ChadDub

title says it all really. I want to do it to both windows but since it's titled "Passenger Fix kit" I'm wondering if I can use it for the driver's side as well. Are they both wired the same way? My driver's side window's motor just died today and it's a bummer.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

they do sell a drivers side kit

Snake_Skinner

iTrader: (12)

^ Isn't it just an express down kit, I thought the drivers side already had power routed directly to the motor so there's nothing you can do for it(kit wise)?

ChadDub

Oh I just found it, thanks.

God damn, it costs 100 more $ than the Passenger Kit? Wtf? I'm gonna have to think about this...

To the other guy, yes, it's an Express Down Kit, but it comes with the same stuff as the passenger's kit so I'm pretty sure it's the same thing except it comes with the one touch down thing.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

They don't fix anything, they just make a bad motor look good. Given that you can get a lifetime warranty motor for much less, I can't for the life of me understand where the value is in the kit.

Maybe it will reduce the interval between motor changes, but after you do it for the fifth time, it gets really easy.

ChadDub

Are you saying that the driver's side kit AND the passenger side kit don't help? Or are you just talking about the Driver's side kit?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Both help and make a bad motor look better. But its far less expensive just to purchase a new motor with a lifetime warranty.

ChadDub

Alright I'm just gonna buy this:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...3_0_1264_78655

Do I need to buy a new regulator as well or is it just the motor?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

That's the one. If you follow this method and instructions, you won't have to remove or replace the regulator. Once you do this one time and drill the holes, any future changes will go faster:
http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html

Snake_Skinner

iTrader: (12)

OP save some money and try this, let us know how it works.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...tors-pics.html

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

It DOES fix the underlying problem, which is crappy factory wiring. Have you ever put a voltmeter on the motor with the factory wiring? It is pretty abysmal. The Autotrix kit fixes that. Heck my passenger motor went from almost unusable to going faster than my brand new driver motor, all because the wiring to it no longer sucked. Yes, the motor still had its original wear, but I ended up never having to replace it. How many people can say they have the original factory motor in their 12 year old fbody with over 160k miles, that works better than new? For the price of 1 motor you can install this kit and never have to replace a motor again. Who really wants to spend the money and time replacing those darn motors over and over? I'd rather fix something once and be done with it.

I imagine the driver side kit is so much more expensive because it retains the express down feature. I'm sure there is a way to adapt the passenger side kit to work on the driver side, but express down would no longer work properly.

Snake_Skinner

iTrader: (12)

So if you don't care about the express down feature, can you just buy the passenger autotrix kit and just bypass the EDM and fix the problem? or can you bypass the EDM w/o even buying a kit possibly?

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Probably. I was looking into maybe doing that on mine but never got around to it, and now I don't have the car anymore. I could still look at the wiring diagrams however.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i have the passenger side kit with express down......LUV IT......will be putting in new drivers side motor and AT kit in soon

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

There is nothing wrong with the wires or wiring. People freak out when they see this myth and its simply not true. The wires are the same quality, using the same parts used on the rest of the car, and are routed no differently than many other car models on the road today.

The door wiring has some length to it when you measure from the battery. This introduces increased resistance, causing a small (and nominal) voltage drop. The Autotrix kit "works" by providing a shorter path from the battery, reducing resistance in the circuit, and increasing voltage by a small amount.

So, if the window circuits and windows work perfectly fine from the factory, we can't reasonably blame "the wiring" when performance degrades. The motors wear out - the wiring does not. When the motors wear out, providing them with increased voltage will boost their performance significantly. Considering that this exact motor design was first invented for and used on a 1969 car, with smaller and lighter windows, its no wonder there are problems.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

That's part of the problem - the wires are the same as all the other wires (including the speaker wire!) and the wires are really too thin for the job. And no, most cars have relays in the doors now. You can hear the relay click in each door when operating the windows. And most cars these days have few issues with the windows. Partly because they are better at making the motors themselves, and also because the wiring is better designed.

This is the problem. The wire is thin and long, and creates increased resistance. And you're right that the shorter distance helps. The other thing that helps is the thicker gauge wire. But again, have you ever put a voltmeter on the motor with the stock wiring and have actually seen the voltage in operation?

Come on. There are many things that work "perfectly fine" from the factory but we know suck after a while on many cars.

The motors work fine from the factory, but I can guarantee you that if you took an fbody when it was brand new and installed the autotrix kit (or heck just made your own relay kit, it really isn't that hard, autotrix just has everything you need in a nice package), the motor would operate faster even then.

If the factory wiring is "just fine" and don't cause much voltage drop, and the autotrix only increases voltage by a "small amount" how does it even make such a noticeable difference? The answer is because the factory wiring causes a fairly large voltage drop. You have a long length of pretty thin wire running on a DC circuit that has a relatively high load - a prime setup for voltage drop.

Barring all that, we still go back to my previous comment - Why would you really want to replace motors 5 times when for the price of 1 motor you can install this kit and not have to replace the motor again? Or even if you did, it wouldn't need replaced 5 times through the life of the car. I think 5 times is a little bit of an exaggeration, but you came up with the number 5, not me, so I'm just using it

ChadDub

Goin buy a solderin iron, some wire, and solder tomorrow. Gonna do this and have brand new windows

EDIT: Actually, I think it'll just be best to buy the Dorman motor and replace the OEM one. Both methods should deem the same result, but the soldering one is a bit harder than just replacing the shitty OEM motor with a good one that'll actually last.

randay_redZ28

iTrader: (2)

going back to the ques. Will the $30 kit work for the driver side? i think i read somewhere it will work, you just need to wire the kit a little different. Has anyone tried this before? If so, how is it wired?

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

And from what I remember, the pass side power is routed through the driver's side switch. That is part of the problem.

Personally, i'd just do the thermal mod to the driver's side and call it good. The power is more direct on the driver's side. Pass side has to go through a lot more BS and that's where the voltage drop occurs.