badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

w/ the pac4 connected correctly the steering wheel controls will function is this true or false?I forgot

Here’s the clarion I would like to try to install. The claieron has RCA plugs for front/rear speakers so doe’s the PAC4.



Here’s the wires I plan to connect from the clarion

Yellow w/ fuse they say to connect directly to the battery think I prefer joining it w/ the switched 12VDC and then connect the others circled in green.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

No, do not connect the yellow wire to ignition switched source unless you want to lose your clock and station memories every time you shut off the ignition. The instructions are badly worded - the yellow wire should be connected to a constant (battery) source but not directly to the battery. This is handled by the wiring harness adapter which connects the yellow wire from the head unit to the orange wire of the factory wiring harness.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

I am going to finalley get the blaupnt out and confirm how I have it connected either it's incorrect or this radio indeed is defective. I'm leaning defective. others have chimed in and said bad ground we all know that can cause all kindof problems.

so will the steering wheel function as controls w/ the pac4 or is there another device required? thanks on the yellow wire of the clairion.

I must of had a brain fart the last decent sys. I installed was in my TA around2004 so it's been a while.just reread #24 will report back.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The PAC RP4 may or may not work - not because of the vehicle but because of the Clarion head unit. Since you already have it, there's no reason not to try it. If it doesn't work, you'll want the PAC SWI-JACK (JACK stands for JVC, Alpine, Clarion, and Kenwood).

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

update: finalley got around to addressing the blaupuck I have the fronts and kindof sounds like the rears are producing sound most importantly the buzz has been minimized but is still a slite buzz noise.

I really screwed the pooch on this one, anyway the problem was my el cheapo chinese backup camera it was actuelly sucking 15amps while the car was turned of this 15amp was reduced to 3amp still way to much and the battery drain issues is resolved starting to like the new car again (so far).

yes I finalley got around to getting a new battery then retesting the parasictic draw w/ the proper testing procedures. I never thought the camera was sucking amps because the monitior wasn't plugged in.

the radio seams listenable haven't retested the NAV yet. scared to because it's warnings every 5 seconds you are speeding even w/ NAV turned off hopefully I can figure that out to.
very dissapointed the steering wheel controls are none functional maybe there is a solution for this too?

thanks WB you the man & all others for advicing.