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Thinking of putting in an auxiliary fuse box to run my gauges (fuel pressure, boost, wideband), shift light, and boost controller. Really looking for a sanity check and to keep all the additional wiring clean and easy to maintain.
Looking at an 80amp battery isolator relay off the battery (with fuse/circuit breaker) and run into the cab where the 6 circuit fuse box will be located. I will run all the accessory wires to the fuse box, and the isolator relay will be triggered by one single key/ignition on wire under the hood via the isolator relay.
Parts:
Stinger SGP38 80-AMP Battery Isolator and Relay (or similar)
Yescom 80A Circuit Breaker 12-42V DC Manual Reset Auto Car Audio Inline Replace Fuse (or similar)
Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover
Really looking for some input, or to know if there is a better way without using fuse taps on the factory wiring.
Do you really need that much amperage? There are extra ports in the dash fuse panel put there by GM specifically for adding electrical accessories. There is one each for battery (constant) power, ignition switched power, and accessory (retained accessory power like the windows and stereo). They are 15 amp circuits which should be plenty for what you want to do. I ran a heavy gauge wire from each of those ports to small accessory fuse panels I mounted behind the center console (you can get them from any auto parts store) so that I would have a convenient location to add electrical accessories whenever I needed.
I don't NEED that much in reality, the wideband alone requires a 10a circuit, I think the shift light is 5amp (maybe less, can't remember off hand) so I know I'm already close to the limit of that stock wiring. I should probably check the requirements for the other guages/boost controller, but I'm trying to avoid using the stock wiring since I know it's only 15a rated. I figured I could simplify my accessory Wiring, I also plan to run the alky pump off the same circuitry so all the added electronics (except dual fuel pump and fan wiring) are in one place for the most part.
An AutoMeter wideband only needs a 3-amp fuse and the DLG version only needs 5-amp... 10 amps seems like a lot for a gauge.
Remember, fuses don't protect devices - they protect the wiring going to the devices. The idea is to have the fuse blow in case of a short or over-current condition before the wiring can heat up and cause a fire. So you size the fuse based on the gauge and length of wire it's protecting.
03-19-2018, 10:08 AM
Aux switched fuse box help 
