TAIL TPS / Dimmer diagram
05-26-2007, 04:43 PM
#2
Originally Posted by srproductions
Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the TAIL TPS to DIMMER in the fuse pannel?
05-28-2007, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
There's not much to it. The TAIL LPS fuse provides power to the headlight switch through the orange wire. When the headlight switch is in the on or park position it outputs power through the brown wire. That brown wire goes to the input side of the dimmer switch rheostat. The dimmer rheostat outputs variable voltage through the dark green wire to the IP DIMMER fuse in the fuse panel. Output from that fuse is on the gray wire and it goes to the instrument panel illumination.
Thanks a bunch!
08-06-2012, 06:16 PM
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okay. switch is cracked blows the 5 amp fuse like popcorn. i removed it, and have a pretty cool looking toggle to replace it with, red LED and what not. ive tried wiring up the switch but no combo ive found makes any of the HVAC or guage lights come on. however i can get about 4 different ways to get dome and mirror lights to come on with it. i know bulbs are good. if there is another problem its past the switch and before the bulbs, and i have no idea how to search for a problem with that. but im 99.9 % sure its just the old switch. so looking to bypass it seeing as i have no concern for the dimmer. i prefer the full brightness. plus it would be a neat little appearance upgrade. i was going to wire the HVAC and deash lights on one switch, and the interior lamps and dome light on another. this mod wont cause my car to burn down though will it? lol
08-07-2012, 08:07 AM
#7
Your assumptions are incorrect. The 5A IP DIMMER fuse is after the switch in the dash light circuit so a bad switch would not cause that fuse to blow. You've got a short someplace else in the circuit after the fuse. A bad dimmer switch would cause the 20A TAIL LPS fuse to blow.
Besides, there would be no need for a switch if you just want to leave the lights at full brightness all the time - just splice the brown wire to the dark green wire at the original dimmer switch. And then plan on never driving outside well lit city areas at night because the bright dash lights will destroy your night vision in dark rural areas.
Besides, there would be no need for a switch if you just want to leave the lights at full brightness all the time - just splice the brown wire to the dark green wire at the original dimmer switch. And then plan on never driving outside well lit city areas at night because the bright dash lights will destroy your night vision in dark rural areas.
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08-07-2012, 02:21 PM
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Your assumptions are incorrect. The 5A IP DIMMER fuse is after the switch in the dash light circuit so a bad switch would not cause that fuse to blow. You've got a short someplace else in the circuit after the fuse. A bad dimmer switch would cause the 20A TAIL LPS fuse to blow.
Besides, there would be no need for a switch if you just want to leave the lights at full brightness all the time - just splice the brown wire to the dark green wire at the original dimmer switch. And then plan on never driving outside well lit city areas at night because the bright dash lights will destroy your night vision in dark rural areas.
Besides, there would be no need for a switch if you just want to leave the lights at full brightness all the time - just splice the brown wire to the dark green wire at the original dimmer switch. And then plan on never driving outside well lit city areas at night because the bright dash lights will destroy your night vision in dark rural areas.
08-07-2012, 02:31 PM
#9
That makes perfect sense. When you have the dimmer switch turned all the way down, the rheostat (dimmer switch) is limiting the voltage going to the rest of the circuit so there isn't enough to blow the downstream IP DIMMER fuse. Turn it up and the fuse blows. You have no light because the combination of reduced voltage and a short somewhere in the circuit is limiting the current reaching the bulbs.
I assume you're not driving on the street with disabled markers and license lights? That's why you don't care about having a proper dimmer?
I assume you're not driving on the street with disabled markers and license lights? That's why you don't care about having a proper dimmer?
08-07-2012, 11:10 PM
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That makes perfect sense. When you have the dimmer switch turned all the way down, the rheostat (dimmer switch) is limiting the voltage going to the rest of the circuit so there isn't enough to blow the downstream IP DIMMER fuse. Turn it up and the fuse blows. You have no light because the combination of reduced voltage and a short somewhere in the circuit is limiting the current reaching the bulbs.
I assume you're not driving on the street with disabled markers and license lights? That's why you don't care about having a proper dimmer?
I assume you're not driving on the street with disabled markers and license lights? That's why you don't care about having a proper dimmer?
and in backwoods eastern TN, folks are doing good to drive with a front windshield or hood or doors. lol we dont have emissions here either. plus it helps that my father is a sherriff's deputy. lol so all the cops in the county already know my car. so the amount of leniency i have to play with is just about anything excusing somethings where you would be jaw dropped that it was actually on the road.
but idc about the dimmer bc ever since i have owned the car i always drive with it on as bright as it will go. its never once hindered my vision.
08-09-2012, 12:42 PM
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WhiteBird00 need some help again. my lights are working great. but now about 45sec-1min after i put the car in drive, my alternator quits charging the car. or at least the gauges tell me that. it moves down to about 9-10 volts which im assuming is what the battery is giving it bc the gauge usually sets between 12-13. so when i got the car home last night i pulled the positive side of the battery and it shut off. indicating the alternator wasnt not giving juice. then restarted the car and tried it again, but when i restarted the car, the gauge was reading right, and the check gauges light was not on. and when i pull the + side on the battery the car continued running. so im assuming its a connection problem, as i just had the alternator rebuild by a shop with a very good reputation for their alternator work. my question is where in the heck do i start looking? would i have caused this problem pulling and tugging on the wires behind my gauge cluster when i was searching for the problem that was causing my IP Dimmer fuse to blow?
