220 amp alternator and "Big 3" on the way. What else do I need?
#1
220 amp alternator and "Big 3" on the way. What else do I need?
Alright guys, my alternator is on the way out. So I ordered a 220 amp alternator. Do I need a 220 amp alternator? No, not really, but if I was ordering an alternator anyway why not order a high output alternator? Obviously I needed the "big 3" to go with the 220 amp, so I just ordered the pre-fabed cables from innovative wiring. YEAH YEAH, you can make the same thing for cheaper, I know! But I really didn't feel like screwing with it to save $50.
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-4511-f...02-8242-5.aspx
http://www.innovativewiring.com/Pont...ontiacPage.htm
No my question is, I've noticed all these mentions a fuse in line with the alternator, is anyone here doing this?
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-4511-f...02-8242-5.aspx
http://www.innovativewiring.com/Pont...ontiacPage.htm
No my question is, I've noticed all these mentions a fuse in line with the alternator, is anyone here doing this?
#2
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no you dont need a fuse.
Hope you dont have the same issues with your 220 amp alt as this guy.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l#post15276701
Hope you dont have the same issues with your 220 amp alt as this guy.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l#post15276701
#3
TECH Addict
You don't absolutely NEED one but I highly recommend it to protect your battery and alternator both. I really do recommend it. Get a weatherproof 0 gauge fuse holder. They are not expensive. If you're running car audio then you can get a dual fuse holder / distribution block so that one side goes to the battery, then there's a fuse that goes to the alternator and a separate fuse that goes to your car audio. Use 0 gauge for the battery and alternator and 4, 2, or 0 gauge for car audio, depending on what you're running. Stock wire to the under-hood fuse/junction box can either go to the battery or you could even get a triple fuse holder and use that.
Oh, and use dielectric grease on your under-the-hood connections, like where the wires go into the fuse block. The same stuff you'd use on spark plug boots or lights. It'll help prevent corrosion.
Oh, and use dielectric grease on your under-the-hood connections, like where the wires go into the fuse block. The same stuff you'd use on spark plug boots or lights. It'll help prevent corrosion.
#6
no you dont need a fuse.
Hope you dont have the same issues with your 220 amp alt as this guy.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l#post15276701
Hope you dont have the same issues with your 220 amp alt as this guy.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l#post15276701
#7
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
i have said it time and time again......tryin to get more amps out of a CS130 is like makin a 2 yr go to sleep with a bottle of whiskey.......it may work.....but its not really the best solution.......the AD244 has the bigger stator......bigger rectifier......voltage regulator.....these bigger parts handle the additional amps better.......and best of all.... IT FITS
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#8
Ive ordered the KG3 as sjsingle1 mentioned, $60 from Ebay...time to remove the stk 105A unit. My stk unit already failed me and was rebuilt. With the age of the car, I dont trust the alt so its being replaced. Ive done alot of upgrades to my car to.
#9
TECH Addict
i have said it time and time again......tryin to get more amps out of a CS130 is like makin a 2 yr go to sleep with a bottle of whiskey.......it may work.....but its not really the best solution.......the AD244 has the bigger stator......bigger rectifier......voltage regulator.....these bigger parts handle the additional amps better.......and best of all.... IT FITS
#11
TECH Addict
I am not familiar with that company but if their work is good then it should be better than stock... just definitely not as good as an AD244. If their work isn't so good then you're going to have idle problems.