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Odd, very concerning question...

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Old 09-21-2010, 01:00 AM
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Default Odd, very concerning question...

So I drove over to my sister's house (everything was fine and driving normally) and then I had to take my friend home. I start my car and my Check Gages light came on, so I'm like wtf? check gages? and I notice my battery gauge is in the red. So I pass it off and take my friend home thinking my alternator will charge my battery. Well halfway home my lights on my cluster get dim and my battery has dropped to a bit over 8 and then my ABS Inop light comes on... I make it back to my sister's and after I turned my engine off I try to start it again and it won't start. I went back out 30 minutes later and it started back up somehow but still had a low battery reading and this time my Service Vehicle light came on (this concerns me). I left my engine running and checked the serpentine belt and it wasn't broken. I don't know what the problem is, and I wouldn't think the battery dying would throw up the SV light. Any ideas? Thanks.
Old 09-21-2010, 02:25 AM
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Step 1) Test the alternator.
Step 2) If battery old, replace it.
Step 3) Check the continuity of all the wiring.
Step 4) Get a new sister. She's obviously bad luck. Keep the friend. At least the car will run for him. I hope he's not dating your sister - that would be really messed up.
Old 09-21-2010, 08:13 AM
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How can I test the alternator? I'm assuming I would need a voltmeter? I'm thinking it is just the battery going out since it's really old, but I wouldn't thinl the battery dying would throw the SV light. That's what I'm concerned most about, I want to know what's causing that light to show. I doubt it's the wiring since I haven't done any aftermarket wiring.
Old 09-21-2010, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Mustang Killer
How can I test the alternator? I'm assuming I would need a voltmeter? I'm thinking it is just the battery going out since it's really old, but I wouldn't thinl the battery dying would throw the SV light. That's what I'm concerned most about, I want to know what's causing that light to show. I doubt it's the wiring since I haven't done any aftermarket wiring.
Well local parts houses can test the battery and alternator for free. Other than that im not sure...
Old 09-21-2010, 08:33 AM
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Does the Ol' unhook the battery with the car running test the alternator on these cars? Lol probably not, I'm just used to working on the old carburated junk. But I did work at Oreilly Autoparts for several years, and they will bring out about an $800 tester that does a pretty decent test of both your alternator and battery for free out in the parking lot.
Old 09-21-2010, 02:36 PM
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Update: while trying to drive to my house this morning my car started up fine (still with low battery), but about halfway home all the gauges on my cluster fell to zero (MPH, tach, everything...) and my idle got really choppy including loss of power. Well my car eventually completely dies and I pull to the side of the road right in front of an Advance Auto Parts (oh the irony). I ask them to check my alternator and they tell me that it has to be running to check the alternator, but he checks my battery and explains to me that the alternator ran it dry trying to start itself up. So it's beginning to seem like my alternator is to blame.
Old 09-21-2010, 03:10 PM
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They also have a bench tester to test both the battery and alternator. But obviously you would have to remove the alternator... But this may be your only option it sounds like.
Old 09-21-2010, 04:20 PM
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Well if it's certainly my alternator that's no big deal, I'll just take my old one out and replace it. I just want to make sure that's what the problem is. I don't really want to take the battery out if I don't have to.
Old 09-21-2010, 04:34 PM
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It's not certainly the alternator, but it's likely and free to test.
Old 09-21-2010, 07:35 PM
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So you recommend me to remove the altenator and battery and take both of them up there? Would it be easier to just jump the battery and try to take it up there and have them test it while it's running?
Old 09-21-2010, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Mustang Killer
Well if it's certainly my alternator that's no big deal, I'll just take my old one out and replace it. I just want to make sure that's what the problem is. I don't really want to take the battery out if I don't have to.

Um, the battery is a helluva lot easier to take out and test than the alternator. If the date code is 5 years or older, get an Interstate.
Old 09-21-2010, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 428 78T/A
Um, the battery is a helluva lot easier to take out and test than the alternator. If the date code is 5 years or older, get an Interstate.
I realize that, that's not what I meant. I'm already going to have to take out the alternator to replace it, I just wanted to save myself the potentially uneccessary job of removing the battery if I didn't need to. Simply trying to be efficient, I realize the battery is leaps and bounds easier to remove than the alternator. Regardless, is there a write up anywhere for doing an alternator swap? Me and one of my buddies are going to try to do the swap tomorrow night.
Old 09-22-2010, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Mustang Killer
So you recommend me to remove the altenator and battery and take both of them up there? Would it be easier to just jump the battery and try to take it up there and have them test it while it's running?
Sounds like a good thing to do.

If you search, there are lots of threads on how to remove the alternator. Its pretty straight forward but requires a certain technique to get it past the sway bar and out of the car. (You do it from underneath.)
Old 09-23-2010, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
Sounds like a good thing to do.

If you search, there are lots of threads on how to remove the alternator. Its pretty straight forward but requires a certain technique to get it past the sway bar and out of the car. (You do it from underneath.)
Well me and my buddy swapped the alternator yesterday and the car is idling just fine now (around 14-15 volts). I don't know what "technique" you were referring to. We just pushed the fan housing out of the way to give us the necessary clearance to get over the sway bar.
Old 09-23-2010, 03:09 PM
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People are just tryin to help ya out man..
Old 09-23-2010, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Mustang Killer
Well me and my buddy swapped the alternator yesterday and the car is idling just fine now (around 14-15 volts). I don't know what "technique" you were referring to. We just pushed the fan housing out of the way to give us the necessary clearance to get over the sway bar.
Yea, If you keep the housing in place, you have to thread the thing through the fan blades, rotate it, twist it, etc. to get it out.

Glad to hear your full voltage again!
Old 09-24-2010, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by gfeller2006
People are just tryin to help ya out man..
And you guys did, I appreciate it wholeheartedly. Sorry if anywhere in there I sounded like an ***, I was stressed and concerned (as any Camaro owner should be when their baby won't start.)

Thanks wssix99! Me too, it had me worried for a bit.




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