kee audio Camaro Premium package installation????
03-03-2011, 05:50 PM
#1
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kee audio Camaro Premium package installation???? I just got in the kee audio Camaro Premium speakers package
1.) CDT EU-61CV 6.5" cast frame component speaker system (doors)
2.) CDT CL-6 6.5" midwoofer drivers (sail panels)
3.) CDT CL-4EX 4" coaxials (rear hatch)
are all speakers (front doors,sail panel and rear hatch) have to be connected in parallel?
which speakers set need a sound deadener to be installed with it?
can i use the stock speaker wires or do I need to use new wires?
1.) CDT EU-61CV 6.5" cast frame component speaker system (doors)
2.) CDT CL-6 6.5" midwoofer drivers (sail panels)
3.) CDT CL-4EX 4" coaxials (rear hatch)
are all speakers (front doors,sail panel and rear hatch) have to be connected in parallel?
which speakers set need a sound deadener to be installed with it?
can i use the stock speaker wires or do I need to use new wires?
03-03-2011, 06:26 PM
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I just got in the kee audio Camaro Premium speakers package
1.) CDT EU-61CV 6.5" cast frame component speaker system (doors)
2.) CDT CL-6 6.5" midwoofer drivers (sail panels)
3.) CDT CL-4EX 4" coaxials (rear hatch)
are all speakers (front doors,sail panel and rear hatch) have to be connected in parallel?
which speakers set need a sound deadener to be installed with it?
can i use the stock speaker wires or do I need to use new wires?
1.) CDT EU-61CV 6.5" cast frame component speaker system (doors)
2.) CDT CL-6 6.5" midwoofer drivers (sail panels)
3.) CDT CL-4EX 4" coaxials (rear hatch)
are all speakers (front doors,sail panel and rear hatch) have to be connected in parallel?
which speakers set need a sound deadener to be installed with it?
can i use the stock speaker wires or do I need to use new wires?
None of the speakers "have" to be wired parallel.
Sound deadener isn't required, but will help in ALL cases. The more you have, the better your car will be insulated and the better your audio will sound. This is the most underrated aspect of car audio that many people tend to overlook. Period.
You can use whatever the hell you want to wire your speakers, but the bigger the better...always. THe thicker you go the more consistency you will have - you wouldn't use 16 gauge wire to ground your battery, would you?
03-04-2011, 07:34 AM
#3
If you are installing the kit in a Monsoon equipped car then none of the speakers will be wired in parallel. The door components have connections to match the two pairs of wires in the factory configuration. The CL-6 sail panel woofers are SVC to match the factory wiring and the hatch speakers are coaxial to match the factory wiring.
And "bigger is better" is only true up to a point. The trade-off with larger wire is lack of flexibility and difficulty running it in tight spaces behind panels and under carpet. Just as you wouldn't use 16 gauge to ground your battery, you wouldn't use 8 gauge for speaker wire. If you are keeping the Monsoon amp then the factory wiring is quite sufficient. If you are running your own amp then 16 gauge (or even 18 gauge) is plenty except for high power applications.
And "bigger is better" is only true up to a point. The trade-off with larger wire is lack of flexibility and difficulty running it in tight spaces behind panels and under carpet. Just as you wouldn't use 16 gauge to ground your battery, you wouldn't use 8 gauge for speaker wire. If you are keeping the Monsoon amp then the factory wiring is quite sufficient. If you are running your own amp then 16 gauge (or even 18 gauge) is plenty except for high power applications.
03-04-2011, 01:04 PM
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And "bigger is better" is only true up to a point. The trade-off with larger wire is lack of flexibility and difficulty running it in tight spaces behind panels and under carpet. Just as you wouldn't use 16 gauge to ground your battery, you wouldn't use 8 gauge for speaker wire. If you are keeping the Monsoon amp then the factory wiring is quite sufficient. If you are running your own amp then 16 gauge (or even 18 gauge) is plenty except for high power applications.
03-04-2011, 01:35 PM
#5
This isn't a case of agree or disagree - it's all about numbers. You're going with your gut feeling rather than the numbers. That's like somebody who insists on changing oil every 3,000 miles despite only needing it perhaps half that often (or even less on newer cars). It won't hurt anything but you're spending money unnecessarily just to feel better about it.
The Monsoon system produces about 240 watts RMS into eight channels. That's about 30 watts or 2.5 amps per channel. With a maximum run of let's say 20 feet, even 18 gauge is more than big enough to handle the current with insignificant loss.
Now if you run a common 4-channel aftermarket amp like an Alpine, you're pushing 50 watts RMS to the speakers or just over 4 amps per channel. Again, 18 gauge is sufficient although 16 gauge would give some headroom. Anything larger than that may make you feel better but it's not going to make any difference in sound output and it will cost more, be less flexible and more difficult to install.
The Monsoon system produces about 240 watts RMS into eight channels. That's about 30 watts or 2.5 amps per channel. With a maximum run of let's say 20 feet, even 18 gauge is more than big enough to handle the current with insignificant loss.
Now if you run a common 4-channel aftermarket amp like an Alpine, you're pushing 50 watts RMS to the speakers or just over 4 amps per channel. Again, 18 gauge is sufficient although 16 gauge would give some headroom. Anything larger than that may make you feel better but it's not going to make any difference in sound output and it will cost more, be less flexible and more difficult to install.
03-04-2011, 09:26 PM
#6
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I dont get it,,i connected + to + and - to - for one of the sail panel speaker and it sounds really low? what am I doing wrong?
should all the speakers be connected before i test them?
<<---noob when it comes to speakers
should all the speakers be connected before i test them?
<<---noob when it comes to speakers
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03-05-2011, 08:24 AM
#9
I'm not sure what you did. The CL-6 is a single voice coil speaker so it only has one positive and one negative terminal. Just connect the factory positive wire to the positive terminal and the negative wire to the negative terminal. There is no cross-connecting necessary.
03-05-2011, 08:52 PM
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I'm not sure what you did. The CL-6 is a single voice coil speaker so it only has one positive and one negative terminal. Just connect the factory positive wire to the positive terminal and the negative wire to the negative terminal. There is no cross-connecting necessary.
they worked perfect except for the sail panel speakers, they are really low in volume
08-31-2011, 01:17 PM
#12
These are the CL-6M that are subwoofers, not the standard CL-6 which also worked but these are better for bass response. I am not sure why you would not be getting good bass from them as they do very well. What level do you have the EQ set on for bass? Double check the polarity as well. Also if you do not have a good seal around the edge of the sub then air can get around it and lower bass response as well. I have seen this happen a few times. A small amount if deadener can be placed around it to ensure a good seal like this:
Installed looks like this:
I would recommend using the stuff they have at Home Depot in the roofing section. I used Dynamat in this case but did just chck out the stuff at Home Depot that people have been talking about on here and it is very similar maybe slightly thinner but would do the job just as well and is like $16.00 for a whole roll that you can do the edge and behind the sub. I did do behind the sub as well but it isn't pictured there.
Installed looks like this:
I would recommend using the stuff they have at Home Depot in the roofing section. I used Dynamat in this case but did just chck out the stuff at Home Depot that people have been talking about on here and it is very similar maybe slightly thinner but would do the job just as well and is like $16.00 for a whole roll that you can do the edge and behind the sub. I did do behind the sub as well but it isn't pictured there.
09-10-2011, 10:38 PM
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I am also considering the Firebird $289 package. Is this as straight forward as unplugging the 10 speaker elements and plug in the new ones? This does replace ALL speaker elements, right?
How difficult will it be down the road to swap out the HU and still have the steering wheel controls working?
Aside from some sound deading mat, is there anything recommended or needed outside of the kit for installation?
How difficult will it be down the road to swap out the HU and still have the steering wheel controls working?
Aside from some sound deading mat, is there anything recommended or needed outside of the kit for installation?
09-12-2011, 02:17 PM
#14
I am also considering the Firebird $289 package. Is this as straight forward as unplugging the 10 speaker elements and plug in the new ones? This does replace ALL speaker elements, right?
How difficult will it be down the road to swap out the HU and still have the steering wheel controls working?
Aside from some sound deading mat, is there anything recommended or needed outside of the kit for installation?
How difficult will it be down the road to swap out the HU and still have the steering wheel controls working?
Aside from some sound deading mat, is there anything recommended or needed outside of the kit for installation?
Nothing aftermarket is plug and play. Almost nothing...lol. You cannot buy an aftermarket speaker that plugs directly into a stock connector there are too many manufacturers of vehicles for audio manufacturers to make a specific speaker for a specific vehicle, make and model.
For installation you simply reuse the connector off the old speaker. This does 2 things...one, it makes sure you are using the right connector for the right speaker and 2 makes sure you have the right connector to plug back into the stock harness inside the car. It is easy to do and makes the installation simple.
Swapping out the head unit and keeping the steering controls is easy but you must use a PAC adapter to keep the steering controls and a unit that is steering controls ready. Again no aftermarket head unit is compatible or keeps your steering controls on it's own. The PAC adapter is made to retain the steering controls and is unit specific so that you can retain these controls. Most are easy to install. I can do an entire package with the PAC adapter and a nice brand name radio starting under $150.00 with illumination that matches your interior...red...and dual aux inputs.
Last edited by KEE AUDIO; 09-12-2011 at 06:02 PM.
09-12-2011, 02:57 PM
#15
... Nothing aftermarket is plug and play. Nothing. You cannot buy an aftermarket speaker that plugs directly into a stock connector there are too many manufacturers of vehicles for audio manufacturers to make a specific speaker for a specific vehicle, make and model...
Pioneer makes 6x8 speakers that are direct plug-and-play for Ford vehicles (complete with factory connectors).
