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Subwoofer screws for JL 12w3v3?

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Old 01-23-2013, 06:29 PM
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Default Subwoofer screws for JL 12w3v3?

Hello, this is the second JL sub I purchased, and once again did not include screws (not sure why they don't, makes it difficult for me to match the screws up at the Home Depot).

Anyway, I picked up a 12w3v3 woofer to go in a new box for my GTO, and noticed that I cannot use the same thickness as I used for my Formula's 12w3 "V2" woofer since the new 12w3v3 has a plastic trim ring the screw must pass through before mounting the woofer (doesn't seem like this would be too sturdy). When I mounted my 12w3v2 woofer in my Formula, I was able to use a thick screw that was able to fit through the mounting holes on the woofer with no problem, and if I were to use those same screws for the 12w3v3, it would certainly break the plastic as the threads would not fit, and the head would also not fit flush and the mount would not be secure.

That actually leads me to another question -- what do people do if they upgrade their subwoofer and have to use a "thinner" screw because the new woofer won't accept as thick of a screw as the old one did?

Reason I'm concerned is because if my current 12w3v2 in my Formula blows out (although still going very strong after 7-8 years), what would I do? The box I have is no longer made, so I can't just get a new box.

Thanks!
Old 01-24-2013, 01:37 PM
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Subs never come with screws; in all my life I've never had a subwoofer that came with screws.

If you're worried about screwing in smaller screws into a box that used to have thicker screws, you have a few options:

1) Rotate the sub such that the new screws go into virgin material. (assuming screws are threading into box.)

2) get a bunch of Golf-Tees; drill out the current screw holes with a drill JUST smaller than the golf tees. Then use some wood-glue and push/drive the golf tees into the holes; allow the glue to dry; then cut off the extra material inside/outside the box. Drill the properly sized pilot hole and use the new screws. (Again assuming screws that thread into the box)

3) The other option, which is how I normally mount my subwoofers; is get and install some T-Nuts and use a machine screw instead of screws that thread into the box.
Old 01-24-2013, 05:49 PM
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Thanks, I was actually thinking of Option 3 as a possibility (should I ever need to replace the sub, and might use this method to mount the new sub in my GTO box when I get it).

Option 2 sounds interesting.......but Option 1 is.....not an option for me!
Old 01-26-2013, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff 97 Formula
Thanks, I was actually thinking of Option 3 as a possibility (should I ever need to replace the sub, and might use this method to mount the new sub in my GTO box when I get it).

Option 2 sounds interesting.......but Option 1 is.....not an option for me!
Option 2 is a common wood working technique for fixing stripped threaded holes in wood. Works great; I use it all the time. Just have to make sure the glue is completely dried before drilling the new pilot holes.
Old 01-26-2013, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 97FormulaWS-6
Subs never come with screws; in all my life I've never had a subwoofer that came with screws.
It is unusual but not completely unheard of, my Eclipse Titanium 15" came with screws, the JL w7's also come with mounting hardware but they have a really unusual mounting method.

Most of the time I just use the same coarse thread drywall screws that I use when building my boxes, just screw into "fresh" wood.



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