Speakers for -99 Z28
01-16-2019, 10:09 AM
#1
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Speakers for -99 Z28 Hello!
What speakers can i use as replacement for the stock ones?
i am thinking 6,5" coaxials in the doors and sailpanels or maybe 6,5" mids in the sailpanels. and 6x9 in the sides of the trunk, where the stock ones are located.
and also a 10" subwoofer in a custom made box.
will this work?
can i just change the speakers?
i already have a single din instead of the monsoon.
Very thankful for your help.
I am Swedish so sorry if the grammar isn't correct.
What speakers can i use as replacement for the stock ones?
i am thinking 6,5" coaxials in the doors and sailpanels or maybe 6,5" mids in the sailpanels. and 6x9 in the sides of the trunk, where the stock ones are located.
and also a 10" subwoofer in a custom made box.
will this work?
can i just change the speakers?
i already have a single din instead of the monsoon.
Very thankful for your help.
I am Swedish so sorry if the grammar isn't correct.
01-16-2019, 10:41 AM
#2
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what kind of radio do you have now that you replaced your monsoon? are you running the factory amp or planning to bypass & add a new one? whats your budget? just a few ? other posters need to know to give you good advise. i luv my (4) alpine R 6.5 round speakers. more expensive speakers are 'FOCAL' . cheers! don't forget the dynamat behind the speakers.
01-16-2019, 10:49 AM
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I have a soundmax radio, planning on using factory amp to everything except the subwoofer.
Pretty low budget, just wants something that sounds okay.
Will the speakers fit in the factory holes/mountings?
Pretty low budget, just wants something that sounds okay.
Will the speakers fit in the factory holes/mountings?
01-16-2019, 11:41 AM
#4
Focal are outrageously expensive. If you stay away from main stream audio, kicker,Rockford fosgate etc... you'll actually find better speakers cheaper. Just because a 6.5 will fit, you have to watch depth also, some speakers have over sized magnets and will cause clearance issues. Im not %100 sure what the factory amp ohm load can handle. Ill have to find out unless someone here knows already. But your speakers cannot go below the ohm load of the amp or you'll have some issues with the amp over heating and cutting out. I'll do some digging tonight and see what i can find or again if someone else beats me to it.
01-16-2019, 11:48 AM
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Focal are outrageously expensive. If you stay away from main stream audio, kicker,Rockford fosgate etc... you'll actually find better speakers cheaper. Just because a 6.5 will fit, you have to watch depth also, some speakers have over sized magnets and will cause clearance issues. Im not %100 sure what the factory amp ohm load can handle. Ill have to find out unless someone here knows already. But your speakers cannot go below the ohm load of the amp or you'll have some issues with the amp over heating and cutting out. I'll do some digging tonight and see what i can find or again if someone else beats me to it.
01-16-2019, 12:20 PM
#6
https://www.crutchfield.com/m_399/Car-Speakers.html
there pretty spot on, so you can get a better idea of sizes.
Most svc car speakers run at 4 ohms. Just need to know what the amp pushes out @ what ohms.
You don't want speakers that take a good amount of power [rms] to reach the sweet spot. Just need something thats efficient.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...nsoon-faq.html
link above
there pretty spot on, so you can get a better idea of sizes.
Most svc car speakers run at 4 ohms. Just need to know what the amp pushes out @ what ohms.
You don't want speakers that take a good amount of power [rms] to reach the sweet spot. Just need something thats efficient.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...nsoon-faq.html
link above
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 01-17-2019 at 03:48 PM. Reason: Merge consecutive posts
01-16-2019, 01:01 PM
#7
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Whats the deepest you can have in the different mounting places?
it says 2 ohm in the sail panels what will happen if i plug in a 4 ohm speaker.
because i know having to little ohm is a problem.
it says 2 ohm in the sail panels what will happen if i plug in a 4 ohm speaker.
because i know having to little ohm is a problem.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 01-17-2019 at 03:49 PM. Reason: Merge consecutive posts
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01-16-2019, 01:24 PM
#8
Im not going into crazy detail about ohms, but basic rule of thumb- speaker impedance cannot be lower then amp. So if your speaker are 4 ohms and the channels you are using off the amp can go to 4 or even 2 , your fine. This is not complete detail as theres alot more to it, but thats just the very basic.
To get the most out of your amp, you want to try to match the impedance, if your speaker is 4 ohm and that channel your using is 2. Your not getting the full power out of it. As for mounting depth, im not %100 sure. But i know the front and sail you should be fine with almost anything unless there gigantic double stacked magnets. The rear i think is alot shallower, was on my 97 t/a. Hope that helps.
To get the most out of your amp, you want to try to match the impedance, if your speaker is 4 ohm and that channel your using is 2. Your not getting the full power out of it. As for mounting depth, im not %100 sure. But i know the front and sail you should be fine with almost anything unless there gigantic double stacked magnets. The rear i think is alot shallower, was on my 97 t/a. Hope that helps.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 01-17-2019 at 03:49 PM. Reason: Merge consecutive posts
01-17-2019, 04:02 PM
#9
As Kriptic posted, most of these questions are covered in the Monsoon FAQ sticky at the top of the forum. But to point out a few details that you should keep in mind...
The door speakers in the Camaro are not coaxial although they appear to be. They are actually component sets with the tweeter mounted in the center of the woofer. That means that there are separate audio channels in the doors for the tweeters and the woofers (i.e. two pairs of wires). You can substitute an ordinary coaxial speaker but you lose some power by eliminating one channel on each side. Also the signal is filtered from the amp so you would have to ensure you use the correct wire pair to get full sound.
The sail panel speakers are indeed 2-ohm as you found. They are also subwoofers and only get a low pass filtered signal from the amp so an ordinary speaker there will generally sound pretty bad. There are 2-ohm subwoofers available on the market but they aren't very common. You can use 4-ohm subwoofers but you lose half the power. Half the power doesn't mean that they will be half as loud - you actually lose 3dB output which is about the same as one click of the volume ****, noticeable but not a huge difference.
The hatch area speakers aren't 6x9 as they would appear from the speaker grill. They're actually 4" round. Chances are that you won't even need to replace them unless they have physical damage. They are there for rear fill only so replacing with a larger speaker will tend to throw off your sound stage with too much sound coming from behind. If you need them, 4" speakers are readily available and not expensive.
The door speakers in the Camaro are not coaxial although they appear to be. They are actually component sets with the tweeter mounted in the center of the woofer. That means that there are separate audio channels in the doors for the tweeters and the woofers (i.e. two pairs of wires). You can substitute an ordinary coaxial speaker but you lose some power by eliminating one channel on each side. Also the signal is filtered from the amp so you would have to ensure you use the correct wire pair to get full sound.
The sail panel speakers are indeed 2-ohm as you found. They are also subwoofers and only get a low pass filtered signal from the amp so an ordinary speaker there will generally sound pretty bad. There are 2-ohm subwoofers available on the market but they aren't very common. You can use 4-ohm subwoofers but you lose half the power. Half the power doesn't mean that they will be half as loud - you actually lose 3dB output which is about the same as one click of the volume ****, noticeable but not a huge difference.
The hatch area speakers aren't 6x9 as they would appear from the speaker grill. They're actually 4" round. Chances are that you won't even need to replace them unless they have physical damage. They are there for rear fill only so replacing with a larger speaker will tend to throw off your sound stage with too much sound coming from behind. If you need them, 4" speakers are readily available and not expensive.
01-18-2019, 01:22 AM
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As Kriptic posted, most of these questions are covered in the Monsoon FAQ sticky at the top of the forum. But to point out a few details that you should keep in mind...
The door speakers in the Camaro are not coaxial although they appear to be. They are actually component sets with the tweeter mounted in the center of the woofer. That means that there are separate audio channels in the doors for the tweeters and the woofers (i.e. two pairs of wires). You can substitute an ordinary coaxial speaker but you lose some power by eliminating one channel on each side. Also the signal is filtered from the amp so you would have to ensure you use the correct wire pair to get full sound.
The sail panel speakers are indeed 2-ohm as you found. They are also subwoofers and only get a low pass filtered signal from the amp so an ordinary speaker there will generally sound pretty bad. There are 2-ohm subwoofers available on the market but they aren't very common. You can use 4-ohm subwoofers but you lose half the power. Half the power doesn't mean that they will be half as loud - you actually lose 3dB output which is about the same as one click of the volume ****, noticeable but not a huge difference.
The hatch area speakers aren't 6x9 as they would appear from the speaker grill. They're actually 4" round. Chances are that you won't even need to replace them unless they have physical damage. They are there for rear fill only so replacing with a larger speaker will tend to throw off your sound stage with too much sound coming from behind. If you need them, 4" speakers are readily available and not expensive.
The door speakers in the Camaro are not coaxial although they appear to be. They are actually component sets with the tweeter mounted in the center of the woofer. That means that there are separate audio channels in the doors for the tweeters and the woofers (i.e. two pairs of wires). You can substitute an ordinary coaxial speaker but you lose some power by eliminating one channel on each side. Also the signal is filtered from the amp so you would have to ensure you use the correct wire pair to get full sound.
The sail panel speakers are indeed 2-ohm as you found. They are also subwoofers and only get a low pass filtered signal from the amp so an ordinary speaker there will generally sound pretty bad. There are 2-ohm subwoofers available on the market but they aren't very common. You can use 4-ohm subwoofers but you lose half the power. Half the power doesn't mean that they will be half as loud - you actually lose 3dB output which is about the same as one click of the volume ****, noticeable but not a huge difference.
The hatch area speakers aren't 6x9 as they would appear from the speaker grill. They're actually 4" round. Chances are that you won't even need to replace them unless they have physical damage. They are there for rear fill only so replacing with a larger speaker will tend to throw off your sound stage with too much sound coming from behind. If you need them, 4" speakers are readily available and not expensive.
01-18-2019, 06:34 AM
#11
Whitebird pretty much covered everything you need to know. Now its up to you to determine what speakers you want, know that you have all the information at hand. With a 8" sub, im guessing your doing something like a subthump box or something that fits on either driver or passenger side? Just determine what .cu that box is, sealed or ported? If ported, whats the box tuned at hz wise? Pick a sub that matches the box information, if it only has .78cu sealed. Find a sub that is within that range. All that information is right on details of any subwoofer you look at on whatever website. So once you match the box and sub. Then pick an amp that is adequate to match it. Most mono class amps are 2 ohm stable, so i wouldn't worry about that. I always go with a dvc sub for more wiring options. But thats up to you obviously.
10-06-2019, 12:09 PM
#13
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I don't know what the Monsoon system sounded like when it was new, but it rivals anything I have in my late model cars, even those with dedicated subwoofers.
Highly recommend using Kee... he really knows his stuff!
These are the subs I ordered:
HD-6MSUB DVC 6.5" Subwoofers (PAIR)
PRICE: $179.98 FREE US SHIPPING
Power: 70-100watts RMS
Sensitivity: 88.7db
Cast Aluminum Frame
Layered Cone material for added bass response
Thick rubber butyl surround for added excursion
Spring loaded terminals for easy installation
Last edited by gusser; 10-06-2019 at 12:12 PM. Reason: typo
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10-06-2019, 12:46 PM
#14
On The Tree
When I got my 99 T/A it had the factory Monsoon system in it, and let me tell ya, those factory Monsoon systems F@@@@@@ rocks!!! Loud as Hell and clear as a bell! I had to replace mine because all the speakers were deteriorating and the head unit volume button was wore out,causing the stereo to cut in and out. For the first rebuild I tried to find some new Factory OEM speakers for it. but you'll find Bigfoot riding the Lock Ness monster before you'll find a complete set of brand new ones!!! I went with a Kee Audio speaker package for my car and they fit perfect. I jammed out with them for a couple of months, then I went full-bore Focal crazy with a Kenwood head unit and a couple of amps. This is the first time I've ever used Focal products, and yes they are expensive, I'm running three sets of K2's off of 6 channel Focal amp and after listening to them, they were worth every penny