Hella 100w / 80w bulbs in a 2000 Z28 Camaro
02-29-2012, 11:06 AM
#2
Copy & Paste Moderator
Get a relay harness to get them the power they need and prevent the stock harness from melting.
Also, the extra heat may be an issue for the headlight housings.
Also, the extra heat may be an issue for the headlight housings.
02-29-2012, 12:38 PM
#3
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After looking around, I think this might be more at home in the "Appearance" forum. Sorry.
Are there any relay kits that don't cost $100+ dollars? Relays aren't but about $10 each for good ones and wire isn't making up the remaining $60 on the kits I'm seeing...
I'm not aware of OEM style high-temp housings. These are not HID bulbs, either, they are just high-watt halogens.
Are there any relay kits that don't cost $100+ dollars? Relays aren't but about $10 each for good ones and wire isn't making up the remaining $60 on the kits I'm seeing...
I'm not aware of OEM style high-temp housings. These are not HID bulbs, either, they are just high-watt halogens.
02-29-2012, 01:01 PM
#4
Copy & Paste Moderator
I realize you are talking about Halogen bulbs and not an HID kit. I was just clarifying that higher wattage bulbs put out more heat.
You could make your own relay harness. I made mine. Its easy.
Otherwise, the only relay harnesses I've seen are for HID kits and wouldn't work for you since they often only have 1 relay and only tap into 1 bulb socket. You need your harness to work with input from both bulbs and have separate wiring and relays for each. They are far less than $100 though. If you find a HID Kit relay harness built like that with sufficient gauge wiring, then it make work for you. Otherwise, you'll have to make your own.
You could make your own relay harness. I made mine. Its easy.
Otherwise, the only relay harnesses I've seen are for HID kits and wouldn't work for you since they often only have 1 relay and only tap into 1 bulb socket. You need your harness to work with input from both bulbs and have separate wiring and relays for each. They are far less than $100 though. If you find a HID Kit relay harness built like that with sufficient gauge wiring, then it make work for you. Otherwise, you'll have to make your own.
Last edited by VIP1; 02-29-2012 at 01:07 PM.
02-29-2012, 01:09 PM
#5
Copy & Paste Moderator
Here is the harness I built for my 55watt HID kit:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/11372672-post34.html
Each bulb is independent with its own:
* Power Input Wires
* Power Output Wires
* Ground Wires
* Trigger Wires
* Relay
* Fuse
There is nothing shared between them.
I used 14 AWG wiring which should be enough for 100 watt Halogen bulbs as well (you could go with 12 AWG for an extra margin of safety, but it might be too thick). The stock wiring is 18AWG.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/11372672-post34.html
Each bulb is independent with its own:
* Power Input Wires
* Power Output Wires
* Ground Wires
* Trigger Wires
* Relay
* Fuse
There is nothing shared between them.
I used 14 AWG wiring which should be enough for 100 watt Halogen bulbs as well (you could go with 12 AWG for an extra margin of safety, but it might be too thick). The stock wiring is 18AWG.
Last edited by VIP1; 02-29-2012 at 01:19 PM.
02-29-2012, 04:18 PM
#6
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I will basically need one of these for the low beams and one for the high beams, because they are all electrically independent (according to you and the Haynes book.) Good info.
I will be doing the high beams first, because HPD are tight wads and I will just run the brights when nobody is around.
I will be doing the high beams first, because HPD are tight wads and I will just run the brights when nobody is around.
02-29-2012, 04:35 PM
#7
Copy & Paste Moderator
I was referring to the harness I built when I said that everything was independent. I don't remember if the low beams in the stock wiring share a fuse or relay for the 2 bulbs (I think they do).
The harness I built in the pic above is only for the low beams.
The harness I built in the pic above is only for the low beams.
Trending Topics
02-29-2012, 05:37 PM
#8
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I might rewire it so I can run lows and highs at the same time and use two switches in the cabin to control it, bypassing the typical automatic light sensor and selector switch altogether. Have you heard of anyone doing this or it causing any problems with the Daytime Running Lights / parking lights, etc?
I have one set of relays and wire on the way for the high beams. I'll pick some fuses up at Radioshack.
Edit: No more might, stuff is on the way and my dad's on board as well if I need help. I'll dedicate one relay to high and one to lows instead of an independent setup. They are 50amp relays so they definitely will not be the weak point. I'll mount two rocker switches in the cabin in the two blanks on the dash. I think they are to the left of the steering wheel under the normal light selector switch.
I have one set of relays and wire on the way for the high beams. I'll pick some fuses up at Radioshack.
Edit: No more might, stuff is on the way and my dad's on board as well if I need help. I'll dedicate one relay to high and one to lows instead of an independent setup. They are 50amp relays so they definitely will not be the weak point. I'll mount two rocker switches in the cabin in the two blanks on the dash. I think they are to the left of the steering wheel under the normal light selector switch.
Last edited by gta3uzi; 02-29-2012 at 07:16 PM.
02-29-2012, 09:02 PM
#9
Copy & Paste Moderator
You don't need extra switches. Its just extra unneeded work. You can easily make 2 minor changes to have the low beams stay on with the high beams and to disable the auto lights. Both modifications are listed in the Lighting FAQ.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearance-detailing/710357-lighting-faq.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearance-detailing/710357-lighting-faq.html
02-29-2012, 10:07 PM
#10
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Those are definitely things to consider. I have about a week before I have to make a decision on that because of shipping time, and we have drawn up plans for a separate system. We may wind up adding more lights in the fog light location or in the openings in the front bumper if this still doesn't supply enough light.
I also like the simplicity of swapping back to a 100% stock configuration very easily with two systems in place since I will not be stripping or modifying the factory wiring / sensors. On top of that there is the knowledge of knowing exactly how it works and not wondering what's going on in the factory wiring, which makes field repairs SUPER easy.
Installing switches isn't an issue. Tiny wires, tiny holes in the firewall (if I even have to drill / grommet them)
I also like the simplicity of swapping back to a 100% stock configuration very easily with two systems in place since I will not be stripping or modifying the factory wiring / sensors. On top of that there is the knowledge of knowing exactly how it works and not wondering what's going on in the factory wiring, which makes field repairs SUPER easy.
Installing switches isn't an issue. Tiny wires, tiny holes in the firewall (if I even have to drill / grommet them)
03-04-2012, 10:27 PM
#12
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would rather make them myself that this point because I can overbuild the system as much as I want. Good quality, 50-amp relays should be plenty. 
The relays, wiring, switches, connections, etc are all on order and should be here around my birthday. I'll get to work building the relay assembly and testing the system before I run the cable into the cabin and mount the switches. Troubleshooting is much easier before you've run everything through the interior...
Edit:
The last big electrical system I installed in a car was in my 2000 Maxima for the two 12" Orion subwoofers I installed in a big ported box. I was driving them with a 900w RMS Kenwood amp and the doors on the car would separate from the body about 1/8" to 1/4" when the bass hit. I never had an ounce of trouble out of that system. The interior does need some help, though.
The relays, wiring, switches, connections, etc are all on order and should be here around my birthday. I'll get to work building the relay assembly and testing the system before I run the cable into the cabin and mount the switches. Troubleshooting is much easier before you've run everything through the interior...
Edit:
The last big electrical system I installed in a car was in my 2000 Maxima for the two 12" Orion subwoofers I installed in a big ported box. I was driving them with a 900w RMS Kenwood amp and the doors on the car would separate from the body about 1/8" to 1/4" when the bass hit. I never had an ounce of trouble out of that system. The interior does need some help, though.
Last edited by gta3uzi; 03-04-2012 at 10:37 PM.
03-07-2012, 01:22 PM
#13
VIP1 is correct - you're going to a whole lot of trouble for no good reason other than you got it in your head that switches and rewiring would be necessary.
A simple jumper across the wires of the photosensor will disable the automatic headlights by making the system "see" daylight all the time. This is exactly how the factory set up Firebirds - same wiring as a Camaro except that there is no sensor and the sensor wires are shorted together.
An equally simple jumper will do the same thing for running low beams with high beams. Again, the modification merely duplicates the wiring as it is from the factory in a Firebird so it's perfectly safe.
Finally, you only need two relays (one for low beam and one for high beam) if you really plan to run them all at the same time (overkill in my opinion and I'm glad I won't be driving in that area
). If you retain the factory separation of beams, you can use a single 5-pin SPDT relay instead. Whichever way you decide, just use the factory high beam and/or low beam wiring as the power to the relay coil, ground the other side of the relay coil, provide fused power from the battery on terminal 30 and route the output to the appropriate bulb on both sides. No extra switches are necessary or desirable.
A simple jumper across the wires of the photosensor will disable the automatic headlights by making the system "see" daylight all the time. This is exactly how the factory set up Firebirds - same wiring as a Camaro except that there is no sensor and the sensor wires are shorted together.
An equally simple jumper will do the same thing for running low beams with high beams. Again, the modification merely duplicates the wiring as it is from the factory in a Firebird so it's perfectly safe.
Finally, you only need two relays (one for low beam and one for high beam) if you really plan to run them all at the same time (overkill in my opinion and I'm glad I won't be driving in that area
). If you retain the factory separation of beams, you can use a single 5-pin SPDT relay instead. Whichever way you decide, just use the factory high beam and/or low beam wiring as the power to the relay coil, ground the other side of the relay coil, provide fused power from the battery on terminal 30 and route the output to the appropriate bulb on both sides. No extra switches are necessary or desirable. 