Upgrading my Whole System
03-07-2011, 12:28 PM
#1
Upgrading my Whole System Right now i have the stock monsoon system in my 2000 SS with some Pioneer speakers in the doors. I want to redo everything.
-I want a HU with ipod plug in the front and possibly ipod control as well.
-What speakers do you reccommend? I will be ditching the hatch speakers so i need 2 for the doors and 2 for the rear seat.
-Want to run a 10" sub in a stealth box on the drivers side.
-What should i run for an amp for the sub?
Not trying to break the bank either.
Thanks guys
-I want a HU with ipod plug in the front and possibly ipod control as well.
-What speakers do you reccommend? I will be ditching the hatch speakers so i need 2 for the doors and 2 for the rear seat.
-Want to run a 10" sub in a stealth box on the drivers side.
-What should i run for an amp for the sub?
Not trying to break the bank either.
Thanks guys
03-07-2011, 05:48 PM
#3
If you're speakers are okay, and you're short on cash, all you need is the HU of your choice, the harness and a mounting kit. If you need speakers, check with some of the sponsors in this forum for good choices. You can even modify some coaxial speakers to work if you're trying to save a few bucks and can't afford component speakers. Many of us feel the stock amp is decent for a budget system.
Even if you want to rip out everything and go with a high-end setup, I still suggest NOT going with a local shop until you're up to speed.
03-07-2011, 05:53 PM
#4
i will NOT go to a local shop. I know enough about wiring up systems, im really just looking for some input on some good coaxial speakers for a good price. My buddy put alpine type S in his SS all the way around with a 10" sub, and it sounds pretty good. Is there any better speakers in the price range though?
03-07-2011, 06:11 PM
#5
i will NOT go to a local shop. I know enough about wiring up systems, im really just looking for some input on some good coaxial speakers for a good price. My buddy put alpine type S in his SS all the way around with a 10" sub, and it sounds pretty good. Is there any better speakers in the price range though?
03-07-2011, 09:26 PM
#6
Coaxial speakers won't work right with the stock Monsoon unit - you need true component speakers or like I said, you'll have to modify a set of coaxial speakers. True components are obviously the best way to go. Kee (a sponsor) has a complete speaker package that's basically just plug and play, keeping the Monsoon amp. As far as HU, just pick one you like for the price you like - with the harness, you won't have to do any real cutting or wiring - again, basically just plug and play.
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03-11-2011, 02:41 PM
#9
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If You're running the speakers off the hot wires from a HU then it really only matters about SNR and build quality and cost. Wattage wont matter since the HU only puts out 50 max / 25 rms. I'd say to go as expensive as you can while staying near the max output of the HU and you should be good.
Even though they're usually only recommended if you are sticking with the stock system, infiniti kappa is an easy win for your power range. You will be very very hard pressed to beat them. ~100 per pair. So 200 bucks all around. You wont be sorry with them.
I went a different route and gutted all my wiring and have all my speakers powered off 2 amps with RCA outs from the HU.
Even though they're usually only recommended if you are sticking with the stock system, infiniti kappa is an easy win for your power range. You will be very very hard pressed to beat them. ~100 per pair. So 200 bucks all around. You wont be sorry with them.
I went a different route and gutted all my wiring and have all my speakers powered off 2 amps with RCA outs from the HU.
03-13-2011, 09:32 AM
#10
Personally, I'd go with a good 4 channel for the front doors and sail panel speakers, then a bridged 2 channel, or a mono for the sub. I would NOT run the speakers off the HU.
As for HUs, I have had quite a few, and Pioneer is one of the best for the money. Some will argue about Alpine or Clarion, but they fail to realize how hard some Clarions are to use, and the fact that Alpines get expensive when you start adding stuff like the IMPRINT. Nice feature, though.
As for the front doors, I'd ONLY go with components. CDT, DLS, Focal, and a few others make damn good speakers, and offer very good quality affordable component sets as well as there higher end sets. I'd currently running CDT HD62 Golds and LOVE them. Only reason I'm gonna get rid of them is for a active 3-way front stage.
As for the sail panels, midbass woofers is the best way to go. As for which ones to get, I'd go with the same ones you use up front, but no crossovers or tweeters. Keep in mind you want your sound stage to basically have the lows from as far back as possible, with the highs from as far infront as possible, with the mids in the middle. You don't want highs coming from behind because it'll throw the sound stage off and just sound strange.
As for the sub, I'd find one of the MTX or JL boxes. They have more air space than the standard MDF stealth box and sound better with a good sub. Personally, in that box, something like a RE SEX10. Great sub...
As for the amp or amps, Alpines new series are rather good for a budget amp. Personally, I might would go with something like a RF 25 to Life 5 channel though. VERY nice amp for the money.
Also, keep in mind that the wiring is very important and the LAST place to skimp. I spent almost $500 just on the wiring for my system. The RCAs alone cost almost $150, but I don't have the typical noises coming from them at low volumes like some of the cheaper non-shielded RCAs.
As for HUs, I have had quite a few, and Pioneer is one of the best for the money. Some will argue about Alpine or Clarion, but they fail to realize how hard some Clarions are to use, and the fact that Alpines get expensive when you start adding stuff like the IMPRINT. Nice feature, though.
As for the front doors, I'd ONLY go with components. CDT, DLS, Focal, and a few others make damn good speakers, and offer very good quality affordable component sets as well as there higher end sets. I'd currently running CDT HD62 Golds and LOVE them. Only reason I'm gonna get rid of them is for a active 3-way front stage.
As for the sail panels, midbass woofers is the best way to go. As for which ones to get, I'd go with the same ones you use up front, but no crossovers or tweeters. Keep in mind you want your sound stage to basically have the lows from as far back as possible, with the highs from as far infront as possible, with the mids in the middle. You don't want highs coming from behind because it'll throw the sound stage off and just sound strange.
As for the sub, I'd find one of the MTX or JL boxes. They have more air space than the standard MDF stealth box and sound better with a good sub. Personally, in that box, something like a RE SEX10. Great sub...
As for the amp or amps, Alpines new series are rather good for a budget amp. Personally, I might would go with something like a RF 25 to Life 5 channel though. VERY nice amp for the money.
Also, keep in mind that the wiring is very important and the LAST place to skimp. I spent almost $500 just on the wiring for my system. The RCAs alone cost almost $150, but I don't have the typical noises coming from them at low volumes like some of the cheaper non-shielded RCAs.
03-13-2011, 11:48 AM
#11
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Personally, I'd go with a good 4 channel for the front doors and sail panel speakers, then a bridged 2 channel, or a mono for the sub. I would NOT run the speakers off the HU.
As for HUs, I have had quite a few, and Pioneer is one of the best for the money. Some will argue about Alpine or Clarion, but they fail to realize how hard some Clarions are to use, and the fact that Alpines get expensive when you start adding stuff like the IMPRINT. Nice feature, though.
As for the front doors, I'd ONLY go with components. CDT, DLS, Focal, and a few others make damn good speakers, and offer very good quality affordable component sets as well as there higher end sets. I'd currently running CDT HD62 Golds and LOVE them. Only reason I'm gonna get rid of them is for a active 3-way front stage.
As for the sail panels, midbass woofers is the best way to go. As for which ones to get, I'd go with the same ones you use up front, but no crossovers or tweeters. Keep in mind you want your sound stage to basically have the lows from as far back as possible, with the highs from as far infront as possible, with the mids in the middle. You don't want highs coming from behind because it'll throw the sound stage off and just sound strange.
As for the sub, I'd find one of the MTX or JL boxes. They have more air space than the standard MDF stealth box and sound better with a good sub. Personally, in that box, something like a RE SEX10. Great sub...
As for the amp or amps, Alpines new series are rather good for a budget amp. Personally, I might would go with something like a RF 25 to Life 5 channel though. VERY nice amp for the money.
Also, keep in mind that the wiring is very important and the LAST place to skimp. I spent almost $500 just on the wiring for my system. The RCAs alone cost almost $150, but I don't have the typical noises coming from them at low volumes like some of the cheaper non-shielded RCAs.
As for HUs, I have had quite a few, and Pioneer is one of the best for the money. Some will argue about Alpine or Clarion, but they fail to realize how hard some Clarions are to use, and the fact that Alpines get expensive when you start adding stuff like the IMPRINT. Nice feature, though.
As for the front doors, I'd ONLY go with components. CDT, DLS, Focal, and a few others make damn good speakers, and offer very good quality affordable component sets as well as there higher end sets. I'd currently running CDT HD62 Golds and LOVE them. Only reason I'm gonna get rid of them is for a active 3-way front stage.
As for the sail panels, midbass woofers is the best way to go. As for which ones to get, I'd go with the same ones you use up front, but no crossovers or tweeters. Keep in mind you want your sound stage to basically have the lows from as far back as possible, with the highs from as far infront as possible, with the mids in the middle. You don't want highs coming from behind because it'll throw the sound stage off and just sound strange.
As for the sub, I'd find one of the MTX or JL boxes. They have more air space than the standard MDF stealth box and sound better with a good sub. Personally, in that box, something like a RE SEX10. Great sub...
As for the amp or amps, Alpines new series are rather good for a budget amp. Personally, I might would go with something like a RF 25 to Life 5 channel though. VERY nice amp for the money.
Also, keep in mind that the wiring is very important and the LAST place to skimp. I spent almost $500 just on the wiring for my system. The RCAs alone cost almost $150, but I don't have the typical noises coming from them at low volumes like some of the cheaper non-shielded RCAs.
i think he was trying to avoid rewiring everything and the cost of extra amps and fabbing up (or buying the insanely expensive corner replacement pieces) for the tweeter components.
So that means little more than cutting the end connectors off the stock speaker locations and soldering up new ones and adding a sub.
probably not looking to spend more than 400 bucks altogether.
03-13-2011, 05:34 PM
#13
03-15-2011, 10:15 AM
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because tweeters sound the best when directed directly at your face, not down by your feet. Unfortunately, they also become out of phase when placed far from the woofer they are crossed over with (assuming a crossover is used and unless your tweeters have a dedicated channel from the amp/hu they do). "Far" is roughly 1ft I believe.
So the idea is you get the tweeter mounted high at dash level and the woofer is in the door spot down below. It's well into pushing the "phase" issue at that distance but it's probably not noticeable. You have to fab up your own tweeter mount or buy the outrageously priced corner pieces that mount in place of the little triangles behind your side mirrors on the door.
Since you're working on a tight budget and are running off the HU anyway I think worrying about component systems vs having a 2-way or 3-way single unit speaker is not necessary. Something like the infinite kappa will be plenty good for your needs.
So the idea is you get the tweeter mounted high at dash level and the woofer is in the door spot down below. It's well into pushing the "phase" issue at that distance but it's probably not noticeable. You have to fab up your own tweeter mount or buy the outrageously priced corner pieces that mount in place of the little triangles behind your side mirrors on the door.
Since you're working on a tight budget and are running off the HU anyway I think worrying about component systems vs having a 2-way or 3-way single unit speaker is not necessary. Something like the infinite kappa will be plenty good for your needs.
Last edited by safemode; 03-15-2011 at 10:16 AM. Reason: roughly spelled wrong.
03-15-2011, 11:20 AM
#16