Instigator

iTrader: (4)

Per Houston F-Body with some notes that apply to the wiring diagrams.
1999 Trans Am. I replaced the door speakers with some 6.5S Kenwood
components and the sails (back seat) with 6.5S Kenwood 3-Ways. HU is a
JVC 50wp/19wrms x4. Kicker 10" w/amp already in rear running off of HU
sub-outs. The speakers in the hatch (4" and tweeters) have been removed.

I used a plastic coated coat hanger (of all things) to make the jumpers for
the Monsoon plug. The lengths varied from 3"-4" and I stripped the coating
back 7/16".


E1 Dark Green 117 Right Front input -
E2 Grey 118 Left Front input -
E3 Tan 201 Left Front input +
E4 Dark Blue 46 Right Rear input +
E5 Light Blue 115 Right Rear input -
E6 Yellow 116 Left Rear input -
E7 Brown 199 Left Rear input +
E8 Black 650 Ground
E9 Black 650 Ground
E10 Unused Unused Unused
E11 Orange 1040 Fused battery feed
E12 Orange 1040 Fused battery feed
E13 White 1959 Left Subwoofer Coil 1 + "long" wires-extended range
E14 Yellow 1956 Left Subwoofer Coil 1 - "long" wires-extended range
E15 Dark Blue 1857 Left Front speaker +
E16 Light Blue 1957 Left Front speaker -

F1 Light Green 200 Right Front input +
F2 Tan 1855 Right Subwoofer Coil 1 + "long" wires-extended range
F3 Red 1955 Right Subwoofer Coil 1 - "long" wires-extended range
F4 Light Blue / Black 315 Right Subwoofer Coil 2 - "short"-sub
F5 Dark Green 1795 Right Subwoofer Coil 2 + "short"-sub
F6 Dark Green 1953 Right Front speaker -
F7 Orange 1853 Right Front speaker +
F8 Unused Unused Unused
F9 Unused Unused Unused
F10 Light Green / Black 1794 Left Subwoofer Coil 2 - "short"-sub
F11 Dark Blue / White 346 Left Subwoofer Coil 2 + "short"-sub
F12 Unused Unused Unused
F13 Grey 1954 Right Rear speaker - 4" in hatch
F14 White 1854 Right Rear speaker + 4" in hatch
F15 Red 1858 Left Rear speaker + 4" in hatch
F16 Purple 1958 Left Rear speaker - 4" in hatch

My jumpers are...

E1-F6 RF -
F1-F7 RF+
E2-E16 LF+
E3-E15 LF-
E4-F2 RR+
E5-F3 RR-
E6-E14 LR-
E7-E13 LR+

Turn your radio down before you start to avoid hurting anything. Good luck!

JDubs

Before you start stripping, cutting, etc!

This wiring harnes (like most) can be easily disassembled wire by wire. Take off the blue and gray retainers, stick a very small (watch/glasses) screwdriver in the "plug in" end to release the clip, and that individual wire comes out. Very simple to do and everything stays stock and uncut.

When you have the wires you need removed, tape/solder the corresponding ones together, and plug the harness with the remaining wires back in.

JDubs

As referenced above...

GPz1100

JDubs, your suggest is possible as well, however will one be able to remember where the pins go back in should reassembly be necessary (such as when selling the car).

I still think using jumpers is the best alternative. It's the least destructive.

JDubs

Tape the color code (as linked above) to the amp. Pin position is labeled well. A couple colors repeat... just tape a label indicating pin position to these.

The problem with the jumpers, IMHO, is that you are adding the amps together rather than eliminating the Monsoon (the pins are STILL plugged into the Monsoon). Maybe y'all haven't had problems, but in my book thats a big no-no.

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

ok iwas just reading this haven't ever seen this post ok im still using the stock monsoon HU and i did hook up some alpine sps170a but they did not sound as good as the monsoons bc they were running off the amp so can i run a wire from the HU to each of the door panel speakers so that they will wake up and actually run on all 4 ohms? and not off the amp where its like half its power??

Mike02Z

iTrader: (13)

I think I understand this pretty well know. For my Camaro I will connect..

Right Front
F1--->F7
E1--->F6

Left Front
E3--->E15
E2--->E16

Right Rear
E4--->F14
E5--->F13

Left Rear
E7--->F15
E6--->F16

Will this now send a full range signal to my front and rear speakers? Can I now only connect

Right front speaker wires
Orange +
Dark Green -

Left front speaker wires
Dark Blue +
Light Blue -

Right rear speaker wires
Tan +
Red -

Left rear speaker wires
Tan +
White -

Or will I still need to deal with the other set of wires going to the front tweeters?

I understand I will lose the two crap subs in the back but will the full range signal now go to all 4 other speakers? What will the power to the speakers be roughly? I plan on buying 4 of the Infinity Kappa 62.7 speakers. Later on a plan on adding one of the JL Audio Clean Sweeps or perhaps the Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.1 and some decent Amps and Subs but will this get me by? I do not want to replace the factory HU for a number of reasons but the biggest being I hate the way all other aftermarket radios pertrude from the dash and most are too small and have those nasty filler adapters.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Huh? If you unplug the harness from the Monsoon amp and put on jumpers to connect input wires to the corresponding output wires, how is the amp still in the circuit?

I agree that re-pinning a connector has its place sometimes. In fact, there are times when buying the plastic connectors and making a short connecting harness to pull out the circuits you need is the best way to modify factory wiring. However, in this case the connections are all on one side of the connector so the jumper method is simple, effective, and the best way to make the changes easily reversible.

JDubs

People were talking about jumping some and using the Monsoon amp to continue to do the rest. This implies that its plugged in. Thats all I was saying.

If you are going tho plug it back in, it needs the pins you want pulled out.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Yes, you're right. If you were to plug the connector back into the amp then you would have to remove the pins that were being bypassed. But, if you're installing wire jumpers into the connector and taping them in place then it would be very difficult to plug the connector back into the amp.

JDubs

Not to be argumentative... hopefully this is helping others who want to do this.

It is very easy to plug jumpers into the BACK of the plug making it plug in completely normal. IMO, its actually easier to plug jumpers in the back side.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Yes, but then you get back to jumping some connections while leaving others for the amp. As you said, this is not a good idea. If you're going to bypass the amp then bypass it completely - don't mix and match.

Mike02Z

iTrader: (13)

Good information here can this be added to the Monsoon FAQ sticky?

jlarsen

will these same color codes match up for my 97 also? getting ready to do this and I was just going to pull the speakers and look at the colors of the wire. thanks.

jlarsen

ttt please

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Yes, all Monsoon systems 97-02 use the connections listed in the Monsoon FAQ (coupe is different from convertible but both are listed).

Clemsontigz99Ls1

I love this damn website!!

Raleigh TA

iTrader: (13)

Excuse the stereo dummy here, but if I bypass the amp, do I still have to use the 4 ohm speakers, or can I use the more common 8 ohm ones? Or am I totally off-base?

Also, I have an XM that I am running via RF modulator, and would prefer to plug in to HU. My HU has no AUX button on the face, so should I assume it has no jack in the back and thus no way to access the XM other than the RF modulator?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

8-ohm speakers haven't been common in car audio systems for quite a few years. You will find most quality speakers are 4-ohm.

Don't bypass the Monsoon amp unless you have a very good reason to do so. Merely upgrading or replacing speakers is not a really good reason. Check out the other threads on the subject. Unless you change your head unit and want to run the speakers directly from it (no external amp) using the factory wiring, there really isn't any reason to bypass the amp.

On a T/A, the button is labeled CD/Play rather than AUX. However, unless you have a cassette head unit, your 98 won't be able to use the adapter. Prior to late 99, the CD head unit wasn't capable of controlling the external CD changer so the adapter wouldn't work.

arapitis

iTrader: (1)

you know. instead of doing all of this. why dont you just get an amp for the new speakers then run new speaker wires from the amp to the new speakers. leave all of the stock stuff (except for speakers of course) in place and you can convert back any time. thats what i did and its extremely easy. you just have to buy an amp