Nkamer12

Hello members,
so I just bought a 2001 camaro about a week ago,
it's a 3800 5speed coupe with power options.
runs amazing.
I had a 94 firebird I bought for a grand about 5 or 6 years ago, I kept it for a year, clean body but everything else was wore out, beat up or missing.
I found this gem with near perfect body , interior (black) and clean engine, And better gas milage than my f150 lol. So I posted a thread about the seats, my second concern is the speaker. Keep in mind I like the look of the interior and want to keep it looking like it's factory, not punk high school ricer.
I know this has been covered b4 but the threads are half as old as my car, and with technology and branding becoming outdated as quick as a year old cell phone I thought I could ask for a Lil more clarification on a few spots. Please correct me if I miss understand any of this.

so door speakers and sail panels are 6.75's
the sails are bass speakers
the doors are component speakers
and the hatch are 4inch or something like that with the option for separate tweeters.

so before I get into the component speaker questions is like to clear up some thoughts on the sail panels.
so their 6.75 and should be 4 ohms each. Since their supposed to be for bass should I go specifically for 6.75 subs, will the factory amp be strong enough to have a clear bass, not looking for sub box sound, just clarity while cruising. And any suggestions on brands or other specs to look for

next is the hatch, I'm just wondering how to hook up tweeters and is it worth the effort to put the tweeters in the hatch. I know it has the hole but where do I find the leads, also any brand and spec info would be appreciated.

next are the door speakers.
so co.ponent speakers with built in tweeters,
their should be two sets of hot/return in the doors, one for tweeters and one for the bass speaker behind it¿ so I'm guessing I need to look for component speakers with tweeters built in and their will be two hookups on the speaker. I looked for component speakers on amazom, looked like I found em with out tweeters built in. so any info that would help clarify what type of speakers are compatible, where I can find em for a decent price. Also when looking on amazon for 6.75 speakers in general it says also commonly bought with speaker harness. So can I just put the tweeters and bass in a basic speaker. Read in an old post that if ur not gonna get a built in tweeters ur better off leaving the tweeters wires unused.

then a last query, if been looking at putting an aux jack in my mustang eater, but like I said,I wanna keep the radio factory, monsoon.
so I've researched and understand the concept of splicing into the cd player with a switch jack, witch I'm seriously considering doing soon. But I prefer bluetooth and don't want a aux jack bluetooth plug In that's gonna be laying around with Cords everywhere and have to turn it on and charge it everytime I wanna use it.
I've seen some adapters that plugs into the wiring harness, I'm not very familiar with the harness adapters, can I get a harness with Bluetooth or are they just aux inputs. I don't have the cd changer.

thanks for the help. A lot of the research I've done on camaros have lead me to ls1 tech. So I'm pretty much a long time listener , first time caller lol.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

So, to clarify some points first...
- the door and hatch speakers are actually 6.5S which is an oversized 6.5. 6.75 will fit but you don't have to limit your search because 6.5 will fit as well.
- there is no option for tweeters in the hatch area of Camaros. Firebirds come with 4" mids and separate tweeters there but Camaros just have 4" full range (no tweeters).
- the sail panel subs in Camaros are 2-ohm SVC. You can put 4-ohm replacements in there but you may lose some power depending on the relative efficiency (sensitivity) of the replacements.

The information you'll find here (especially in the Monsoon FAQ sticky) is still current because the cars themselves haven't been made for 15 years. Most of the aftermarket parts are also still available - things like wiring harness adapters, bezels, and the popular models of speakers. Specifically, the very popular Bazooka subs for the sail panels are still readily available as are the CDT "convertible" components for the doors (convertible because the tweeter can be mounted separately or in the middle of the speaker like a coaxial). JL Audio also makes a convertible speaker in that size.

You can't add Bluetooth directly to the factory head unit but you can add an auxiliary input adapter and then any one of the dozens of Bluetooth modules that plug into auxiliary ports. The very popular PIE GM9-AUX adapter is very hard to find these days but the equivalent PAC AAI-GM9 can be had for about $32 on Amazon - maybe even cheaper some places.

tophatjimmy

iTrader: (1)

Does the car come with the CD changer in the hatch? If so I'll make you a smokin deal on a GM9 AUX adapter.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The CD Changer is not required. The head unit must support an external CD changer, regardless of whether one is actually installed or not. All 00-02 F-body Monsoon systems support the changer and come pre-wired for it.

tophatjimmy

iTrader: (1)

My AAI-GM9 requires the changer. There are other models that don't. I bought the wrong one, hence the smokin deal.

jlangley

iTrader: (8)

How much do you want for it? Shipped to 98295.

Nkamer12

I checked this morning and no changer.
I did buy 2 6.5 mid bass 4oms for the sails
6.5 coaux for the doors
And 4s for the hatch.
I know it's not rated value but it's gotta be better than blown factory paper.
With the 6.5s will I need spacers or will it be small enough to neglect the quarter of an inch diffrence.

Next I'm starting to think about replacing the amp,
Can I replace the factory amp with an after market by just the wires or will their be some type of compatibility issues either from the wire setup, built in cross overs or etc, or can I just remove factory and put in mine.
I have a class D mono block that's been with me for a few cars,
I also keep thinking about my subs,
I have some 15 kickers that have been with me for a few cars as well, would it be possible to buy a 2 12inch sub box for my hatch and just fab an extra 3inches outta of it or would space be to limited.
Would it be possible to keep the radio and upgrade the rest. I'm willing to sacrifice the factory look for the subs, I do miss my overkill bass, but wanna keep the dash original.
I feel like I'm going to end up over powering the HU, releasing the smoke and have to put in an aftermarket radio in ne ways down the road, witch I'd kinda like to prevent.
I've built the last sub box my self and carried it along with me from car to car slowly replacing piece by piece, wires, radio, speakers capaciter etc, but I am a college kid, working a full time job while still trying to keep a social life and do home work so my time is about as limited as my money and don't really have the time to build and carpet another box, that's why I was thinking of slight mod to a 12 inch box to fit 15s.
Another hundo (slightly less) for the box and the rest I already have. Will it integrade
That Gm9 peaked my interest, so is that just plug and play between the harness and radio with a aux jack, I did a quick Google search, found more for sale listings than install and feature information. Any additional info u have on that would be appreciated. I'm an engineer major so I have relative info and prior experience with most of these concepts, but knowledge from the knowledgeable leads to learning from others mistakes before you have to learn from yours. The harness set up seams simpler than splicing between the CD player and Board....

I feel my lust for excess is going to be the demise of my semi factory radio wish.

Any info is always appreciated,
you can release the smoke, but never put it back in :/

Nkamer12

Also,
I was looking up after market radio in the camaro/birds and read something that threw me off a bit.
A guy said something about the size of the aftermarket radio being large and protruding out the front .
I wanna say it sounds like an old car, older dim install set up. Their were also a few places I seen that people said you needed to cut out the back behind where the radio mounts to fit In an aftermarket.
Like I said, not my wish, but when worst does come to worst I'd like to know what I'll be getting into b4 I'm forced to put in my Amarket. And if I do do an Amarket how difficult is it to keep my wheel controls, that's like 10% of why I like my factory.
Is it just a wire or two already on the harness or is their some adapters or what not needed.

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

I wish I had saw this thread earlier. I was going to HIGHLY recommend Kee Audio to ya, he's a vendor here on LS1tech and he has speakers that are pretty much plug and play, factory impedance as well and AMAZING quality and durability and will surpass most of what is on the aftermarket short of getting subs and his prices are very reasonable.

morphrider

X2 on Kee audio. I replaced my fronts with some cartoys components which sound great, then found Kee on line and replaced the sail panels. Still need to get the hatch speakers, but for now it sounds tons better. Aftermarket deck and recessed subs in trunk where cd changer was is next.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Coax in the doors will work as long as you use the correct wire pair. The pair for the door mids carries full range signal. The pair for factory tweeters is high pass filtered by the Monsoon amp and carries only high frequency signal so your coaxial speakers would sound terrible. You are giving up an entire channel in each door so there will be some loss of output. You may be able to modify the coaxial speakers to work like components depending on how they're designed. If you can get at the small wires that go from the speaker terminals to the tweeter, you can cut them and attach them to the factory tweeter wiring.

No, generally this will not work. The Monsoon amp uses speaker level input and signal sensing. The vast majority of aftermarket amps use pre-amp (line level) input and have a separate remote turn on wire. You can find aftermarket amps that have speaker level input and you may be able to find an amp that has signal sensing turn on but I've never seen one that has both. Besides, the Monsoon amp is the best part of the system. The factory head unit is a distortion making machine and the speakers are cheap (as you seen). The amp may not be the most powerful in the world but it produces clean output into eight channels when given a clean signal. If you want to install a good aftermarket amp then do it right and rewire properly for RCA input rather than trying to use the factory wiring. And seriously consider a good head unit.

I'm not quite sure how you think that might happen. The head unit is the source so it's not something you could overpower. Besides, it starts distorting so badly at relatively low volume that you would never want to turn it up too far anyway.

The GM9-AUX adapter simply plugs into the CD changer port on the back of the factory head unit in place of the original changer harness. It has RCA input jacks that you can connect to any auxiliary input - an MP3 player, phone, Bluetooth adapter or whatever.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Please read the Monsoon FAQ at the top of the section. It covers most of what you have been asking.

Some models of aftermarket single DIN head units can protrude from the dash depending on their depth and the installation kit used. Nobody makes a 1.5 DIN head unit anymore although you can still find some of the older Pioneer or Alpine ones on sites like ebay. Double DIN has become very popular in 4th generation f-bodies because they have additional capabilities and don't stand out so much as being obviously aftermarket. But you have to factor in the cost of a replacement trim bezel (or modifying it yourself).

There is a rear mounting tab for the factory head unit which will often have to be removed for an aftermarket unit but its only purpose is to support the back of the factory unit so its removal is no problem. If you prefer, it can be bent out of the way rather than removed.

You can retain steering wheel controls but only with an adapter.

A_W_O_L

iTrader: (2)

JL Audio's XD series amps do both (speaker level and signal sensing), just FYI.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Thanks. That's good to know.

However, that still wouldn't be a direct replacement for a Monsoon amp since the Monsoon is 8-channel and its signal filtering is somewhat unique.

A_W_O_L

iTrader: (2)

I think with the built in crossover it should filter sound to the speakers at the correct cuttoff points ( if you set them up properly ) or am I misunderstanding you? I haven't installed it (and when installed it won't be with the factory head unit) but I have the XD800/8v2 which will drive all 8 channels to what will be (for now) the factory speakers... FWIW.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

I was not aware of the capabilities of that amp. It's very impressive and would come close to duplicating a Monsoon configuration if carefully set up. But it's still not a "direct replacement" as Nkamer12 was asking.

In his Camaro, you'd still have to give up one channel for each door. The doors come with mids and tweeters running off separate channels even though they are mounted coaxially. The JL amp takes 4-channel input and outputs each to pairs of channels. It also has selectable signal filtering for those output pairs. But you want each of the two front inputs to go to two front outputs with different filtering. For example, you could have left and right input on channels 1 and 2 which would output on channels 1 & 3 and 2 & 4 respectively. But the output pairs can have only one filter setting so if you set a high pass filter you lose the full range signal to the door mid or if you leave filtering off you send unfiltered signal to the door tweeter. So you would have to use a single channel to each door and then a crossover to handle the filtering. This requires rewiring and the loss of a channel to each door.

In a Firebird, you don't have the door problem because the tweeters are wired from the head unit and don't go through the amp (same with the Firebird hatch area). But you have a problem with the sail panels because they come with dual voice coil subs - two channels to each side. You need six channels of rear output to handle the DVC subs and the hatch area mids but you only have four available. So you drop one channel from each sail panel but you still have the problem of filtering because the hatch speakers are full range but the subs need a low pass filter.

I'm not saying that the JL amp isn't a brilliant option for a Monsoon replacement just that even it won't work as the drop-in replacement for the original amp that Nkamer12 was trying to find. But with careful selection of replacement speakers (e.g. SVC subs and external crossovers) and a little rewiring, it would do a very nice job.

A_W_O_L

iTrader: (2)

Agreed... but what would be wrong with running a set if RCA Y's (or splitting for the high-level inputs from a factory headunit) for the front left and front right channels. "Pairing" the Mid bass speakers on channnels 1 and 2 of the amp (so you can use the common filter at the same cutoff point) and pairing the tweeters on channels 3 and 4 (again using the common cuttoff point)? You can make up the "loss" of a splitter using input gain sensitivity. As far as the sail panels, run them on the sub channel of the aftermarket headunit (or pick a set of channels [font or rear... I'd split the rear since the front are split alread] again can adjust for "loss" with input gain adjustment on the amp) you can wire them in so that both voice coils in each speaker are used, the amp is 2 ohm stable (and honestly with factory speakers even 1 ohm wouldn't matter to the amp no more than those 2 speakers can handle). The rear hatch speakers are full range so no issue there.

KingJacobo

Not sure if you bought speakers already, but I have rear subs from Kee Audio (the mid end ones) brand new in box if you'd like to buy them for almost half what they cost new.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Doing that would cause the loss of right/left separation.