CDT component speakers for doors
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
CDT component speakers for doors
Im about to order the premium speaker package from Kee Audio, and have read a few posts about installing the door speaker that come with them. I know the speakers are component but Im not sure if the tweeters and woofers should be installed seperately like the stock speakers are, or installed with the tweeters mounted on the woofers. I've taken the door panels off and know there isn't much room between the woofer and the speaker cover. Thanks in advance. Travis.
#2
Banned
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Hi Travis. They should be installed as they are stock basically. If you have a Trans Am or Firebird you can install them separately like they are stock. If you have a Camaro you can convert them to a coaxial like the stock Camaro's are but you still have your separate wiring provision like the stock system has. Their is plenty of room for them in there. Here's a link to some of them in the car installed:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...tall-pics.html
That is for the Camaro of course. Here are some with Firebird/ Trans Am installs as well:
http://www.keeaudio.com/gallery.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...tall-pics.html
That is for the Camaro of course. Here are some with Firebird/ Trans Am installs as well:
http://www.keeaudio.com/gallery.html
#3
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Ok yeah the speakers are going in a Trans Am so I'll put them in stock location, also in that link you gave me they talked about some people installing the crossover and some not, what do you recommend?
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The signals are crossed over at the amp, so if you will still be using the stock Monsoon amp, don't use the crossovers. Just wire the tweeters and woofers just like factory speakers.
#6
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You are correct, there is a low pass signal reducer there. Basically like a bass blocker.
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#8
Ungrounded Moderator
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In a Firebird, the front and rear tweeters are powered by the head unit with all other speakers powered by the amp. There are high-pass filters inline in the tweeter wiring (high pass because they let high frequency signal pass through while blocking lower frequencies). In a Camaro, all speakers are powered by the amp and all frequency filtering is done in the amp.
You can't properly install a crossover in the factory wiring anyway so you should just leave the factory filters. Crossovers are designed to take a single full-range input signal and split it by frequency to the component elements (mid and tweeter). The factory system has separate channels for each of the speaker elements so there is no single full-range input to split.
You can't properly install a crossover in the factory wiring anyway so you should just leave the factory filters. Crossovers are designed to take a single full-range input signal and split it by frequency to the component elements (mid and tweeter). The factory system has separate channels for each of the speaker elements so there is no single full-range input to split.
#9
With respect to a Firebird:
If I replace the rear 4" hatch speakers with a 2 way co-axial as kee recommends, do I just hook up the leads going to the old 4", driven from the amp? What do people do with the old factory component tweeter, just leave it driven from the HU if it isn't blown?
I read through the FAQ but nobody talks much about the hatch speakers. Everyone just brushes them off as completely unimportant. Regardless, I think it'd be nice to get a 4" component set back there with a tweeter identical to the door set. Not many companies seem to make this, though. So, is the hatch speaker filtered (high-pass) in the exact same manner as the door channels? If so, would an aftermarket two-way co-axial tweeter do anything if only wired to the amp (not the HU)?
The hatch speaker physical footprint looks to be a 4"x6" plate with both components in it. I haven't tried yet but I guess the 4" cone will come out separately? Will a 4"x6" plate work, too? I see a couple companies make these as component sets.
Anyone have a suggestion for a matching door/hatch component set? I already bought Kee's bazooka woofers. I just got a new Pioneer DEH-6200BT HU. I bought this car last March, looks new for 10 years old and only 63k. Only aftermarket stuff on it was a K&N and a Magnaflow catback. I'm doing the LMC headlight and the audio system thanks to you guys.
If I replace the rear 4" hatch speakers with a 2 way co-axial as kee recommends, do I just hook up the leads going to the old 4", driven from the amp? What do people do with the old factory component tweeter, just leave it driven from the HU if it isn't blown?
I read through the FAQ but nobody talks much about the hatch speakers. Everyone just brushes them off as completely unimportant. Regardless, I think it'd be nice to get a 4" component set back there with a tweeter identical to the door set. Not many companies seem to make this, though. So, is the hatch speaker filtered (high-pass) in the exact same manner as the door channels? If so, would an aftermarket two-way co-axial tweeter do anything if only wired to the amp (not the HU)?
The hatch speaker physical footprint looks to be a 4"x6" plate with both components in it. I haven't tried yet but I guess the 4" cone will come out separately? Will a 4"x6" plate work, too? I see a couple companies make these as component sets.
Anyone have a suggestion for a matching door/hatch component set? I already bought Kee's bazooka woofers. I just got a new Pioneer DEH-6200BT HU. I bought this car last March, looks new for 10 years old and only 63k. Only aftermarket stuff on it was a K&N and a Magnaflow catback. I'm doing the LMC headlight and the audio system thanks to you guys.
#10
Ungrounded Moderator
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Most members brush off the hatch speakers because they are unimportant. They are there for rear fill only and should not be powerful enough to even be noticeable under normal conditions. Therefore any small speaker that will fit is sufficient as a replacement. If the factory speakers aren't blown or physically damaged then just leave them there. If you need to replace them, just use the most basic (cheapest) speaker you can find.
The signal to the 4" mid is full-range so using the factory tweeter in conjunction with a coaxial would result in too much treble from back there - use the coaxial and leave the tweeter disconnected.
The signal to the 4" mid is full-range so using the factory tweeter in conjunction with a coaxial would result in too much treble from back there - use the coaxial and leave the tweeter disconnected.
#12
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
I have installed the hatch and sail panel speakers, but Im on the door speakers now and don't know to mount the new tweeters in place of the old tweeters. I can't seem to get the old mount to fit the new tweeter, any tips?
#13
What speakers did you get? Are the tweeters .75" or 1.0"? If you bought Kee's convertible CDTs there is a thread where he explains how to separate the tweeters from their outer shell.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ters-door.html
Can someone confirm whether 1" tweeters will fit in the door of a TA/firebird? I'm going to buy something next week and 1" opens up a lot more options.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ters-door.html
Can someone confirm whether 1" tweeters will fit in the door of a TA/firebird? I'm going to buy something next week and 1" opens up a lot more options.