Driver's side power window died and is stuck down, quick solution?
#1
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Driver's side power window died and is stuck down, quick solution?
The window was working perfectly, it was powerful and never gave me any kind of issues. This afternoon I had my window almost all the way down, then when I tried closing it, completely dead...no sound, nothing. I came back about an hour later and it moved up literally an inch, then it suddenly cut out again. I try again a couple hours later and it moved maybe a 1/4 inch, so this is getting me nowhere. The passenger window still works the same as it always had. I've seen multiple threads about this and I'm going to try a new switch and then the motor if that doesn't work. My question is, is there any possible way I can get this damn window to go up in the meantime? I don't have time to be taking the damn thing apart over the next several days and I don't want to keep it parked in public with the window open while I'm at work. I don't care if it doesn't open again right now, I just need it closed for security and convenience purposes. I even tried hitting the door while holding the button and it did absolutely nothing. Is there any possible way to manually close this window?
#2
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If you really suspect the window switch (it's doubtful that the switch is the cause), you can bypass it by simply pulling it out of the door panel and applying power to the dark blue wire (you have to remove the dark blue wire from the switch connection or it will short to ground). That will make the window go up if the motor is okay and the regulator isn't binding. Since the motor is the most likely source of the problem, there's not much point in trying to work around that. You could get in there and disconnect the motor from the regulator in order to manually raise the window but at that point you might as well just replace the motor - it's about the same amount of work.
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If you really suspect the window switch (it's doubtful that the switch is the cause), you can bypass it by simply pulling it out of the door panel and applying power to the dark blue wire (you have to remove the dark blue wire from the switch connection or it will short to ground). That will make the window go up if the motor is okay and the regulator isn't binding. Since the motor is the most likely source of the problem, there's not much point in trying to work around that. You could get in there and disconnect the motor from the regulator in order to manually raise the window but at that point you might as well just replace the motor - it's about the same amount of work.
#4
you've probably already gotten your window closed, but when I had similar symptoms I got it to close by pulling up on the window with one hand while pressing the button to close the window with the door open. This relives the stress on the window motor, preventing the thermal shutdown circuitry inside the motor from triggering. That's usually a telling sign the motor is shot (moving up an inch and stopping for a while until it cools down enough to move up another inch).
good luck, lots of good articles and how-to's for window motor replacement out there. I ultimately used this oldie for a guide http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html but used a new doorman window motor (updated design that supposedly fixes the overheated thermal switch issue in the OEM design). Mine's been working great since replacing 5 or 6 years ago (driver side) .
good luck, lots of good articles and how-to's for window motor replacement out there. I ultimately used this oldie for a guide http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html but used a new doorman window motor (updated design that supposedly fixes the overheated thermal switch issue in the OEM design). Mine's been working great since replacing 5 or 6 years ago (driver side) .
#5
you've probably already gotten your window closed, but when I had similar symptoms I got it to close by pulling up on the window with one hand while pressing the button to close the window with the door open. This relives the stress on the window motor, preventing the thermal shutdown circuitry inside the motor from triggering. That's usually a telling sign the motor is shot (moving up an inch and stopping for a while until it cools down enough to move up another inch).
#6
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you've probably already gotten your window closed, but when I had similar symptoms I got it to close by pulling up on the window with one hand while pressing the button to close the window with the door open. This relives the stress on the window motor, preventing the thermal shutdown circuitry inside the motor from triggering. That's usually a telling sign the motor is shot (moving up an inch and stopping for a while until it cools down enough to move up another inch).
good luck, lots of good articles and how-to's for window motor replacement out there. I ultimately used this oldie for a guide http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html but used a new doorman window motor (updated design that supposedly fixes the overheated thermal switch issue in the OEM design). Mine's been working great since replacing 5 or 6 years ago (driver side) .
good luck, lots of good articles and how-to's for window motor replacement out there. I ultimately used this oldie for a guide http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html but used a new doorman window motor (updated design that supposedly fixes the overheated thermal switch issue in the OEM design). Mine's been working great since replacing 5 or 6 years ago (driver side) .
#7
Yes, I was able to get it done on Saturday late at night. I did try that method, but unfortunately it didn't work for me. The motor was actually completely dead, it wouldn't even work when I removed it from the car. I never heard of one dying so abruptly like that before. I just hope this new motor lasts a very long time. Too bad Doorman stopped making the improved window motor, I had to buy the same flawed design again.
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#8
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I am sorry the tug method didn't work for you. My motor was still working but it needed the assist until I replaced it. Even though you may not be happy with the new replacement, as long as your window works like it should, what more can you ask for? I hope your motor lasts a long time too, however, I notice now that replacement parts seem to be designed with an intentional expiration. These original equipment remanufacturing companies are out to ensure they are making a profit to stay in business as well. In the grand scheme of things, it is always cheaper than buying a new car and honestly, what new car would give you the satisfaction that your f-body currently gives you? For me, the new Zeta body Camaro will never hold a candle to my curvy Trans Am with her F-body, the design inspired by the female body in the mid-1980s and perhaps a body shape that will be the closest in style to what the Corvette body shape is, sleek and sexy!