'99 TA Drivers Brake Light not Working but Blinkers/Flashers/Running Lights do?
02-16-2015, 03:29 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'99 TA Drivers Brake Light not Working but Blinkers/Flashers/Running Lights do? I just purchased a 1999 Trans Am last month and have a few small issues to fix so I will probably have many more questions to come but this one is bothering me the most as it is currently prohibiting me from being able to legally drive the car. All my running lights, turn signals and flashers are working fine but when I hit the brakes only the (2) passenger side bulbs come on while the (2) bulbs on the drivers side don't. I swapped both bulbs from the drivers side with both bulbs from the passenger side and still have the same issue. I tried replacing the brake light switch just for the hell of it (which I didn't think was the issue anyways as both brake lights probably wouldn't work if it was) and still had the same issue. While driving home behind me for about an hour after buying it the girlfriend says it did work a couple times but only briefly (like a second or two) then cuts back off. My father is pretty good with wiring and he came by today from out of town with a continuity tester and light tester and we traced the yellow wire all the way from the back tail light to where it runs up under the dash and all seems to be fine with no broken connections, moisture or noticeable corrosion. We didn't have time to go any further into the dash and he had to leave. He's moving out of state and we probably won't be getting together on the car again any time soon and I don't really have the money to shell out for a shop to do it so I would like to try to fix this myself if possible. He didn't think that it would be the light sockets either as they are still both getting power for everything except the brake lights. Has anyone had a similar issue or any idea what it could possibly be? Any ideas are greatly appreciated! Thanks for taking the time to read my long novel of a first post but this is really bugging the crap out of me. Please help me get this bird on the road!
Could it be my turn signal switch?
Could it be my turn signal switch?
Last edited by 1999ls1ta; 02-16-2015 at 08:53 PM.
02-17-2015, 07:18 AM
#2
A couple of points...
It was/is unnecessary to trace the yellow wire back to the dash. The yellow wire carries power for both the brake lights and the turn signals on the left side. Since the left side turn signals work, we know that the yellow wire is intact.
Similarly, we know the brake light switch and wiring up to the turn signal switch are intact because both sides share the same wiring to that point and the right side brake lights work.
I suspect your guess that it might be the turn signal switch is correct. It's easy to test:
- remove the bulb from a socket on the left side
- inside the socket you will see a disk with two metal contacts. One of those contacts is for the tail light power and the other is for the brakes and turn signal power.
- turn on the parking lights and use your tester to determine which contact is for the tail lights. BE CAREFUL not to allow the probe to touch the metal barrel of the socket at the same time as either of the contacts or you will blow a fuse. In fact, it wouldn't hurt to wrap the probe in electrical tape so that only the tip is exposed.
- now that you know which contact is which, test the brake/turn signal contact for power when your assistant (?) applies the brakes. Repeat the test with the turn signals on just to confirm that everything works up to that point.
Assuming that you see power when the turn signals are on but not when the brakes are applied, you can deduce that the turn signal switch is the source of the problem (because we've already eliminated other causes).
NOTE: For others reading this, it applies only to Firebirds and earlier Camaros that use the same bulbs for brake and turn signals. 98-02 Camaros have separate amber turn signals so the brake light power does not route through the turn signal switch.
It was/is unnecessary to trace the yellow wire back to the dash. The yellow wire carries power for both the brake lights and the turn signals on the left side. Since the left side turn signals work, we know that the yellow wire is intact.
Similarly, we know the brake light switch and wiring up to the turn signal switch are intact because both sides share the same wiring to that point and the right side brake lights work.
I suspect your guess that it might be the turn signal switch is correct. It's easy to test:
- remove the bulb from a socket on the left side
- inside the socket you will see a disk with two metal contacts. One of those contacts is for the tail light power and the other is for the brakes and turn signal power.
- turn on the parking lights and use your tester to determine which contact is for the tail lights. BE CAREFUL not to allow the probe to touch the metal barrel of the socket at the same time as either of the contacts or you will blow a fuse. In fact, it wouldn't hurt to wrap the probe in electrical tape so that only the tip is exposed.
- now that you know which contact is which, test the brake/turn signal contact for power when your assistant (?) applies the brakes. Repeat the test with the turn signals on just to confirm that everything works up to that point.
Assuming that you see power when the turn signals are on but not when the brakes are applied, you can deduce that the turn signal switch is the source of the problem (because we've already eliminated other causes).
NOTE: For others reading this, it applies only to Firebirds and earlier Camaros that use the same bulbs for brake and turn signals. 98-02 Camaros have separate amber turn signals so the brake light power does not route through the turn signal switch.
02-17-2015, 09:01 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you very much for all the info white bird! We did that when my dad was here and there was power for the turn signals but none when the brakes were pressed. We just weren't even thinking of a turn signal switch at the time until I did some research online and found other people having similar issued that say it was their turn signal switch. I would have never thought the two were relevant to one another until now so I guess that's what I will be doing this weekend. I will be sure to let you know what happens after it's replaced. Thanks again!
02-17-2015, 10:16 AM
#4
The brakes go through the switch because they share the same filament with the turn signals. Here is a schematic that may help. It's for an older car, but I recall that its the same as the later model Firebird: http://shbox.com/1/exterior_lights.htm
02-17-2015, 10:36 AM
#5
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Central,NJ
Posts: 563
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A couple of points...
It was/is unnecessary to trace the yellow wire back to the dash. The yellow wire carries power for both the brake lights and the turn signals on the left side. Since the left side turn signals work, we know that the yellow wire is intact.
Similarly, we know the brake light switch and wiring up to the turn signal switch are intact because both sides share the same wiring to that point and the right side brake lights work.
I suspect your guess that it might be the turn signal switch is correct. It's easy to test:
- remove the bulb from a socket on the left side
- inside the socket you will see a disk with two metal contacts. One of those contacts is for the tail light power and the other is for the brakes and turn signal power.
- turn on the parking lights and use your tester to determine which contact is for the tail lights. BE CAREFUL not to allow the probe to touch the metal barrel of the socket at the same time as either of the contacts or you will blow a fuse. In fact, it wouldn't hurt to wrap the probe in electrical tape so that only the tip is exposed.
- now that you know which contact is which, test the brake/turn signal contact for power when your assistant (?) applies the brakes. Repeat the test with the turn signals on just to confirm that everything works up to that point.
Assuming that you see power when the turn signals are on but not when the brakes are applied, you can deduce that the turn signal switch is the source of the problem (because we've already eliminated other causes).
NOTE: For others reading this, it applies only to Firebirds and earlier Camaros that use the same bulbs for brake and turn signals. 98-02 Camaros have separate amber turn signals so the brake light power does not route through the turn signal switch.
It was/is unnecessary to trace the yellow wire back to the dash. The yellow wire carries power for both the brake lights and the turn signals on the left side. Since the left side turn signals work, we know that the yellow wire is intact.
Similarly, we know the brake light switch and wiring up to the turn signal switch are intact because both sides share the same wiring to that point and the right side brake lights work.
I suspect your guess that it might be the turn signal switch is correct. It's easy to test:
- remove the bulb from a socket on the left side
- inside the socket you will see a disk with two metal contacts. One of those contacts is for the tail light power and the other is for the brakes and turn signal power.
- turn on the parking lights and use your tester to determine which contact is for the tail lights. BE CAREFUL not to allow the probe to touch the metal barrel of the socket at the same time as either of the contacts or you will blow a fuse. In fact, it wouldn't hurt to wrap the probe in electrical tape so that only the tip is exposed.
- now that you know which contact is which, test the brake/turn signal contact for power when your assistant (?) applies the brakes. Repeat the test with the turn signals on just to confirm that everything works up to that point.
Assuming that you see power when the turn signals are on but not when the brakes are applied, you can deduce that the turn signal switch is the source of the problem (because we've already eliminated other causes).
NOTE: For others reading this, it applies only to Firebirds and earlier Camaros that use the same bulbs for brake and turn signals. 98-02 Camaros have separate amber turn signals so the brake light power does not route through the turn signal switch.
02-18-2015, 07:46 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Replacing the turn signal switch and this fell from the steering column Does anyone know what this plastic oval piece is? I'm not sure so I'm scared to start putting everything back together...
Trending Topics
02-19-2015, 10:59 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've also came across two older posts on this site (in the same thread) where two other people had the same part fall from their steering column but nobody knew what it was. I just went ahead and put everything back together today and it solved my brake light issue but there are a few things that don't seem the same as before.
1. My tilt wheel doesn't seem to work right. Before I switched out the turn signal switch it had a lot more "spring" to it when I hit the lever. It just seems much weaker and now I have to push it a little to help it lift up.
2. My key seems to be harder to insert and remove from the ignition.
3. My flasher button is really hard to push but still works.
4. Maybe I'm going crazy on this one but the dinging sound that comes on when you open the door with the key in the ignition sounds funny.
I'm planning on taking it all back apart to see if I can figure anything out. Anybody have a similar experience or any ideas? I'm really starting to wish I just paid a shop to do this.
1. My tilt wheel doesn't seem to work right. Before I switched out the turn signal switch it had a lot more "spring" to it when I hit the lever. It just seems much weaker and now I have to push it a little to help it lift up.
2. My key seems to be harder to insert and remove from the ignition.
3. My flasher button is really hard to push but still works.
4. Maybe I'm going crazy on this one but the dinging sound that comes on when you open the door with the key in the ignition sounds funny.
I'm planning on taking it all back apart to see if I can figure anything out. Anybody have a similar experience or any ideas? I'm really starting to wish I just paid a shop to do this.
02-20-2015, 06:08 PM
#9
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Central,NJ
Posts: 563
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Those pieces sit in the column mounts. Not necessary to have them in place. It acts as an alignment collar during factory assembly.
For issues 1,2 and 3, check to make sure the slip fitting (intermediate shaft) is not pushing or pulling with any significant force on the column shaft.
Issue 4, most likely... coincidence.
For issues 1,2 and 3, check to make sure the slip fitting (intermediate shaft) is not pushing or pulling with any significant force on the column shaft.
Issue 4, most likely... coincidence.
Last edited by Kevin97ss; 02-20-2015 at 06:19 PM.