Do I need any additional install parts for Pioneer AVIC D3
#1
Do I need any additional install parts for Pioneer AVIC D3
Before I rip apart 2002 Trans Am dash to install my Pioneer AVIC D3, can someone make sure I have all the required parts, please.
I have the following:
Pioneer AVIC D3 (with included wiring)
Bluetooth module (with included wiring)
Metra 70-1858 Radio Wiring Harness
Metra 95-2001 Double DIN install dash kit
PAL SWI-PS steering wheel controls interface
I also have a Double DIN Bezel - (6litereaterdesigns.com)
for now, I'm keeping the monsoon amp/speakers.
Do I need anything for the stock radio antenna - for connection purposes or to have it automatically retract when on/off?
Also, for those that have done this, the AVIC has a separate subwoofer control. Did anyone wire he subs differently, or is it self-explanitory after I get it all apart?
Thanks!
I have the following:
Pioneer AVIC D3 (with included wiring)
Bluetooth module (with included wiring)
Metra 70-1858 Radio Wiring Harness
Metra 95-2001 Double DIN install dash kit
PAL SWI-PS steering wheel controls interface
I also have a Double DIN Bezel - (6litereaterdesigns.com)
for now, I'm keeping the monsoon amp/speakers.
Do I need anything for the stock radio antenna - for connection purposes or to have it automatically retract when on/off?
Also, for those that have done this, the AVIC has a separate subwoofer control. Did anyone wire he subs differently, or is it self-explanitory after I get it all apart?
Thanks!
#6
I have one, mine does not charge the IPod I have purchased the controller on ebay and it did not work, so then I got one from Pioneer and it was the same, I do not know why they dont charge them but it is a pain.
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#8
Ok. I was at the stereo install shop today and they told me that I have the wrong wiring harness. This will cause "cracks" and "pops." I think they want to sell me a $100-150 wiring harness. I have the Meta 70-1858. They also told me that it would take 6-8 hours to install in at $60/hour! Maybe I'll just do it myself. Also, they say the Stereo bezel isn't big enough and there is no way to attach it. All it is, is a flat piece of plastic. After thinking about it, I'm not sure either. Any thoughts??? Thanks!
#9
Copy & Paste Moderator
They are trying to sell you stuff you don't need for greed.
I used the Metra 70-1858 harness in my install.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...installed.html
I used the Metra 70-1858 harness in my install.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...installed.html
#10
Ungrounded Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Ok. I was at the stereo install shop today and they told me that I have the wrong wiring harness. This will cause "cracks" and "pops." I think they want to sell me a $100-150 wiring harness. I have the Meta 70-1858. They also told me that it would take 6-8 hours to install in at $60/hour! Maybe I'll just do it myself. Also, they say the Stereo bezel isn't big enough and there is no way to attach it. All it is, is a flat piece of plastic. After thinking about it, I'm not sure either. Any thoughts??? Thanks!
#12
Copy & Paste Moderator
Which one?
The stock one snaps on/off.
http://users.rcn.com/my57chevy/RadioBezel.wmv
(That is my stock bezel painted black & silver before I replaced the headunit.)
The custom one I have is mostly a pressure fit.
I don't know how aftermarket ones fit since there are a couple different ones. The one that looks like the stock piece probably attaches like stock. I don't know how the "flat" ones attach.
The stock one snaps on/off.
http://users.rcn.com/my57chevy/RadioBezel.wmv
(That is my stock bezel painted black & silver before I replaced the headunit.)
The custom one I have is mostly a pressure fit.
I don't know how aftermarket ones fit since there are a couple different ones. The one that looks like the stock piece probably attaches like stock. I don't know how the "flat" ones attach.
#14
Copy & Paste Moderator
Its an easy headunit install as long as you have some basic tools for cutting / crimping / trimming the wires and trimming the opening in the dash.
Take a look at my install for some pics of what to trim in the dash opening.
Wiring is easy and you can do it at a table. Take the Metra harness and the headunit harness. Trim the wires down so the final assembled length is around 6" or shorter. You can make it as long or short as you wish; just be aware that too long means too much wire to shove behind the radio and too short makes connections difficult. Match up the wires on the Metra harness and headunit harness according to their respective instructions (the colors usually line up too). Connect the wires the way you want. Some people just crimp with the standard covered automotive butt crimp connectors. I prefer to crimp / solder / heat-shrink for a better connection.
That's it for wiring. the only other "wire" is the GM antenna adapter which will adapt the mini GM male antenna connector to the standard aftermarket Motorola male antenna connector. So basically one end of the adapter is a female mini GM connector and the other end is a male Motorola connector.
Now onto mounting. Trim the dash opening as needed for the headunit to fit. If you have a pre-made mounting bracket, use it. Otherwise make your own brackets like I did.
Attach the mounting brackets to the headunit.
If you have a GPS, XM, or Bluetooth, you'll have to mount those boxes & antennae somewhere and route their wires to the headunit. I mounted my GPS antenna to the flat metal part of the dash under the plastic cover (see my thread for a reference pic). And I mounted the bluetooth module behind the glovebox.
Connect the adapter harness you just assembled between the headunit and car's stock harness.
Connect the antenna adapter between the headunit and stock antenna wire.
Leave the stock CD changer harness disconnected.
If you bought a steering wheel control adapter, plug the steering wheel control harness into it and plug the other end of the adapter into the back of the headunit. The adapter will need to be programmed.
Carefully guide the wires back and out of the way as you push the headunit into place. Screw in the screws to securely fasten the headunit.
Attach bezel.
Program the steering wheel adapter.
Enjoy your new headunit.
Take a look at my install for some pics of what to trim in the dash opening.
Wiring is easy and you can do it at a table. Take the Metra harness and the headunit harness. Trim the wires down so the final assembled length is around 6" or shorter. You can make it as long or short as you wish; just be aware that too long means too much wire to shove behind the radio and too short makes connections difficult. Match up the wires on the Metra harness and headunit harness according to their respective instructions (the colors usually line up too). Connect the wires the way you want. Some people just crimp with the standard covered automotive butt crimp connectors. I prefer to crimp / solder / heat-shrink for a better connection.
That's it for wiring. the only other "wire" is the GM antenna adapter which will adapt the mini GM male antenna connector to the standard aftermarket Motorola male antenna connector. So basically one end of the adapter is a female mini GM connector and the other end is a male Motorola connector.
Now onto mounting. Trim the dash opening as needed for the headunit to fit. If you have a pre-made mounting bracket, use it. Otherwise make your own brackets like I did.
Attach the mounting brackets to the headunit.
If you have a GPS, XM, or Bluetooth, you'll have to mount those boxes & antennae somewhere and route their wires to the headunit. I mounted my GPS antenna to the flat metal part of the dash under the plastic cover (see my thread for a reference pic). And I mounted the bluetooth module behind the glovebox.
Connect the adapter harness you just assembled between the headunit and car's stock harness.
Connect the antenna adapter between the headunit and stock antenna wire.
Leave the stock CD changer harness disconnected.
If you bought a steering wheel control adapter, plug the steering wheel control harness into it and plug the other end of the adapter into the back of the headunit. The adapter will need to be programmed.
Carefully guide the wires back and out of the way as you push the headunit into place. Screw in the screws to securely fasten the headunit.
Attach bezel.
Program the steering wheel adapter.
Enjoy your new headunit.
#16
Copy & Paste Moderator
I forgot to mention that the small standing support brace at the back of the tray at the bottom of the opening in the dash will also have to be removed. Its made of plastic and metal. Cut off the plastic and bend down the metal.