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Easy Monsoon Amplifier Bypass Wiring
04-01-2007, 11:05 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by arapitis
you know. instead of doing all of this. why dont you just get an amp for the new speakers then run new speaker wires from the amp to the new speakers. leave all of the stock stuff (except for speakers of course) in place and you can convert back any time. thats what i did and its extremely easy. you just have to buy an amp
06-03-2010, 02:25 AM
#42
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HI,Sounds Good. If you are by passing the Head Unit (which i assume is the amp) by connecting in & out speakers directly, how do the speakers get power? was that a dumb question?
My Plan for the Monsoon is to splice into the head unit to the rear seat "crappy bass speakers" wires, hook up an "inline booster" ("STINGER" line output converter) here, that would then run to my amp & "BOOM BOX" bass speakers. That should work i am told. If the "crappy" stock bass speabers interfere at all, i would then dead end them. What I would like to know is can i replace the other 4 sets (2 ea per set [1 tweeter, 1 mid-range] with better speakers? at least maybe the 4 mid-rangers. One would need to know what wattage & ohm these mid-ranges are rated and/or what this "strange" monsoon is putting out to them. As most i like the steering wheel controls etc. & do not want a different stereo & amp. So far, thanks alot for the wiring diagram. At least now i can tap in there (without ripping panels out) for the in line converter.
thanks,
brian.
plse. send reply to brian.turbo@hotmail.com
p.s. on fbodys w/ CD CHANGER the head unit is located behind the cd changer in trunk driver side.
Do you have the exact site address for the wiring diagram. The link just took me to several unrelated possibillities. My T/A is a 2001. I have schematic for a 97 or 98, are they the same as 2001?
Thanks Guys.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 06-03-2010 at 07:26 AM. Reason: Merge consecutive posts
06-03-2010, 07:54 AM
#43
My Plan for the Monsoon is to splice into the head unit to the rear seat "crappy bass speakers" wires, hook up an "inline booster" ("STINGER" line output converter) here, that would then run to my amp & "BOOM BOX" bass speakers. That should work i am told. If the "crappy" stock bass speabers interfere at all, i would then dead end them. What I would like to know is can i replace the other 4 sets (2 ea per set [1 tweeter, 1 mid-range] with better speakers? at least maybe the 4 mid-rangers. One would need to know what wattage & ohm these mid-ranges are rated and/or what this "strange" monsoon is putting out to them. As most i like the steering wheel controls etc. & do not want a different stereo & amp. So far, thanks alot for the wiring diagram. At least now i can tap in there (without ripping panels out) for the in line converter.
thanks,
brian.
thanks,
brian.
p.s. on fbodys w/ CD CHANGER the head unit is located behind the cd changer in trunk driver side.
Do you have the exact site address for the wiring diagram. The link just took me to several unrelated possibillities. My T/A is a 2001. I have schematic for a 97 or 98, are they the same as 2001?
Thanks Guys.
Do you have the exact site address for the wiring diagram. The link just took me to several unrelated possibillities. My T/A is a 2001. I have schematic for a 97 or 98, are they the same as 2001?
Thanks Guys.
Again, this is all covered in the Monsoon FAQ sticky - including a photo of the amp location and the pinout schematics for the head unit and amp. The schematics for Monsoon systems don't change for different years but they are different between Firebird and Camaro as well as between coupe and convertible.
01-23-2011, 07:49 PM
#44
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Monsoon Speaker replacement Ok so what i have is an 1999 Transam with the Monsoon stereo system ... what im attempting to do is replace all the 6.5s of which there are 4 ... the new speakers i purchased are kenwood 3-way 6.5s ... the door installation went fine and sound great but the rear stock speakers turned out to be Dual voice coil speakers and the new 3-ways are single voice coil ... what i need to do is figure out the correct way to manipulate the stock wiring harness to accept the new 3-way 6.5s and produce the 3-way sound ... when i try to leave 2 wires on each speaker off or unhooked i only get a low sound ... no mid or high ... what can i do??? pls help...
01-23-2011, 08:28 PM
#45
Let me see... how many times in this thread did we say "please read the Monsoon FAQ sticky"?
The sail panel speakers in Firebirds are dual voice coil subs and they get only low pass filtered signal from the amp. That is why you get only bass regardless of what type of speaker you connect. You can't change that without rewiring the speakers.
The sail panel speakers in Firebirds are dual voice coil subs and they get only low pass filtered signal from the amp. That is why you get only bass regardless of what type of speaker you connect. You can't change that without rewiring the speakers.
01-23-2011, 08:46 PM
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yeah i am new to the forum and actually just read that after i posted which was an eye opener ... so i also read that someone hooked up the 3-way speakers to the rear 4" speaker hookups ... so i hooked up some 5-way 6x9s to see how they would sound and the result was terrible ... also when i turn up the volume on the door speakers which are kenwood 3-way 90w 6.5s ... 35w rms they sound terrible aswell ... i appreciate the help in this matter pls excuse the ignorance
01-23-2011, 08:56 PM
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well i was actually trying to use the speakers i already have ... are you aware if its possible to get a good quality sound out of kenwood speakers using the monsoon amp? i was thinking the wiring harness might be able to be manipulated but im unsure... ive read where others have attempted this but who knows ... do u have an idea why the door speakers might be sounding so terrible at high volume? and it seems like the bass is completely distorted...
01-23-2011, 09:00 PM
#49
There are two pairs of wires in the doors because the door speakers are components. You may have connected the tweeter wires to your Kenwoods - they have an inline high-pass filter and are powered by the head unit rather than the amp. Try the other pair of wires and see if that makes a difference.
01-23-2011, 09:10 PM
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ok ill try that ... is 35w rms powerful enough to accept the amp input? i think the HU is 50w x 4? also i replaced the original 2 ohm with a 4 ohm ... not sure if that has anything to do with it...
02-04-2011, 07:06 PM
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one thing i always hated was when I bought a used car and the wires where cut to add a new radio to it rather then buy the correct adapter plug for it. Just my 2 cents
03-24-2011, 03:29 AM
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monsoons sucks ill sum it up the back speakers are 4" subs very lame and ineffective and no matter what kind of speaker you hook up to the wires its still gona get a low pass (bass frequencys). the b-pillars are 6 1/2 inch speakers both are hooked up to the monsoon amp. honestly i would just cut the connector and solder the wires if your gona use factory wires. the monsoon amp is garbage you'd be doing yourself a favor as well as any people that buy it after you i dont know why you'd ever wana put it back. the internal amp in just about any aftermarket headunit is better. if you need more power buy one of the inline plug in amp like the alpine one ktp-445 if you need even more power buy a regular amp and run more wires cause i probably wouldnt push the factory cheesy ones too far. as far as the back speakers nothing should need to go back there except subs and any single aftermarket sub i can think of will out perform all the speakers they put back there combined and can easily be hidden. ive been working with speakers a long time so these may just be my oppinions to some but ive been through trial and error (well other peoples error) to learn this and school
03-24-2011, 07:12 AM
#55
ill sum it up the back speakers are 4" subs very lame and ineffective and no matter what kind of speaker you hook up to the wires its still gona get a low pass (bass frequencys). the b-pillars are 6 1/2 inch speakers both are hooked up to the monsoon amp. honestly i would just cut the connector and solder the wires if your gona use factory wires. the monsoon amp is garbage you'd be doing yourself a favor as well as any people that buy it after you i dont know why you'd ever wana put it back. the internal amp in just about any aftermarket headunit is better. if you need more power buy one of the inline plug in amp like the alpine one ktp-445 if you need even more power buy a regular amp and run more wires cause i probably wouldnt push the factory cheesy ones too far. as far as the back speakers nothing should need to go back there except subs and any single aftermarket sub i can think of will out perform all the speakers they put back there combined and can easily be hidden. ive been working with speakers a long time so these may just be my oppinions to some but ive been through trial and error (well other peoples error) to learn this and school
Admittedly, the Monsoon amp is somewhat underpowered compared to what's available in the aftermarket but it produces clean amplification totaling about 240 watts RMS into eight channels. There aren't many (if any) head units that can produce that power on their own so telling someone that it's better to run a head unit alone is just silly. For someone who wants improved sound on a budget, an aftermarket head unit and the right combination of speakers connected to the Monsoon amp will produce a very good sounding system. Adding an amp and sub in the back will improve things even more if you're the type of person who wants more bass.
Obviously, you can achieve even more with a more powerful aftermarket amp but not everyone wants (or needs) to go to that expense or amount of work to get a decent sounding system.
03-24-2011, 04:37 PM
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ok i got the 2 back wards the 6.5s are sub/mid and the backs are full range. some wrong reading on my part. is is kinda dumb how they would put a sub next to someones head where they would sit though. when speakers are placed rite in the front of the car the placement of the very back ones seem dumb if not pointless which i tested with some high end speakers in the back. but still the monsoon amp sucks i would say it could put out 240 rms if it was name brand or something good but i highly doubt it would put out that much. i bet if i tested it it wouldnt put out more that 100 rms before it starts clipping and distorting. which ive seen even at the lower volumes which would cause premature failure of all the rear speakers (which i have seen plenty of times) i would be kinda interested to get a real test figure on the amp though
Last edited by scorpiansniper; 03-24-2011 at 06:17 PM.
03-24-2011, 06:50 PM
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ok i got the 2 back wards the 6.5s are sub/mid and the backs are full range. some wrong reading on my part. is is kinda dumb how they would put a sub next to someones head where they would sit though. when speakers are placed rite in the front of the car the placement of the very back ones seem dumb if not pointless which i tested with some high end speakers in the back. but still the monsoon amp sucks i would say it could put out 240 rms if it was name brand or something good but i highly doubt it would put out that much. i bet if i tested it it wouldnt put out more that 100 rms before it starts clipping and distorting. which ive seen even at the lower volumes which would cause premature failure of all the rear speakers (which i have seen plenty of times) i would be kinda interested to get a real test figure on the amp though
Not sure I am quite ready to agree with you about the monsoon amp, IMHO the stock speakers are the weak link. Replacing them is a good place to start, my sail subs blew and I replaced them with Kicker CVT 6.5's and get much cleaner sounding bass from the sails. I would think some polly fill and dynamat to the insides of the makeshift stock enclosures and they would even be better. I am about to add a L7 and ZX500.1 in the cubby, so I will be able to tune some of that bass out of the stock speakers and sail subs and I imagine it will sound pretty decent. Then I plan to attack the rest of the stock speakers systematically.
03-24-2011, 09:27 PM
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ok maybe the word garbage is a little harsh but im just saying when they make stuff to go in a oem car they make it to a price standard and its not really made to perform excellent it just made to work. the paper cone speakers are a perfect example. that little tiny monsoon may hit 240rms but it just hard for me to believe consider the size of the amps professional companies use to hit that mark. and as for the 500 claim id be shocked to see that with all the speakers playing the perfect note at there peak moment at the rite volume.
03-25-2011, 07:16 AM
#59
Actually, the factory head unit is the distortion producing machine. It starts to clip before reaching half volume. The amp just passes that on to the cheap speakers. Simply replacing the HU will make a noticeable difference in distortion and speaker life.
03-25-2011, 04:30 PM
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lol to the lightning strike. yeah i could agree with that i didnt really think of the fact the amp is getting a high imput too instead of a low input like a regular amp. to add to that ive never replaced a headunit and didnt hear a quality increase even when using the really crappy stuff.