Wiring, Stereo & Electronics Audio Components | Radars | Alarms - and things that spark when they shouldn't

Dead passengar side DRL

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-17-2015, 11:23 PM
  #1  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
M4N14C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 1,233
Received 16 Likes on 11 Posts

Default Dead passengar side DRL

So the other day my right side DRL went out. No problem, just replace the bulb right? So I did that and it's still dead (parking lights work, just the brighter DRL light/turn signal doesn't). So I got a new flasher. Still dead. Tore out my head unit to get to the DRL module and bypassed it altogether, never liked them on anyway (connected the turn signal inputs directly to the turn signal outputs). Again, driver side works fine, passenger side dead.

Pulled out the voltmeter and checked the sockets. With car on, handbrake off driver side was getting 12V (this was before disabling DRL module), passenger side was getting .3V. No bueno. Thinking it was the socket I pulled the wire out and still just got .5V. At this point the only thing left to conclude is that it's a chaffed wire somewhere or bad ground, right?

I've basically done everything else you can do to troubleshoot DRL problems
Old 03-18-2015, 05:59 AM
  #2  
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
 
wssix99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 12,663
Received 322 Likes on 295 Posts

Default

I'd make sure you are testing the socket wire with multiple ground options first and then check the voltage at the DRL module. It's not unheard of for the module to go bad.
Old 03-18-2015, 09:57 AM
  #3  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
M4N14C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 1,233
Received 16 Likes on 11 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by wssix99
I'd make sure you are testing the socket wire with multiple ground options first and then check the voltage at the DRL module. It's not unheard of for the module to go bad.
Well I'm getting 11.8V on the drivers side grounding to the frame but .3V on passenger. Also I bypassed the DRL module altogether so even if it's bad I should still be getting power
Old 03-18-2015, 10:32 AM
  #4  
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
 
wssix99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 12,663
Received 322 Likes on 295 Posts

Default

How did you do the bypass?
Old 03-18-2015, 04:41 PM
  #5  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
M4N14C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 1,233
Received 16 Likes on 11 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by wssix99
How did you do the bypass?
WhiteBird's write up
Old 03-18-2015, 05:51 PM
  #6  
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
 
wssix99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 12,663
Received 322 Likes on 295 Posts

Default

Can you test the wires where you made that bypass? That should confirm definitively if there is a cut in the wire.
Old 03-18-2015, 11:22 PM
  #7  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
M4N14C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 1,233
Received 16 Likes on 11 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by wssix99
Can you test the wires where you made that bypass? That should confirm definitively if there is a cut in the wire.
I just tested that now and yes, I am getting the same voltage from both left and right turn signals, so there must be a break from where I crimped the wire to the actual DRL socket. Will start tracing wires tomorrow...
Old 03-19-2015, 08:46 PM
  #8  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
M4N14C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 1,233
Received 16 Likes on 11 Posts

Default

So apparently the problem was a burnt out socket. Pulled out the connector and it was all corroded which explains why when I measured it I wasn't getting any voltage. Got a new socket from autozone for $8, wired it up and everything is working perfectly now



Quick Reply: Dead passengar side DRL



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:38 AM.