Big 3 Cable Lengths
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 107
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Big 3 Cable Lengths What size did you guys end up using on your "Big 3" upgrade, and what lengths of cable did you use (+/- 6 inches)
Is it also possible to get the Autozone/Advance Auto 4ga battery cables, even as a temp upgrade? I'm in the middle of getting brake parts and am short on funds.
Is it also possible to get the Autozone/Advance Auto 4ga battery cables, even as a temp upgrade? I'm in the middle of getting brake parts and am short on funds.
Yes, I know O'reilly's has 4gauge ****, thats what I'm using... works great and I don't have a need for 0 guage.
Anyway...
Chassis to Engine = 21 inches or so
Chassis to Battery Negative = 12 inches or so
Alternator to Battery Positive = 55 inches or so
If you make it yourself, have too much, you can always cut, if you cut too short then you have to make yourself a new run.
Good luck, does wonders once you get it done, and you'll like the alternator nut, our engine bay is sooo spacious
Anyway...
Chassis to Engine = 21 inches or so
Chassis to Battery Negative = 12 inches or so
Alternator to Battery Positive = 55 inches or so
If you make it yourself, have too much, you can always cut, if you cut too short then you have to make yourself a new run.
Good luck, does wonders once you get it done, and you'll like the alternator nut, our engine bay is sooo spacious
on a side note, it never hurts to clean the contact points... sand down to bare metal, and apply dielectric grease(you can get at electrician and automotive stores) to keep moisture and corrosion at bay.
and on the Chassis to Battery negative, I left the stock in place, and sanded down a new location for that cable to ground to.
on the engine block, I left the stock strap (10 gauge maybe?) and added a run of 4 gauge to match the rest of the cables, bolted down in same location. This is where cleaning contact points is important, that engine ground point isn't the cleaned place around, and the chassis spot can usually use some sanding.
on the alternator charge cable, make sure to swap the rubber boot over to prevent arcing on the strap, among other things.
and on the Chassis to Battery negative, I left the stock in place, and sanded down a new location for that cable to ground to.
on the engine block, I left the stock strap (10 gauge maybe?) and added a run of 4 gauge to match the rest of the cables, bolted down in same location. This is where cleaning contact points is important, that engine ground point isn't the cleaned place around, and the chassis spot can usually use some sanding.
on the alternator charge cable, make sure to swap the rubber boot over to prevent arcing on the strap, among other things.
And 2 gauge, even better!
Notice a big difference over stock? should be around 1.5+ volts more
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Honestly... I noticed less erratic changes to my volt gauge and my dimming headlights. I think my alternator is on it's way out, but it did smooth out the dimming in my lights a little bit. I'll be ready for the AD244 alternator!
