BEAST_WS6M6

Sup guys, just ordered a stealth box from Double D mods and was wondering if it would have been wise to just have ordered a pre-loaded box, and if so which one? Goal for bass is not to have it heard from a mile away but enough to enjoy the bass.

Im on a budget between $150 and $250, i already have eyes on this amp kit from ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-DB-Link-PK4Z-4-Gauge-Car-Audio-Amplifier-Installation-Kit-with-RCA-/151151434854?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Amplifier_Kits&hash=item233153dc66, now just need help on sub and amp. My car is all stock so noise is not an issue, i will be keeping the monsoon deck and speakers for now.

Any input is appreciated.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

Honestly I would start with replacing the stock HU with one that would basically eat your whole budget. To connect an aftermarket amp to a factory headunit you have to use inline converters and the sound quality is just **** poor when you do that. It doesn't matter where you end up at if you start with a crap signal you will never be happy with it, but hey thats just my 10+ years of car audio as a hobby speaking.

BEAST_WS6M6

I thought about it, i do want the best sound quality, and if i do end up switching to an aftermarket which would you recommend? would like a completely stock looking setup. Would i also want to yank the whole monsoon speaker setup and throw what in?

TA_Freak

The Monsoon head unit is fair at best. I've replaced mine with a Pioneer. If you want to wait on the head unit for now, just parallel a + / - pair on each sail panel's dual voice coil mid bass drivers. Run those to speaker level IN on your after market amp, then do a bridged mono to your sub. I went with this setup for years and was fairly happy. I crossed my low pass at around 60hz and it hit hard - so there's no issue regarding not going low enough from the Monsoon amp's output to the midbass drivers.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

My Base requirements for an aftermarket HU are Pioneer (personal preference) with 3 sets of HI-volt (with pioneer that is 4V) RCA preouts so I have a Front, Rear and Subwoofer output, Pioneers with this level of preouts also have HPF's and LPF's built-in (I believe some Kenwoods that have them even do separate HPF/LPF for the front and rear speakers which would be more desirable for these cars), beyond that Bluetooth and Aux inputs are becoming more standard features and are nice to have.

The biggest issue is there are NO 1.5 DIN radios made anymore (from any good brands) so you either have to go with a single DIN and use an adapter which doesn't look very factory, or go double DIN and either modify or buy a modified bezel.

DamonZ28

iTrader: (1)

I just installed my amp this weekend using that amp install kit. See my amp install thread for pics & notes. The power cable was BARELY long enough, and the power lead wire & RCA cables were a little short. The power lead was no big deal as I had some extra wire laying around. I had to get some extra RCA wire extensions to make everything work. I'd go with a minimum of 20 feet on the RCA wire.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

but in all fairness you ran ALL the way to the back, it probably would have been fine if you put the amp on the rear hump.

DamonZ28

iTrader: (1)

Oh yes, for that location 17' would be plenty for both power & RCA cables. I should have been more clear, or posted a link or photo to my setup.

BEAST_WS6M6

@Damon, yeah i was following your thread to give me some ideas. I will also have the Amp hidden and not on the hump so i wont advertise for someone to steal my shi!t

@Daniel Richards, im going to be ordering a bezel and will be installing a single din HU, i have always enjoyed the elaborated settings on the pioneer and kenwood HU's.

so far maybe, JL W3 (4Ohm) Sub with a Kenwood xr400.1 Amp, aftermarket HU with an illuminated bezel and that amp kit. Will be posting pics on my setup soon.