Radio wiring glitch? Loses power for a second, then turns back on.
04-01-2014, 01:34 AM
#1
Radio wiring glitch? Loses power for a second, then turns back on. It did this with the stock Monsoon radio and with my aftermarket deck I've had in my other car for years without a problem. It's not the deck!
It happens a few times a week and it has nothing to do with it getting hot because it hasn't been over 80 degrees.
I'm listening to music and it'll just shut off for a split second and immediately power back on and keep playing where it left off. WTF??? Could this be the famous BCM issue? I have no idea how to trouble shoot this issue.
It happens a few times a week and it has nothing to do with it getting hot because it hasn't been over 80 degrees.
I'm listening to music and it'll just shut off for a split second and immediately power back on and keep playing where it left off. WTF??? Could this be the famous BCM issue? I have no idea how to trouble shoot this issue.
04-01-2014, 02:21 AM
#2
My first thought is BCM man. When I bought my Camaro the radio did this and it was a good Pioneer deck. The solder point for the radio and windows on the BCM had disintegrated and were loose causing the connection to come and go. I'm having trouble getting my BCM out so I can get some soldering and wiring done on it to delete my DRLs. If you do get yours out and have any tips or want to get together and see if we can tackle it please let me know!!
04-01-2014, 05:19 AM
#5
The area that the BCM sits in is surrounded differently in a Camaro than it is in a T/A! In a Camaro you can just pull your glove compartment down and reach in and grab the BCM. In a T/A there is a wall blocking this access so you have to go through the Radio area and the BCM is slightly towards the passenger side. Then the Radio tray is in the way and my hands are too big to go from the bottom to unplug the damn thing to get it out. It's a bitch and really sucks that it's different like that from Camaro to T/A.
04-01-2014, 07:03 AM
#6
My first thought is BCM man. When I bought my Camaro the radio did this and it was a good Pioneer deck. The solder point for the radio and windows on the BCM had disintegrated and were loose causing the connection to come and go. I'm having trouble getting my BCM out so I can get some soldering and wiring done on it to delete my DRLs. If you do get yours out and have any tips or want to get together and see if we can tackle it please let me know!!
The area that the BCM sits in is surrounded differently in a Camaro than it is in a T/A! In a Camaro you can just pull your glove compartment down and reach in and grab the BCM. In a T/A there is a wall blocking this access so you have to go through the Radio area and the BCM is slightly towards the passenger side. Then the Radio tray is in the way and my hands are too big to go from the bottom to unplug the damn thing to get it out. It's a bitch and really sucks that it's different like that from Camaro to T/A.
First, you don't have to go through the radio opening to get to the BCM in a Firebird. Simply remove the glove box and the trim panel below it and you can access it from the passenger's foot well. It's still a pain in the *** but it's easier than through the radio opening.
Second, the BCM has nothing to do with either DRLs or automatic headlights so you don't have to remove it anyway (unless you're also experiencing the radio/window problem). The DRLs are controlled by the DRL module which is mounted on the defroster duct directly behind the radio - very easy to reach with the radio removed.
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04-01-2014, 03:24 PM
#8
Sorry, I'm not aware of a module mounted to the fuse box. The headlight/parking light circuit in f-bodies is very simple. There are no relays (except the fog lights) - just power going into the switch and out to the lights.
The only exception is the DRL module. In Camaros (and Canadian Firebirds) it provides an alternate power source to the headlights to turn them on automatically when the dash sensor detects that it is dark enough. It also controls the front parking/turn signal lamps to provide the DRL function by a pair of internal switching relays that swap power sources to the front lamps based on whether the turn signals are in use or the headlights are on.
The only exception is the DRL module. In Camaros (and Canadian Firebirds) it provides an alternate power source to the headlights to turn them on automatically when the dash sensor detects that it is dark enough. It also controls the front parking/turn signal lamps to provide the DRL function by a pair of internal switching relays that swap power sources to the front lamps based on whether the turn signals are in use or the headlights are on.
04-01-2014, 08:53 PM
#10
That is correct - Canadian Firebirds and all Camaros have the photosensor. US Firebirds have a simple shorting jumper wire installed so that the DRL module "sees" daylight all the time and doesn't automatically turn on the headlights. That's why the easiest way to disable automatic headlights in a Camaro is to simply short the two sensor wires together with a ScotchLock connector. Or you can add automatic headlights to a US Firebird by just plugging in a sensor (available from the dealer for under $25) - the mounting socket is right next to the alarm LED beside the defroster vent.
04-01-2014, 10:35 PM
#11
I have two bits of good news for you...
First, you don't have to go through the radio opening to get to the BCM in a Firebird. Simply remove the glove box and the trim panel below it and you can access it from the passenger's foot well. It's still a pain in the *** but it's easier than through the radio opening.
Second, the BCM has nothing to do with either DRLs or automatic headlights so you don't have to remove it anyway (unless you're also experiencing the radio/window problem). The DRLs are controlled by the DRL module which is mounted on the defroster duct directly behind the radio - very easy to reach with the radio removed.
First, you don't have to go through the radio opening to get to the BCM in a Firebird. Simply remove the glove box and the trim panel below it and you can access it from the passenger's foot well. It's still a pain in the *** but it's easier than through the radio opening.
Second, the BCM has nothing to do with either DRLs or automatic headlights so you don't have to remove it anyway (unless you're also experiencing the radio/window problem). The DRLs are controlled by the DRL module which is mounted on the defroster duct directly behind the radio - very easy to reach with the radio removed.
Secondly, I thought the DRLs were controlled by the BCM. You know how if you unplug one plug it will turn off the DRLs but the remote hatch button won't work and all of that BS. blue to blue white and etc right? It's been about 3 years since I've done it but I did this mod on my Camaro and it was on the BCM if I remember correctly. I've already done the high beam low beam together mod and I'm going to do the fog light with high beam mod too.
What I want is my turn signals to not be on all of the time when I'm driving because it just burned up my passenger side bulb socket and now I have to cut and splice in an entirely new socket. But I don't want to burn up another one from these things being on all of the time. I haven't looked at the drivers side yet but I doubt it's much better.
04-01-2014, 10:55 PM
#12
New sockets cost $7! You can buy them at any parts store. Dorman 85881. Also, LEDs run a lot cooler...
BTW, the lows always stay on when you put on the high beams. Now, the fogs are a different story. I tried finding the correct link to keep the fogs and highs on, but I didn't have any luck. Could you paste a link?
BTW, the lows always stay on when you put on the high beams. Now, the fogs are a different story. I tried finding the correct link to keep the fogs and highs on, but I didn't have any luck. Could you paste a link?
04-02-2014, 02:35 AM
#13
Yeah I know they don't cost much but I don't want to have the same problem again later on and I don't like the way the T/As look with the blinkers on all of the time with no lights on. Just a personal preference thing.
Fogs are easy. The green wire going to the Fog light relay under the hood. Cut the green wire and attach extra wire to the relay side so you'll have enough length and ground it. On the RELAY side.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...og-lights.html
Fogs are easy. The green wire going to the Fog light relay under the hood. Cut the green wire and attach extra wire to the relay side so you'll have enough length and ground it. On the RELAY side.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...og-lights.html
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 04-02-2014 at 07:00 AM. Reason: Merge consecutive posts
04-02-2014, 07:10 AM
#14
Secondly, I thought the DRLs were controlled by the BCM. You know how if you unplug one plug it will turn off the DRLs but the remote hatch button won't work and all of that BS. blue to blue white and etc right? It's been about 3 years since I've done it but I did this mod on my Camaro and it was on the BCM if I remember correctly. I've already done the high beam low beam together mod and I'm going to do the fog light with high beam mod too.
HotWhipT/A is correct - there is no low beams with high beams mod for Firebirds because that's the way they come from the factory. That mod applies only to Camaros.
04-02-2014, 07:33 AM
#15
You have the right description (wire colors and hatch issue) just the wrong module. The two plugs are in the DRL module behind the radio. Complete description in this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ic-lights.html
HotWhipT/A is correct - there is no low beams with high beams mod for Firebirds because that's the way they come from the factory. That mod applies only to Camaros.
HotWhipT/A is correct - there is no low beams with high beams mod for Firebirds because that's the way they come from the factory. That mod applies only to Camaros.
And again thank you for clearing that up for me on the DRL mod. I just looked at the link in the thread you linked above, http://xse.com/leres/ss/drl.html , and I was thinking that the box shown in that link as the DRL module was the BCM. So I am looking at the correct module already and am having a horrible time attempting to get it out, I was just thinking that it was the BCM. Do you have any tips of getting this module out on a T/A? The problem I'm having is that it's positioned much lower than the radio tray and my hands can't contort to a position to get the plugs out to get the box out. And secondly when I plug on the wiring it doesn't feel like it has any slack and I'm afraid of pulling something apart.
04-02-2014, 09:02 AM
#16
The easiest way to get down farther behind the radio is to remove the bolts holding the HVAC controls in place and (gently) pull the control panel away from the dash. You shouldn't have to pull it far to get enough room to get behind it. If you do need to pull it farther, try to disconnect only the electrical connections first followed by the vacuum connections and the temperature cable only as a last resort. The electrical connections are easy to restore and the vacuum is not too bad as long as it doesn't get damaged but the temp cable is a royal pain.
04-02-2014, 11:23 PM
#18
Lots of good info going on in this little thread.
I never thought about deleting the DRLs because I didn't know you could so I just learned to live with them. If I like yours, I'll probably do mine as well.
I'd have to meet with you on a Sunday. I've been busy lately. I have everything we would possibly need in my garage. My hands are bigger than yours I'm sure so if you're having a hard time, I might have trouble too. LOL
I never thought about deleting the DRLs because I didn't know you could so I just learned to live with them. If I like yours, I'll probably do mine as well.
I'd have to meet with you on a Sunday. I've been busy lately. I have everything we would possibly need in my garage. My hands are bigger than yours I'm sure so if you're having a hard time, I might have trouble too. LOL