear can auth... thing worked Fine the regulator was ok! the prob was the cheep I got from Amazon! the bolts that came with it wer the right sise too. thear the ones I gave the sise to in the last post.
So unless your regulator is rily bent up, mising a wheal or maybe rusted real bad it's probly fine & you just got a bad Lift Motor like I did. Return it & get a better one if you went with a cheep one! If you can not return it maybe try the bypass mod slow96z desribed in this post
Good Luck George #4

blackodium

Yea thats what i bought! dorman! I just bought one from advance. Brand new not repro. forty six bucks. So i hope that is the fix. thanks for the reply it helped tons!

blackodium

another question. Install was successful the advance auto parts motor was the better and works. now i went to drive the car and closed the door and that dang spring thing fell off. why is it doing that?